Argentina Trip Report, Day 5: El Calafate; Day 6:Glacier Cruise

DAY 5, Dec 2, 2013: 

Took a cab to centro, asked for Fernandes Campbell company to book our todos glaciares cruise for the next day Dec 3^rd.

This is the Prestigio office where we booked our all glaciers cruise. 

Then we walked to  el chalten travels and booked our return bus tickets to chalten for Dec 4—5.

Then we walked to LaAnonima to get rice, leche, yogur, pan, fruits, tomato, avocado and started walking back.

Calafate's main drag Av. Liberatador san martin is so pretty.

The sign with the pic of the sun shows the calafate bushes after which the town is named.

Our Lady of Patagonia...Nuestra Senora de la Patagonia...

This is Don Bosco (1815—88) ... Father John Bosco an Italian priest/missionary. 

He dedicated his life to the betterment and education of street children, juvenile delinquents, and other disadvantaged youth. 

He developed teaching methods based on love rather than punishment, a method that became known as the Salesian Preventive System. A follower of Saint Francis de Sales, he  had 800 orphans in his home at one point in time. negotiated terms of apprenticeship to boys from wealthy businessmen. 

Bosco had a dream where he was on a vast plain, inhabited by primitive people, who spent their time hunting or fighting . Along came a band of missionaries, but they were all massacred. A second group appeared, which Bosco  recognized as Salesians.  the fierce savages laid down their arms and listened to the missionaries.  Bosco tried hard to identify the men and the country of the dream – and for three years collected information about different countries. A request from Argentina, turned him towards the Indians of Patagonia, and a study of the people there convinced him that the country and its inhabitants were the ones he had seen in his dream. Towards the end of 1874, John Bosco received letters from the Argentine consul at Savona requesting that he accept an Italian parish in Buenos Aires. He did so and is a revered saint in Argentina.

This is Perito Moreno, the famous explorer after whom the biggest glacier is named ...

This is the Patagonian cypress—the largest tree species in South America, normally growing to 40–60 m, but occasionally more than 70 m in Argentina, and up to 5 m in trunk diameter.

Its rough pyramidal canopy provides cover for the southern beech, laurel and myrtle.

Its wood is used extensively for the houses.

Awesome street sculpture above— lot of mapuche Indian art around...

This pink gem Rhodochrosite is Argentina's "national gemstone"

The Incas believed that rhodochrosite is the blood of their former rulers, turned to stone, therefore it is sometimes called "Rosa del Inca" or "Inca Rose".

Dark blue stone in the vase is beryl.

Green stones —malachite'; blue—turquoise.

Yet another mile sign.

Love the shop facade in wood...

Window shopping was never more fun.

Here is Perito Moreno in such a life like form—fiberglass/ resin statue.

Francisco Pascasio Moreno (May 31, 1852–November 22, 1919) was a prominent explorer and academic in Argentina, where he is usually referred to as Perito Moreno (perito means "specialist, expert"). Perito Moreno helped in the Argentine incorporation of large parts of Patagonia.

Los Glaciares National Park is located in the Austral Andes in Argentina, in the south west of Santa Cruz on the border with Chile.

Intendencia translates to quartermaster—an official.

We find these boards in all offices in tourist areas, using the same word.

This is the most famous Argentine Power Couple Juan Domingo Perón and his second wife Evita Peron...

Juan Domingo Perón (October 8, 1895 – July 1, 1974) was an Argentine military officer and politician. After serving in several government positions, including Minister of Labour and Vice President of the Republic, he was three times elected as President of Argentina, serving from June 1946 to September 1955

Evita who was the poor illegitimate daughter of a nobleman married Peron 30 years her senior. She died at the age of 30 and her biopic has been filmed with Madonna in the lead

The Peróns' followers praise their efforts to eliminate poverty and to dignify labor, while their detractors consider them demagogues and dictators. The Peróns gave their name to the political movement known as Peronism, which in present-day Argentina is represented mainly by the Justicialist Party.

October 17, The Loyalty Day (Spanish: Día de la lealtad) is a commemoration day in Argentina. It remembers October 17, 1945, when a massive labour demonstration at the Plaza de Mayo demanded the liberation of Juan Perón, who was jailed in Martín García island. It is considered the foundation day of Peronism.

Both in Rio, Brazil and In Argentina, we notice streets/squares named after a particular date.

Patagonian cypress trees again...

Though the distance between centro and our hotel was just under 2 km, it became tough to walk in the cold wind. after reaching no 2600, we entered a hotel and requested the reception guy to call us a cab. We paid 20 pesos for the short cab ride and called it a day.

It had been en excellent decision to walk because when we drive through these places we miss all the beauty.

The temp had been 9°C—2°C.

Day 6, Dec 3, 2013: temp 10°C—4°C: Todo Glaciares Cruise.

Had paid 720 peso for the ship, 80 peso for hotel pickup/drop and then had to pay 130 peso entrance for the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares.

Got picked up at our hotel at 7.50—we were the last to be picked up. reached the Los Glaciares Parque Nacional, paid the entry of 130 pesos and got on the Quo Vadis ship.

Quo vadis? is a Latin phrase meaning "Where are you going?" or "Whither goest thou?"

This all day long boat tour takes us to the northern arm of Lago Argentino, reaching the great icebergs barrier. We see Spegazzini Glacier, the Upsala Glacier farther, and finally Perito Moreno. 

The boarding is in the port of Punta Bandera Private (47 kilometers from the city of El Calafate).

 Once aboard we sail across the North Arm of Lake Argentino until the Upsala Channel, where we find a great Ice Barrier.

From there we have a panoramic view of the Upsala Glacier.

Then we sail Spegazzini Canal, observe Seco Glacier and reach the front of the glacier Spegazzini, the highest National Park.

