Brazil/Argentina Trip Report, Day 6: Devil's Throat and Arrechea falls trail

DAY 6 April 1, 2012

Parque Nacional Iguazu ARGENTINA:

We had an easier time commuting to the National Park in Argentina as we didn't need exchange. Rain was pelting down as we left our hotel; despite our poncho the wind was drenching us. We hopped on to the bus that took us to the Brazilian border, got the passport stamped and got into the Argentine bus. 

This one bus took us all the way to the terminal—we have fond memories of the kind Argentinian driver as he was extra nice to us. When we got down at the border for stamping of our passports, we requested him to please wait for us in our broken Spanish..."por favor, esparar um minuto" He smiled and said cincu minuto. We dashed for our stamp, the driver even came down from the bus and helped us put our day packs through the luggage scanner. We climbed back into the bus and he dropped us all the way to the Puerto Iguazu bus terminal saving us time and money. He gave us a warm handshake and smile as he sped off!!

We reached the park. As the day began wet, raincoats sold like hot cakes--just 7R$

At the souvenir shop here...

We were on the train to the last station GARGANTA DEL DIABLO.

We had done the blue (circuito inferior) and red (circuito superior) trails as well as the yellow San Martin island trek the previous day...

 we did the top orange one... Devil's Throat and the bottom left Sendero Macuco that day,,,

 The name Iguassu originates from the Tupi or Guarani language, and means “big water”.

 There is a nice legend associated with the falls.

The Legend of the Iguassu Falls:

The region where Iguassu Falls is located today was called Valley of the Butterflies, belonging to the territory known as Mba´e-vera-guassu (Golden Brightness).

 In the Valley of the Butterflies lived Naipi, the virgin daughter of Igobi, the chief of the tribe of the Guaranies (or maybe the Caigangues). She was so beautiful that the river waters stopped when she looked at herself in them.

 She was chosen to be the bride of M´Boy, a God who often took the form of a snake as he desired her. No human being could now even look at the promised girl; however, Tarobá, a brave warrior, broke the taboo. He spoke to her and she answered. They decided to run away together to escape the marriage.

On the day of the wedding, the Indians drank too much of the cauim (a native alcoholic beverage made from fermented corn) and slept in a stupor. Tarobá and Naipi wasted no time and escaped on the Iguassu river in a canoe.

But M´Boy noticed the escape and thrashed around in anger.  His thrashing opened a gigantic crack in the earth causing the river to fall down the gorge created

Tarobah and Naipi disappeared in the tumultuous waters. The snake god lay in wait for them to end up in his underground cave.

The Iguassu River was now going down the new gorge as waterfalls and began its eternal fall into the abyss formed by the earthquake. However, The lovers were not caught by the snake awaiting them at the bottom cave...their love was too great....

Tarobá was transformed into a lonely palm tree on the edge of an abyss over the Devil's Gorge, and Naipi into a big rock over which the raging water of the river falls into the canyon... which can be seen to this day....

The vengeful snake God is still awaiting his victims in the underground cave wondering what's taking them so long!

When the sun is in the right position, a rainbow can be seen touching the tree and the rock; it is Naipi´s love veil eternally caressing her lover, Tarobá

And yes, we did see numerous lovely rainbows connecting the star crossed eternal lovers! They were AWESOME!!

GARGANTA DEL DIABLO (Devil's throat):

The tour to reach the lookout balcony of the majestic Devil’s Throat allows us to approach a few meters from the most important and mighty waterfall of the Iguazu Falls. The itinerary begins about 1,100 meters before the monumental fall, after getting off the Ecological Jungle Train at Devil’s Throat Station.

The gangway leading to the balcony that faces the waterfall is just over a kilometer in length. The balcony, gives us a magical moment, staring at a huge wall of water over 80 meters high, located on the border of Argentina and the sister Republic of Brazil.

The rain had mercifully stopped; there was a slight drizzle and along with the spray from the GARGANTA DEL DIABLO, we needed our ponchos.

There is awesome ambience--the volume of water is so huge, there is a permanent mist of 100ft. It was a challenge to use the camera without damaging it due to the spray.

 There seems to be a headless guy in the left...ha, ha..

The folding system of gangways was designed to preserve them from being damaged due to an increase in the flow of Iguazu River. In normal circumstances, when the river is low, the railings are raised and the gangways allow the people get to the Balcony of the Devil's Throat. When the river increases its flow, railings are folded to allow the flow to pass through, by reducing the resistance. And if the river level is very high, the flow velocity increases, the gangways are detached, to avoid compromising the concrete structure. Once the flow is down again, all the structure is reset. There is no access to Devil's throat in those times, but the Iguazu National Park never closes its doors, and those who are visiting can enjoy the other falls/view points.

