Sunday, October 16, 2016

Germany Trip Report, Days 8, 9: Cologne

Oct 5, 2015:

Appartel am Dom, Köln:

Appartel am Dom, Köln is a lovely place to stay and just a stone’s throw from the cathedral. 




I made my way to the cathedral in the morning around 7 am

 Cologne Cathedral:

The cathedral covers almost 8,000 sq m of floor space and can hold more than 20,000 people.









This Gothic cathedral was built to house the remains of the Three Wise Men, which the Archbishop had brought to Cologne from Milan after conquering it in 1164. Cornerstone was laid in 1248. In the early 16th century, building was stopped for more than 300 years - partly due to lack of money. In 1842 King Friedrich Wilhelm IV laid the foundation stone marking the continuation of building work. The Cathedral was completed in 1880 - in accordance with the plan originating from the Middle Ages - in a record time of just 38 years.

It is nothing short of a miracle that, although badly damaged, Cologne Cathedral survived the Second World War in spite of extensive bombing

 Today the cathedral is Cologne’s second-tallest structure, surpassed only by the telecommunications tower.

At 157.38 m, the northern tower is 7 cm taller than the southern one.

Repair and maintenance work is constantly being carried out in one or another section of the building, which is rarely completely free of scaffolding, as wind, rain, and pollution slowly eat away at the stones

Due to the building’s impressive Gothic architecture, the shrine of the Three Wise Men, the outstanding stained-glass windows and the many other important works of art, UNESCO declared Cologne Cathedral a World Heritage Site in 1996.

The main entrance shows the 19th century decoration. This is where visitors can enter the cathedral during the day. 


These are 43 m high arches




 I took another look at the awesome stained glass windows; with the sun light streaming in, they glittered like gems

These five windows on the South side called the Bayernfenster were given by Ludwig I of Bavaria










The main altar with the huge reliquary was cordoned off and visitors were confined to other parts of the cathedral. Worshippers were being let in to the altar by a priest. I approached him, said Gutentag and asked if I may attend the mass, please. He said, OK, But no photos. I entered and sat near the reliquary for almost an hour. The mass and the choir’s singing were soothing and the sight of the reliquary and the altar was great.

The Shrine of the Three Kings (German Dreikönigsschrein) is a reliquary containing the bones of the Biblical Magi, the Three Wise Men. The shrine is a large gilded and decorated triple sarcophagus placed above and behind the high altar of Cologne Cathedra
 

The Shrine of the Three Kings is 43 inches wide, 60 inches high, 87 inches (220 cm) long. It is shaped like a basilica: two sarcophagi stand next to each other, with the third sarcophagus resting on their roof ridges.  It is made of wood, with gold and silver overlay decorated with filigree, enamel, and over 1000 jewels.  There are 74 high relief figures in silver-gilt in all, not counting smaller additional figures in the background decoration. On the sides, images of the prophets decorate the lower part, while images of the apostles and evangelists decorate the upper part. On one end, there are (across the bottom, from left to right) images of the Adoration of the Magi, Mary enthroned with the infant Jesus, and the Baptism of Christ, and above, Christ enthroned at the Last Judgement. The other end shows scenes of the Passion: the scourging of Christ (lower left) and his crucifixion (lower left) with the resurrected Christ above. This end also has a bust of Rainald of Dassel in the center.


 This is the Stained glass window by Gerhard Richter, 20 m (66 ft) tall...Since the loss of the original window in World War II, this space had been temporarily filled with plain glass. On 25 August 2007, it received a new stained glass in the south transept window. With 113 sq m (1,220 sq ft) of glass, the window is composed of 11,500 identically sized pieces of colored glass resembling pixels, randomly arranged by computer, which create a colorful "carpet". The archbishop of the cathedral who had preferred a figurative depiction of 20th-century Catholic martyrs for the window, did not attend the unveiling



This is the Medieval statue of St. Christopher...Christopher means "Christ-bearer", he had dedicated himself to the service of men and one day carried a child, who was unknown to him, across a river before the child revealed himself as Christ. So now he is the patron saint of travelers

This is the Crucifix of Bishop Gero, (965AD), the oldest known large crucifix...


It is carved in oak, and painted and partially gilded. The halo and cross-pieces are original, but the Baroque surround was added in 1683. The figure is 187 cm high, and the span of the arms is 165 cm. It appears to be the oldest Western depiction of a dead Christ on the cross; in most earlier depictions Christ holds his head erect and looks straight ahead, or looks down at the Virgin at the foot of the cross.

