Friday, September 30, 2016

Germany Trip Report , Days 1-5: Schwäbisch Hall, Frankfurt

We had a lovely trip to Germany Sep 27, 2015-Oct 11, 2015. 

When we plan our trip to any country we look for the highlights of that country… as in this map for Germany for instance.



However, for this trip we had our constraints because it was Son’s 2 week official trip with return ticket Houston-Frankfurt; training Bases were Waldenburg (Schwäbisch Hall, Sep 28-Oct 2), Hengelo, Netherlands (Oct 5), Pulheim (Oct 6), Weimar (Oct 7-8). Thankfully the return flight was on 11th, Sunday. All transfers were by road by the transport company arranged by the office.

Now the challenge was for me to join at a convenient time and to choose some interesting spots to cover given this official plan.

WHAT TO INCLUDE:

Germany has a wealth of castles, historic spots and natural beauty. Other than the cars and engineering Germany is justifiably famous for, there is plenty of top notch wood craft, miniature work, apart from the cuckoo clocks and weather houses. We wanted to sample some of these. We could not hire a car because of logistic constraints but there is a pretty good railway system covering the country and we managed to pull off a memorable holiday.


The map above shows our bases (4 blue arrows and the lone black arrow)... 1st one, Waldenberg is indicated by a blue dot and blue letters Wa

Our itinerary:

 Our final itinerary played out as follows:

Sep 27-Oct 2: Son enjoyed the medieval town of Schwäbisch Hall in the evenings after training hours


Oct 2, Friday, 2015: I flew in to Frankfurt on Oct 2nd and son joined me that night taking 3 trains from Waldenburg. Staying at an airport hotel at Frankfurt was a logical choice.

Oct 3, Saturday, 2015: The scenic mid Rhine valley… UNESCO Heritage site…fortunately for us there was a winefest that day in Boppard with fireworks at 9 pm for 15 min…it was a GREAT day!
It included a train trip from Frankfurt flughafen to Bingen, Walk through Bingen, then scenic cruise to St Goar enjoying several castles perched high up slopes green with plantations, ferry to Goarhausen, regional train to Braubach, hike up to Marksburg Castle and a German tour of its interior, train to Koblenz and transfer south to Boppard. There were live bands and a festive atmosphere in Boppard culminating in spectacular fireworks.

Oct 4, Sunday, 2015: We enjoyed the lovely medieval village of St Goar, hiked up to Rheinfels castle St Goar before catching our train to Cologne. Son took 2 trains to reach HengeloNetherlands while I stayed put in Cologne

Oct 5, Monday, 2015: Lovely visit to the Köln Dom (UNESCO heritage site), attending mass at the reliquary altar, then a stroll through the picturesque altstadt (old town), after booking the 4pm English tour at the Fragrance museum Farina House, creator of the original Eau de Cologne. When son returned in the evening, tour of the same places with him

Oct 6, Tuesday, 2015: Transfer to Pulheim in the early morning by train, then transfer to Weimar in the evening… through lovely German country side in a steady drizzle.

Oct 7, Wednesday, 2015: Stroll through Classic Weimar, again UNESCO heritage site (What Stratford-upon-Avon is to Shakespeare, Weimar is to Goethe and Schiller)

Oct 8, Thursday, 2015: We had more of classic Weimar in the early morning; training ended by afternoon
We had to return to Frankfurt for the return flight on 11th morning, it was too tight to include Munich or Berlin;
We decided to include some castles in the vicinity… Gotha (Freidenstein castle), Eisenach (Wartburg castle), Kassel (daytrip to Sababurg Sleeping beauty castle and Trendelburg Rapunzel castle)
Around noon on Oct 8, we took the train to Gotha, stayed at a heritage hotel in the castle park… managed a 3 hour visit to the lovely Freidenstein castle

Oct 9, Friday, 2015: After a stroll through the charming medieval village of Gotha, we took the train to Eisenach. We kept our bags in the station locker, took a taxi up to Wartburg castle, admired the awesome views and then took a German tour of the insides and the museum. We then took a train onward to Kassel

Oct 10, Saturday, 2015: We visited Sababurg Sleeping beauty castle and Trendelburg Rapunzel castle. In the evening, we trekked up the Berg Park in Kassel Wilhelmshohe enjoying the dense tall trees and the water cascading through the lovely architectural features. We took the 8.30 pm ICE train to Frankfurt hbf to reach Frankfurt by 10 pm

Oct 11, Sunday, 2015: We took the 6.15 am S bahn train to the flughafen and boarded our 9.50 flight.
It had been a hectic albeit very satisfying holiday and we had a great flavor of this wonderful country!