These are shots from the official site...nothing does justice to these AWESOME FALLS

After seeing the high point of the park...Garganata del diablo, we took the Sendero (trail) Macuco .

Macuco Trail and Arrechea Waterfall:

• Length: 7,000 meters there and back (7,655 yards) • Accessibility: wild path, without transports. • Difficulty: low in the first 3,200 meters (3,499 yards), high in the following 200 meters (218 yards), and medium in the final 100 meters (109 yards). • Final destination:  Arrechea Stream waterfall and pool.
• Estimated time of visit: 3 hours • Restrooms and bar: only at the beginning, at the Rainforest Ecological Train Central Station.

This trail has the name of a bird of the South American partridge family, a brown bird bigger than a chicken. The access to the Macuco Trail is allowed from 8:00 AM to 3:00 PM, and it should be completed during daylight. We started at 2 PM, the trail is closed at 3 and the park closes at 6.  It was a race to finish the trek and not to get locked in the forest.

Caí monkeys can be spotted as this is their natural habitat. They live on trees, are restless and very curious. They move in groups of no more than 20 individuals. They eat fruits, and the forest has everything they need. It is advised that visitors should not approach them or feed them, and simple watch their natural behavior without interfering.

The Macuco Trail ends at the edge of the Iguazú canyon. Thousands of years ago, the Falls were located at this point, and gradually moved backwards to their current location. Nowadays, their old location has been taken up by many streams that flow into the Iguazú River, such as the Arrechea Stream, which has a 20 meters high (65.62 ft) cascade before the end. Here the stream gushes under the wooden bridge...

Happy after completing 31/2 km and reaching the end of a long trail. It was a 7km trek both ways to reach this falls Arrechea.

Million year old forests surrounding the sendero macuco reaching Arrechea falls here...

ARRECHEA FALLS after descending the final steps here...

On the way back: saw some unique new things --cactus flowers here.

Had the forest to ourselves, a little scary feeling...there are pumas, jaguars and a recent report talks about meeting a puma while on foot. Trick is not to make eye contact but back off slowly!!

Closeup of twisted barks...

Saw eagles returning to nests, other colorful birds flitting by, a batch of coatis scampering away and a naughty baby monkey shaking trees.

Nice oranges from the trees laden with the fruit...we picked those on the ground

 brought these home to Houston...quite sweet.

The notice board gave fair warning; very happy to have finished the trek.

The only knock was by the nut that landed on the head --probably thrown by the baby monkey. 

Triumphant after the trek--did it in 3 hours... the gate closed here as it was almost 5pm.

My stupid shoes were killing me. Son stumbled and the sole of his new shoe got damaged. His big toe was bleeding and I almost burst into tears at the sight of the blood! Guess the lack of adequate sleep and the long hikes in stupid shoes were catching up! But it had been such a huge privilege visiting such BEAUTIFUL places!

I sat at the train station trying to compose myself and son went to the nearby center. They washed and bandaged the toe with their Firstaid kit and he was alright. Really very nice people all round!!

We regrouped, caught the train and reached the entrance.

Caught the bus back as usual and got off at the Brazil border after the routine of stamping passport. Did not want to repeat previous day's mistake of going all the way to the town center.

However, did not get any bus to hotel, so took a taxi, overpaid as usual and reached our hotel safe and sound at 8 pm

Our next day is posted here:

http://adventuretrav.blogspot.com/2017/02/brazilargentina-trip-report-day-8.html

Brazil/Argentina Trip Report, Day 5: Parque Nacional Iguazú Argentina

Day 5, April 13, 2012:

Parque Nacional Iguazú Argentina:

http://www.iguazuargentina.com/en/

is the official site of the national park on the Argentine side.

The routine to get into the Iguazu national park on the Argentine side is pretty complicated. We can see where our base and entry to Argentine town are...marked by red arrows...

We took a local bus from the bus station near our hotel in Foz do Iguacu to Brazilian border, a short ride for us as we were staying very close to the border not in centro as most tourists.

Got exit stamp on passport, then took an Argentine bus to the Argentine border 2 km away... this is through no man's land. Got an entry stamp on our passport. 

Now we needed Argentine pesos as entry fee to the national park needs to be paid in only cash in local currency. So we lined up at the Cambio conveniently nearby and got pesos for 2 entry tickets. The good part is that we could use the same ticket 2 days in a row once we buy it at the Park and have it stamped on exit! 