Then navigate the Iceberg Canal to reach the wall of the Perito Moreno Glacier , this being our last check point. The return to Punta Bandera Private Port is approximately at 04:00 pm.

Up on the top deck to catch our first glimpse of a glacier...

Upsala channel glaciers—some glacier caves...

Glacial ice is a different color from regular ice. The ice on a glacier has been there for a really long time and has been compacted down so that its structure is pretty different from the ice we normally see. It is so blue because the dense ice of the glacier absorbs every other color of the spectrum except blue - so blue is what we see!

It's Not Just Frozen Water!

Freezing cold... but the sight of the glaciers made it worthwhile.

After being on upper deck (near the flag) for a couple of hours we decided to go down to the cabin.

We knew we'll lose our spot but it did not matter — it was equally good viewing from lower deck.

This is  Spegazzini glacier—mixed with mineral matter—hence the grey color.

 Lower deck is fine too— people were just sitting inside and there was plenty of space outside unlike the ever-crowded top deck.

The lower deck proved to be much better for viewing. We had taken food, juice with us and had them at regular intervals in the warm cabin before returning back on the deck.

As the warm cabins and seats were so close, people would go back soon, leaving us with good photo ops.

No dull moment on the 8 hour ride.

This is the entrance to the warm cabin.

 Upsala Glacier—South America’s longest glacier at a length of 60 kilometers (37.28 miles), a width of between five and seven km (3.1 and 4.34 miles), and a 60-meter- (196.85-foot-) high snout.

The Upsala Glacier ice fields cover some 870 km², and stretch the length of 60 km.

Upsala is the second longest glacier in South America, exceeded only by the Pius XI Glacier in Chile

 Water fall—there are several on the sides of the mountains.

  Perito moreno glacier—north wall...WOW!

The 250 sq km (97 sq mi) ice formation, 30 km (19 mi) in length, is one of 48 glaciers fed by the Southern Patagonian Ice Field located in the Andes system.

This icefield is the world's third largest reserve of fresh water.

The terminus of the Perito Moreno Glacier is 5 kilometres (3 mi) wide, with an average height of 74 m (240 ft) above the surface of the water of Lake Argentino, in Argentina. It has a total ice depth of 170 metres (558 ft).

Perito Moreno Glacier is one of only three Patagonian glaciers that is growing.

Glaciar Perito Moreno (Perito Moreno Glacier), a twenty-mile-long river of ice draining the Southern Patagonian Icefield (Hielo Sur). The Perito Moreno Glacier empties perpendicularly into a narrow, fjord-like arm of Lago Argentino called the Brazo Rico (or the Canal de los Tempanos). 

The glacier’s three mile wide terminal face is composed of walls of fractured blue ice that rise almost two hundred feet from the surface of the lake. 

Because the Perito Moreno Glacier enters the Brazo Rico at a right angle, it is able to surge across this narrow arm of the lake sealing off the upper portion of the Brazo Rico from the main body of the lake. The waters in the blocked-off arm can backup against the dam of ice to a level one hundred feet above that of the main part of the lake. When the glacier is no longer able to hold back the weight of the impounded waters, the ice dam collapses in a magnificent spectacle that occurs every several years.

Front of Perito Moreno glacier is 5 km long, 60 feet high.

 The boat is manoevered on all sides so that all passengers get a good view where ever they are seated.

Boat has started speeding away...

 We scamper to the back deck for seeing the glacier till it's out of view...as the boat speeds away. Just a matter of running to the appropriate deck depending on which way the boat is headed.

There are snow covered peaks...granite mountains, mountains with green forests and the awesome BLUE glacier in the expanse of water all around...

The board cautions about slippery surface...zona resbaladiza.

When the ship speeds, huge volume of icy water splashes here...

On the pier getting off the quo vadis ship after the cruise...

LAGUNA NIMEZ:

We got dropped off 1st in the group around 4.30 at our hotel Solares del sur and after dumping bags at the room and making rice, set off in a cab (45 peso) for Laguna Nimez in centro.

Our hotel solares del sur is a lovely cabin—-kitchen, bath, dining/living room downstairs and bedroom upstairs with a balcony overlooking Lago Argentina.

This is the dresser in the bedroom.

Paid the entry fee of 40 peso and entered the trail of the bird sanctuary.

This reserve is located  1,000 meters from the local center, at the end of Brown Street, perpendicular to the main avenue.

Pics / videos have not done justice to this wonderful bird sanctuary.

Very windy and cold as everyone had warned us. We sought out this nook for a little respite from the biting cold wind...

Plenty of Calafate bushes  here—-ate its berry. people who eat calafate berry are supposed to return to this lovely place.

The city's name is derived from a little bush with yellow flowers and dark blue berries that is very common in Patagonia: the calafate (Berberis buxifolia); the word comes from the word "calafate", which is Spanish for "caulk".

The observatory matching the environment.

Saw all types of birds.

 The entrance/visitor center behind...

The place is not too frequented by visitors, so we had a peaceful time observing the birds quietly.

Ticket of 40 peso is valid for a whole year. The guy inside even set up the telescope and gave us great views of birds.

We used the ticket again on Dec 7th morning, the day we left. viewed many more birds and heard a lovely concert by a mocking bird.

Thoroughly recommend visiting the park in the morning as birds are much more active.

We caught a cab from the taxi stand opp La Anonima and went back to the hotel after having seen so many lovely birds at the Laguna Nimez.

AWESOME DAY IN ALL RESPECT!

Next post on our visit to the lovely El Chalten with awesome views of Mt Fitz Roy, Mt Torre and treks to Lagun Capri and Laguna Torre is here:

http://adventuretrav.blogspot.com/2017/05/argentina-trip-report-day-7-el-chalten.html