TRAINS:

The above link helped look up train timings and we bought super saver tickets for the Waldenburg-Frankfurt leg at €19; same price for the direct ICE train from Kassel to Frankfurt for our penultimate day too. We followed the golden rule mentioned by Train experts, "never travel by the last connection because that may leave one stranded". It worked …

PEOPLE:

We greeted everyone with a "Guten tak" and had some travel vocabulary in German. We received a smiling warm response through out. Germans we met up with were the warmest, friendliest lot. There were several instances when they volunteered help and made our life easy. I'm enumerating them as the report goes on.

WEATHER:

We had cool pleasant weather early October and it rained only in the nights.


Fall colors were awesome everywhere…




ARCHITECTURE:
The unique half timbered houses are a delight to watch




CRAFTS:

There were elves/pixies everywhere true to the fairy tales gifted to the world by the talented Grimm brothers… elves in medieval fountains, or in flower patches in private gardens… these gnomes seem to be really hard at work during the night producing marvels in the gardens they live!





Great miniatures:








Cute porcelain figurines:




Delicate paper art:


We always stopped at cuckoo clock displays in shop windows and enjoyed their varied actions during chiming… guy taking a shot of his beer for each chime… girls twirling etc…



Lovely weather house here.




I'm giving a report and pictures of our stay as explained above.

Days 1-5: Schwäbisch Hall:

The team was put up at Hotel Scholl, Schwäbisch Hall.

The hotel is composed of four historic houses that have been combined into one hotel over the decades. The oldest building, the Thomas Schweicker house, is a protected landmark that is more than 550 years old. The hotel is 2nd from right in the picture below.




We can see the half timbering. Half-timbering refers to a structure with a frame of load-bearing timber. Spaces between the timbers are called panels, they are filled-in generally with a mixture of clay and chalk with a binder such as grass or straw and water. The frame is often left exposed on the exterior of the building. Very charming.



 A walk around the town is interesting. The older buildings are mostly medieval, and with Timber Frame, Gothic and Baroque styles.








This is the Town hall.


This is St Michael's Church, Schwäbisch Hall; it was consecrated on 10th Feb, 1156!

The staircase is famous, plays are staged here.






Kocher river flows through the town and it's a nice walk across the bridge.








So altogether, a quiet experience with old world charm!  

Oct 2, Friday, 2015: I flew in to Frankfurt on Oct 2nd morning. Park Inn by Radisson at Frankfurt airport was a logical choice for stay as we wanted to move onward to the mid Rhine valley early next day.

Park Inn by Radisson: 


Overall experience was excellent. A few little things can be fixed for better convenience.
The website gives confusing instruction for the shuttle from the airport. Actually it's at exit 7, right on that side of the road.... I wonder why they don't have the stop along with the other shuttles a little further down. Those are marked in a sign board and this shuttle stop has no marking. I happened to see their colorful shuttle after going up and down after crossing the street and ran up to board it.The check in experience was a little weird as well...Reached the hotel at 9am on Oct 2nd, our room had already been paid for and I was going to wait for Son to join me from Waldenburg where he was on official training.

I was hoping for an early check in as airport hotels can very easily do that. The young guy at the reception told me I can check in at 3pm their usual time; if I needed early check in, I can pay another €65. I can store my bags though... When I made a repeat request for early check in, he consuIted the girl with him and she said no as well. I said we are regular customers of their airport hotel and he can check we had stayed at their Oslo hotel just 2 months ago. I asked to speak to Julianne Sturm, he went in to an inner room and came back with the welcome news that I could check in at once...

Great for me, all's well that ends well...I had remembered the name of their manager from reviews.

The room is spacious, the headboards of the bed have a touchscreen which lets the lights around the headboard change color as per our choice... quite pretty...




Excellent wifi access in the room, the reception girl helped me out with getting it. The young guy lent me a Samsung charger when mine did not fit the socket... so no hard feelings regarding the initial issue of check in. They were both polite and helpful...