Then another bus ride to ARG Puerto Iguazu bus terminal,

Puerto Iguazú Bus Station:

It is located downtown, 20 minutes from Iguazú Falls and 8 minutes from Tancredo Neves International Bridge, joining Argentina and Brazil. This is the place of arrival and departure of tourist from any part of the country, where buses with daily services to Iguazú Falls at the Brazilian side, and Ciudad del Este, Paraguay.

There is a public passenger transport from the city of Puerto Iguazú to Iguazú National Park every 15 minutes, whose itinerary begins at Hito de las Tres Fronteras, passing by Puerto Iguazú bus station, and buses arrive at Cataratas Area in 20 minutes.

The bus service is provided by the company Río Uruguay and people can identify it by the sign reading "Cataratas".

We bought the bus tickets to the Park at the counter at the bus terminal, got into the bus with the board "Cataratas" amd off we went to the Parque Nacional Iguzu.

Parque Nacional Iguzu:

We went to the visitor center and as said bought entry tickets with the cash we had exchanged. On the Argentine side—8am—6pm (100 AR$ pp, second day is for half price if you get your ticket stamped before leaving on the first day.

Fees are in Argentinean currency and can only be paid in cash and with this currency. Credit and debit card payment is available inside the National Park, except for the entrance and parking tickets. The Park operating hours go from 8:00 AM to 6:00 PM. • ID or passport is required at the ticket office when buying the entrance ticket. The place of residence on the ID or passport will determine the category of visitor and the fee.

The park has different boardwalks and an eco train taking us to the stations from where we can access the boardwalks

Rainforest Train/Ecotrain:

It starts at Central Train Station, very close to the services and shop areas, and where the access to Macuco Trail is located ((We covered this the next day)). From there, trains depart every 15 or 20 minutes, depending on demand. Here's a pic of the train from the official site...

Cataratas Train Station is the intermediate stop, where the access to the Upper and Lower Circuits is located and visitors can board the boat to San Martín Island. (We were able to cover only up to this part on the 1st day)

 The train ends at the Devil’s Throat (Garganto Diablo) Train Station, where the 1,100 meters long (1,203 yards) footbridge begins and leads across the Upper Iguazú River to the lookout from which this wonderful waterfall can be seen. (We covered this the next day)

We boarded the train from the entrance and got down at the 1st station to start the trail Circuito Inferior--1700 meters of trail with very rewarding views

Lower Circuit (Circuito Inferior):

• Length: 1,700 meters long (1,859 yards) • Accessibility: medium • Difficulty: access without stairs up to Bosetti Waterfall and Iguazú canyon lookout.
• Estimated time of visit: an hour and 45 minutes • Access to this trail is allowed until 05pm • Restrooms and Bar: at Dos Hermanas Square, just at the Circuit entrance.

Footbridges go into the forest foliage to where Dos Hermanas, Chico and Ramírez Waterfalls falling waters break and to the end of this part of the Circuit, where we can enjoy the lower portions of the great water wall of Bosetti Waterfall.

Metal wiremesh floors to see the waters rushing below.

There are good sign boards in most places--this one showing Circuito Inferior, Isla San Martin, which are our 1st 2 stops...

Lower trail starts here...2 arrows, 2 views.

Story behind the name:

Born in Spain. Alvar Nunez Cabeza de Vaca, was the first European to see Iguassu Falls in the period 1541-1542. After wandering almost naked among the natives of North America for 10 years, Cabeza de Vaca returned to Spain in 1537 and was rewarded with an appointment as governor of Rio de la Plata (an area that forms Paraguay).

 In 1541-42, Cabeza de Vaca led an expedition through the South of present-day Brazil to Asuncion, the capital of Rio de la Plata. On the way he explored marvelous Iguassu Falls.

He took office as governor of the province in 1542, but was ousted two years later as the result of a revolt.Sent to Spain under arrest in 1554, he was later banished to Africa. In 1556, he obtained a pardon and a pension.

This gives views of the falls from above..."Chico Alferez Waterfall" The name was given to it for its small size in comparison to the larger falls that neighbor it...

In honor of Juan Jose Lanusse, the second Governor of the province of Misiones, he was responsible for first bringing tourists to the Iguazu Falls and the San Ignacio ruins via river. He also founded the villages of Apostoles and Azara located in the same province....

Salto Ramírez...Manuel Antonio Ramírez: poet and journalist who wrote about the river, and died young just 35 years old.