This is the Crypt where Archbishops are buried

Went back the apartment, had some food, had a pleasant chitchat in my pathetic German with the maid who had come in to clean.

Google map had given complicated instructions to take a bus to visit the perfume house.

When I tried to inquire details on buying a bus ticket, the reception girl directed me to their manager. He spoke excellent English and gave me great walking directions. So off I went armed with a map.

Passed the Hauptbahnhof right in the Dom platz (cathedral square).

Peeped into the Souvenir shop near Dom... Hummel figurines are so cute.




This fountain called Heinzelmännchenbrunnen has the recurring theme of pixies...  the legend of the good pixies, who emerge at night to do the work of people,





Reached the Daft Fragrance museum, FARINA-HOUSE




In 1709 Farina established what is today the world's oldest fragrance company. John Maria Farina (1685-1766) named his fragrance Eau de Cologne in honor of the city of Cologne. Today the 8th generation of the Farina family still produces the original Eau de Cologne

In the 17th century the tulip was a precious item that bloomed in the gardens of Turkish palaces. The Dutch paid huge amounts of money for a bulb of this beautiful flower. Farina, who desired an image of great beauty for his trademark and his products, chose a red tulip for the original perfume.

45 min Tours take place every hour on the hour. , I booked the 4 pm English tour.

Then I strolled through the picturesque altstadt (old town).






The Old Town is located directly along the Rhine


This is Great Saint Martin Church... Its foundations rest on remnants of a Roman chapel. The church was later transformed into a Benedictine monastery







Interesting sights…Heumarkt 62 - "Brewery for priests"



Hotel Weinhaus since 1234...


This is Hohenzollern Bridge (German: Hohenzollernbrücke), accessible to rail and pedestrian traffic. 
It is the most heavily used railway bridge in Germany with more than 1200 trains daily, connecting the Köln Hauptbahnhof and Köln Messe/Deutz stations.

The total length of the Hohenzollern Bridge is 410 m. Four equestrian statues of Prussian kings and German emperors of the Hohenzollern family flank each ramp




 These horrible love padlocks on the fence between the footpath and the railway lines since 2008… some of them rusting away.

Walked over to Köln Triangle (formerly also known as LVR-Turm). It is a 103.2 m (339 ft) tall building



View from Köln Triangle was great... they’ve etched the landmarks on the glass at appropriate places...







Retraced my steps 



Returned the apartment, had lunch and walked back to the Fragrance museum--Farina House, creator of the original Eau de Cologne—for my 4 PM appointment.

Our guide conducted the tour as perfumer Johann Maria Farina (1685-1766) who created the original Eau de Cologne, the perfume, which reminded him of an Italian spring morning after rain.


We learn the history of the family Farina. In the ‘chamber of essences‘ we smell a number of interesting essences... hundreds of perfume oils in small phials.



A staircase leads down to the original cellar, where 300 years ago, the scents were produced. There is even an original barrel made out of cedar wood, dating from the beginnings of the company. There is a replica of a distillery, as used by Johann Maria Farina in the 18th Century.


This is a miniature display of an affluent 1700 home.





Special crystal vials for supplying perfumes to royalty...


Asian Perfume sample case in ivory, gold and mother-of-pearl here.



 At the end of the tour we got a souvenir of a small eau de cologne bottle priced at €  7 while the price of the tour had been € 5. Great returns indeed!

Son’s team had been put up at Hotel Ascaris, Pulheim, some 20 km from the city center of Cologne. They had been driven there in a van from Netherlands and he took the local train and reached the apartment in the evening. 

We went to the cathedral 



Then had a walk through the old town.

Interesting concept here... map on an umbrella... ha ha!


Anthuriums

Orchids


This is a miniature train set in the train station... there is even a slot to feed coins to make it work..







This is amber...




Lovely candles...

 Oct 6, 2015:

At 6 am the next morning, we checked out of the apartment and took the local train to Pulheim. Walked to son's hotel, Hotel Ascaris, Pulheim.



I stayed put in the room while he went for his official training and in the afternoon around the time the training would be over I took a cab to join the team. We were driven to our next destination Weimar in a van in steady drizzle. If we had tried to travel from Pulheim to Weimar on our own by public transport, we need to take a train from Cologne to Frankfurt and then go to Weimar… pretty round about way. So it was nice that the office obliged giving a free ride to me.

Reached Weimar and settled in. Weimar is a lovely place, it's to Goethe what Stratford on Avon is to Shakespeare! The report is here:
http://adventuretrav.blogspot.com/2016/10/germany-trip-report-day-10-weimar.html

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