The room had a lovely view of the garden, it was a pleasant stay. We booked the shuttle for 6.30 am the next day and reached the airport train station for our onward journey.

So this was a good stay for interim wait for our Rhine cruise and will be suitable for early flights as well


covers mid Rhine valley

Sunday, September 11, 2016

Norway Trip Report, Day 10: Oslo City Hall and Bygdøy Museums

July 4, 2015:

Central station, city hall, Akershus fort (Vigeland Park, Bygdoy island which we covered during the earlier part of our stay) etc can be seen in this map of Oslo attractions (Blue arrows)

As said in earlier post, we had checked in at Citybox, Oslo, 500 , from the Central station, around midnight. 


We had a loft room with skylights at Citybox... skylight open thru the night, sending in gusts of fresh air. It was fun.



We kept our small bags at the hotel after checkout and set out for the day.

Oslo Pass

We needed to get an Oslo Pass to cover the travel as well as museums for the day. It’s available at some hotels but not in ours. There was a small line at the visitor center outside the central station and we bought it there along with our supplement train ticket to the airport.

Oslo Rådhus (City Hall)

Our 1st visit was intended to be to the Oslo City Hall, where Nobel peace prize is given on December 10th every year. 

The options were: Take buss 30 towards Bygdøy from Jernbanetorget, 5 min nonstop.. Rådhuset. Walk 260 m to Radhus
Or
Buss 31 towards Fornebu from Jernbanetorget, 5 min nonstop.. Rådhuset. Walk 260 m to Radhus



 Nobel Peace Center::

We took the bus…  By mistake we entered the Nobel Peace Center


There was an exhibition. It was interesting … Imprisoned Laureates... makes one ponder...
 

Then we retraced our way to the city hall. This is Oslo rådhus (city hall) sea front facade... 




There are 6 sculptures outside...representations of building craftsmen - those who built the town hall. City hall facade.... 

This is the North side entrance to the city hall with the Astronomical Clock and the main entrance of the City Hall

Lovely wood relief ​​polychrome reliefs in wood with motifs from Edda poems. Edda... unnamed collection of Old Norse poems...








Main City Hall is 31 meters wide, 39 meters long and about 21 meters high...


Floor and part of walls are covered with marble. The room has a number of murals that give a picture of the nation and the city in the interwar period and during the occupation, and shows the development of the city's business, with the rise of the labor movement. Monarchs and the city's patron St. Hallvard are also included.




Munch room (Munch is a famous Norwegian expressionist painter):


In the short wall hangs a large painting of Edvard Munch. A special feature of the hall is that the artisans have carved their names in the southwest corner of the room. The room is elegantly furnished, partly with chairs upholstered with "Oslo-blue."

Hard Advises room


The room is located to the west up Main City Hall and has a collection of tapestries like ornate state rooms in the Middle Ages. The first tapestry depicting Harald Hardrådes fall at Stamford Bridge in England in 1066.  On the opposite side tapestries are depicting St Harald as Oslo's founder.

Banquet hall:


 On the long wall are portraits of earlier kings King Haakon VII , King Olav V , current King Harald V and Queen Sonja . On the short wall is Willi Midelfart's portrayal of seaside life along the fjord… funny story here…

In the adjacent room is a kitchen. The artist composed his work after the original plans only one door into the kitchen, but had to do part of the work again after a second door was inserted. He showed the disgust for this second door by painting a young boy pointing and sticking out his tongue!








City Council Hall:



The hall has a decor of oak and wallpaper of red wool with an ornament of three arrows embedded (from byseglet with St. Hallvard). The most striking is the tapestry ... Oslo patron St. Hallvard on throne surrounded by the seven virtues of life.  The artist's wish was that this design should remind city politicians about ethics and good governance practice in the decisions that were made. City Council hall has the semicircular shape incorporated for democratic assembly halls. Nobel peace prize is given here on Dec 10 in this well recognised hall...


Nobel prizes

The Nobel prizes are awarded in Stockholm, Sweden, except for the peace prize which is  given in Oslo.