Salto Bosetti ...Carlos Bosetti, naturalist pioneer and great explorer of the Misiones jungle.

Salto Mbiguá...Mbiguá Waterfall, named for a bird similar to a duck that makes its home in the islands of the Upper Iguazu River.

SAN MARTIN ISLAND:

On the way out of Bosetti Waterfall 20 meters away, there is an access to the quay from where we can board a boat to San Martín Island. 

The Circuit goes on along the border of the Iguazú River opposite to the island, and we can marvel at its beaches and cliffs. The second part of the Lower Circuit ends at the lookout on top of where this branch of river meets the Iguazú canyon, and the impressive Devil's Throat and its typical mist can be seen at the far. 

For those looking for adventure in the heart of the Falls with views of the San Martín waterfall and of “The Window” – or to cross the lower Iguazú river – this trail is a challenge of physical strength. 

A butterfly took the ride with us to island San Martin...

The beach was rocky--full of pebbles. Still had a nice soak in the lower Iguazu river...had our lunch...

It was a hot afternoon and the milk from the carton came in handy with our sandwiches.

The 650 m trail located on the island begins with a 172 step staircase. 

Happy after the long trek....such a rewarding view....

Salto San Martin -- In honor of General José de San Martín, father of patriotism and liberator of the Republics of Chile and Peru, to whom he gave their independence.

San Martín is regarded as a national hero of Argentina and Peru, and, together with Bolíva, one of the liberators of Spanish South America.,, Founder of the Cavalry Regiment, hero of the fight for American independence.

The third and last parts of the Circuit, which lead back to Dos Hermanas Square, have stairs and go through the Lower Iguazú shore where Alvar Núñez, Elenita, and Lanusse steep waterfalls can be enjoyed.

This is Salto dos Hermanas--The Two Sisters Falls, in honor of Maria and Teresa, daughters of the second Governor of Misiones - Juan Jose Lanusse

We took the speed boat ride on ARG side as well, it was exhilarating...

Filled up our drinking water from this tiny little falls...

At the Circuito Superior: this is an easier trek after our 2 treks...Circuito Inferior and San Martin trails

Upper Circuit (Circuito Superior):

• Length: 1.750 meters long (1913 yards) • Accessibility: high • Difficulty: none, without stairs> • Estimated time of visit: two hours. • Access to this trail is allowed until 05:00pm. • Restroom and bar: 50 meters away from the exit of the Circuit, at Cataratas Train Station. 

It begins two hundred meters from The Rainforest Train Cataratas Station and along its way we can enjoy a panoramic view of the semicircular chain that begins at Dos Hermanas Waterfalls, going through Chico, Ramírez, Bosetti, Adán y Eva, and Bernabé Méndez Waterfalls, ending at Mbiguá Waterfall lookout as a first stop. 

It is characterized by having its trails set on top of the waterfalls edge, which allows a vertical view from the top, something really electrifying. After Mbiguá Waterfall lookout, the gangway crosses the Superior Iguazú River to reach the edge of the second largest fall of this beautiful system: the San Martin Waterfall. This balcony has the best and widest panoramic view of the whole Park: we can see the Hotel Das Cataratas and the elevators on the Brazilian side, and the Sheraton Hotel, the Old Water Tank Tower, the balconies of Upper and Lower trails, the San Martin island and the gangway to Devil's Throat on the Argentinian side. To exit this circuit, the gangway runs snaking back through islets in the Upper Iguazú delta, to finally reach Cataratas Station.

This is Salto Adan y Eva...Named after the first inhabitants of the Garden of Eden.

Both the countries should be complimented for preserving such a green natural environment thru out

We see the greenery and the falls everywhere--no commercial buildings

We see so many different facets of the same falls--the trail has been expertly designed

As darkness descends, and the park staff hustle us out, we headed for the entrance to catch our bus to Puerto Iguacu, ARG bus terminal. We got our tickets stamped when we left the park, so we paid only half entry fee next day.

We did the whole routine of passport stamping and boarding different buses. We requested the Brazil bus driver to drop us where we can get a local bus to our Hotel. The bus was going to Centro. He dropped us some where far away. We thankfully got a taxi to our hotel. We were mighty pleased we were able to converse in Brazilian Portuguese and reach our hotel safe

The whole experience of the day, the several waterfall views and speedboat ride had been AWESOME. We were so thrilled! 

Another lovely day at the falls is reported in the next post:

http://adventuretrav.blogspot.com/2017/01/brazilargentina-trip-report-day-6.html