Some interesting facts about Alfred Nobel (1833-1896) who instituted the Nobel prizes. He was born in Stockholm to a chemist, did not have formal secondary education. Was a scientist/chemist, invented explosives, trinitroglycerine and named it Dynamite. Owned 90 armament factories. Did not marry and had no kids. When his brother died in 1888, the newspapers mistakenly wrote an obituary for Alfred Nobel..."The Merchant of Death is dead... Dr. Alfred Nobel, who became rich by finding ways to kill more people faster than ever before, died yesterday." Alfred Nobel was upset this is perceived as his legacy, wrote a will leaving all his fortune to giving annual awards for scientific research. This converted to £1,687,837 (GBP) at the time. In 2012, the capital was worth around SEK 3.1 billion (USD 472 million, EUR 337 million),

Each recipient, or laureate, receives a gold medal, a diploma and a sum of money, which is decided by the Nobel Foundation. As of 2012, each prize was worth 8 million SEK (c. US$1.2 million, €0.93 million).



Nobel prize medals...All medals made before 1980 were in 23 carat gold. Later they are in 18 carat green gold plated with 24 carat gold. Weight 175 grams (0.386 lb) for each medal. The diameter is 66 millimetres (2.6 in) and the thickness 5.2 millimetres (0.20 in) and 2.4 millimetres (0.094 in). Each medal features an image of Alfred Nobel in left profile on the obverse. The image on the reverse of a medal varies according to the institution awarding the prize. The reverse sides of the medals for chemistry and physics share the same design

This is a lovely Applique work depicting the myriad facets of Oslo…Akershus fort, fjord, boats...






Gifts from ambassadors of other countries...







Walked to the bus stop right in front.


Nice statues in the park...



Bygdøy:

Caught buss 30 direction Bygdøy.

Located on a peninsula just four miles west of Oslo, Bygdøy - easily accessible by public transport (bus and ferry) - is home to many of the city's best tourist attractions. It's rich in cultural attractions as well as beautiful parks, forests and beaches.

Fram museum is located at Bygdøy, a short distance from the center of Oslo and is easily reached by bus or, in the summer season, by ferry from the City Hall quayside.

 Closest neighbours are the Kon-Tiki Museum and the Norwegian Maritime Museum. The Viking Ship Museum and the Norwegian Folk Museum are within 15 minutes walk. The Bygdøy peninsula is therefore popularly known as the museum peninsula.



We had been to Norsk Folkemuseum on our earlier part of the trip. We were covering the others today;  got down at the entrance of Kon-Tiki Museum (Norwegian: Kon-Tiki Museet).

Kon-Tiki Museum: 





Kon-Tiki Museum houses original vessels and artifacts from the expeditions of Thor Heyerdahl, a famous scientist. His recreations of prehistoric voyages showed that early man had mastered sailing before the saddle and wheel.

The museum houses the Kon-Tiki, a raft of balsa wood of pre-Columbian model Heyerdahl used to sail from Peru to Polynesia in 1947. The raft was named Kon-Tiki after the Inca god, Viracocha, for whom "Kon-Tiki" was an old name. 



freshly caught fish waiting to be prepared into food...covered living quarters...



This is a model of Kon-Tiki...


Heyerdahl and a small team went to Peru, constructed the raft out of balsa logs and other native materials in an indigenous style as recorded in illustrations by Spanish conquistadores.  Heyerdahl and five companions sailed the raft for 101 days over 6900 km (4,300 miles) across the Pacific Ocean before smashing into a reef at Raroia in the Tuamotu Islands on August 7, 1947. The crew made successful landfall and all returned safely.
 

This is the man himself...Thor Heyerdahl.



We can see the original Kon-Tiki raft, the reed boat Ra II, an exhibition about the Tigris and an Easter Island exhibition that includes a 10-m replica of a statue from Easter Island.

 Another boat in the museum is the Ra II a vessel built of reeds according to Heyerdahl perception of an ancient Egyptian seagoing boat. Heyerdahl sailed the Ra II from North Africa to the Caribbean after a previous attempt with the reed boat Ra failed.




 Fram Museum:

We walked to the The Fram Museum.


Norway is an Arctic nation. More than 40 % of its territory lies north of the Arctic Circle. It is natural that Norway has participated on many important expeditions to both the Arctic and the Antarctic.



The Fram Museum contains exhibitions of the most famous voyages. The centerpiece of the museum is the world´s strongest wooden ship, the polar ship Fram. We can go on board and take a look around in her cabins, lounges, cargo hold and engine room.

 The Polar Ship Fram


The Fram was the first ship specially built in Norway for polar research. She was used on three important expeditions: with Fridtjof Nansen on a drift over the Arctic Ocean 1893-96, with Otto Sverdrup to the arctic archipelago west of Greenland – now the Nunavut region of Canada – 1898-1902, and with Roald Amundsen to Antarctica for his South Pole expedition 1910-12.



THE FIRST FRAM EXPEDITION (1893-1896): Forcing ships through the arctic ice to reach the North Pole had been tried and had failed many times already. Nansen conceived the plan of building a ship that could withstand the crushing pressures of the pack ice in the Arctic Ocean, for several years. With such a ship he could drift with and thereby prove the theory of the east west ocean current, and at the same time hopefully drift over or very near to the North Pole.

On June 24th 1893 the Fram set out on her first expedition... they ran into ice and could not get as close to the north pole as they had hoped. But they did collect a lot of data and FRAM withstood crushing ice and returned unharmed in 3 years.

2nd FRAM Expedition 1899—1902:  200 000 km² of unknown land were surveyed in the arctic archipelago west of Greenland – now the Nunavut region of Canada. The land was “claimed in the name of the King of Norway” by Sverdrup. However, the Norwegian government neglected to follow this up. In 1925 Canada proclaimed the sector principle, ie that all land lying between Canada’s east and west borders and the North Pole belonged to Canada, and the area discovered by Sverdrup’s expedition became Canadian without official protests from Norway. In 1930, just before Sverdrup died, he was granted a sum of money from the Canadian government for his scientific work and mapping during the Fram Expedition.

The scientific results were sensational... Thousands of plant samples, 2000 glass containers of smaller animals, rock and fossil varieties, data about ice, temperature, earth´s magnetism, and other scientific fields

The Third Fram Expedition (1910-1914): Roald Amundsen had plans of drifting across the Arctic Ocean, sail through the Bering Strait, it would give him a better starting point and improve his chances of getting closer to the North Pole.

In the meantime, American explorer Peary´s claim to have reached the North Pole on 6 April 1909 was announced. This news fired Amundsen with a desire to make a bid for the South Pole as he would in any case have to sail a long way south in order to round Cape Horn and then sail north to the Bering Strait.

He took great pains to keep his decision a secret, even from his crew. The Fram’s voyage south took four months, the men adjusted equipment and got to know the dogs. The 97 original dogs had become 116 before they reached the Bay of Whales on 14 January 1911. however with food scarcity, dogs had to be killed to feed other dogs and the number dwindled to 17.

Amundsen and 4 companions, with the 17 remaining dogs, reached the South Pole on 14 Dec 1911. Spent 3 days in the area, taking measurements and circling the Pole with ski trips

There had been a rival party headed by Britain’s Scott to reach the South Pole.  Scott´s party of five reached the Pole on 17 Jan 1912 to find the Norwegian flag firmly planted in the snow. Scott and his companions perished on the return journey, dying of cold and starvation only a few miles from a depot – the so-called One-Ton-Camp – stocked with fuel and provisions.

Amundsen and his men arrived back at Framheim on 26 January with two sledges and 11 dogs after a total absence of 99 days and traveled distance of 3000 km...

 Today, FRAM occupies a unique position in the history of exploration, being the ship with the record of sailing both furthest north and furthest south of any.

It’s great to read of these exploits and see the ship involved...clambering onto it and seeing all the cabins.



 Terrific miniatures capturing the event...



The cloaks used by the explorers...




A lovely wood box belonging to one of them...all personal effects can be seen including their logs, Bible etc...


A polar bear rug in one of the cabins...



The all important tools and ammunition...


We moved out…saw these Sea front statues... the explorers we had read about just now... Roald Amundsen and co, team who were the first to reach the South Pole.


There were lots of locals relaxing in the weekend at the picturesque Bygdøy peninsula


This is a War memorial to Norwegian sailors.



We went to the Norwegian Maritime Museum.

 Norwegian Maritime Museum:


It’s the Museum for ship building, shipping, fishing and marine archaeology where we can see exhibitions, boat models and marine paintings.

Norway's oldest boat, Stokkebåten, is also exhibited at the museum.
 

Fishing village model... men cutting their catch of fish... fish laid out on the ground and cut pieces in the baskets. Cod fish drying on wood stands









This is the model of an oil rig...


Then we went on to the Viking Ship Museum.

 Viking Ship Museum:



This museum houses 4 ship burials from Oslo fjord area …these are 9th century ships which had been used for burial of wealthy patrons after their sailing days were over.

A ship burial or boat grave is a burial in which a ship or boat is used either as a container for the dead and the grave goods, or as a part of the grave goods itself.

The Oseberg ship (Norwegian: Osebergskipet) is a well-preserved Viking ship discovered in a large burial mound at the Oseberg farm near Tønsberg in Vestfold county, Norway



It contained numerous grave goods and two female human skeletons. The ship's interment into its burial mound dates from 834 AD, but parts of the ship date from around 800, and the ship itself is thought to be older. It was excavated in 1904-1905.

This ship is one of the finest finds to have survived the Viking Age.



Oseberg ship is built almost entirely of oak. It is 21.58 m long and 5.10 m broad, with a mast of approximately 9–10 m. With a sail of c. 90 m², the ship could achieve a speed up to 10 knots. The ship has 15 pairs of oar holes, which means that 30 people could row the ship. Other fittings include a broad steering oar, iron anchor, gangplank, and a bailer.

The bow and stern of the ship are elaborately decorated with complex woodcarvings

The Viking Age display includes sledges, beds, a horse cart, wood carving, tent components, buckets and other grave goods.

The opulence of the burial rite and the grave-goods in this burial ship suggests that this was a burial of very high status. One woman wore a very fine red wool dress with a lozenge twill pattern (a luxury commodity) and a fine white linen veil in a gauze weave, while the other wore a plainer blue wool dress with a wool veil, possibly showing some stratification in their social status...

Dendrochronological analysis of timbers in the grave chamber dates the burial to the autumn of 834.  It has been suggested that she is Queen Åsa of the Yngling clan, mother of Halfdan the Black and grandmother of Harald Fairhair.

There were also the skeletal remains of 14 horses, an ox, and three dogs found on the ship.. .a great number of everyday items and artifacts were found during the 1904-1905 excavations.

These included four elaborately decorated sleighs, a richly carved four-wheel wooden cart, bed-posts, and wooden chests, as well as the so-called "Buddha bucket" (Buddha-bøtte), a brass and cloisonné enamel ornament

The Gokstad ship 890 AD, is constructed largely of oak. The ship was intended for warfare, trade, transportation of people and cargo.



The ship is 23.80 m (78.1 ft) long and 5.10 m (16.7 ft) wide. It is the largest in the Viking Ship Museum. The skeleton of a male aged between 50–70 years was recovered. The skeleton was found in a bed inside a timber-built burial chamber

The grave was furnished with grave goods. Apart from the ship itself, there were three small boats, a tent, a sledge and riding equipment. It is believed that the mound was plundered in ancient times. The excavation in 1880 showed that valuables of gold and silver had been removed. In the Viking period, weapons were considered an important part of a man's grave goods. In the case of the Gokstad ship, any such weapons were probably taken by grave robbers.




We took the ferry back to mainland. 


Passed by Oslo city sight seeing train…...


We entered the Akershus Fortress, Akershus Slott og Festning www.forsvarsbygg.no  great views. The interior has closed by 4pm but roaming around in the fortress is free and the gates are open from 6 am until late in the evening; The museums only from 10-16.











So with our Oslo pass we had seen a number of great museums and were pretty pleased with our day.


 This is the Central station.




Always great to pose with a troll.


We went back to our hotel, had our food at the comfortable picnic area they have provided with a microwave oven, fridge, sink etc.

With the Oslo pass only a supplement of 60 nok is needed to reach the airport. We had bought it when we got the pass in the morning. We went to the train station; our options to reach the airport Oslo Lufthavn, cheapest NSB local/regional trains: Eidsvoll at 24, 54 past hour, Lillehammer 34 min past hour.


 Tickets have to be validated by reading machines at entrance to platforms. We did so, boarded our train and reached the airport Gardermoen.

Walked through the covered walkway in Gardermoen leading to Park Inn by Radisson, Gardermoen just 500 m from Oslo airport Gardermoen.






We flew back home at 6.30 am on July 5th. That brings me to the end of this report!


is the beginning of the report of our Germany trip