Showing posts with label museum pass. Show all posts
Showing posts with label museum pass. Show all posts

Friday, May 13, 2016

Venice Trip Report Day 2: Doge's Palace, St Mark's Bell tower

May 30, 2014, Friday:

We came down from our Antico Moro hotel room at 7.10 am, with our bags packed, requested Antico Moro owner to ring up Moro Lin guy. He spoke to him in Italian and said, “Your room will be ready only at 11, so he said he’ll come and pick up your bags then and your bags will be in your room when you return in the evening. You can leave your bags here and go”

I said “I need my keys… we’ll return only by 8/9 PM and I don’t want a repeat of yesterday, standing at the gate… waiting for some one to open the door”

He said, “Not my problem… my friend told me to keep your bags… he’ll collect it at 11; you can go”
He dragged our bags into a small room, banged the door shut and walked off…

I said “I need my keys… let me talk to him”
He said “Shhh…keep your voice low…the keys are not ready… the room will be ready at 11”
I said “I need the duplicate keys… let me talk to him, I’m NOT leaving till I get my keys”

He said “Shhh… don’t wake up my customers”

I said “I NEED MY KEYS

He ran to the phone and dialed Moro Lin guy… meanwhile my son was telling me in our language, “These are mafia guys… they do what they want…I don’t want you getting hurt… let’s leave… we’ll ask him to collect the key and we’ll come back here in the evening, get the key and go there”

Moro Lin guy was on line; he sounded sleepy, said, “I’ll collect your bags at 11, Senora!”
I told him, “This is not about the bags… I need keys…I don’t want a repeat of yesterday’s waiting”

“Aaahh… the keys…” he said, “OK, where are you?”
I said “At Antico Moro”
He said “I’m coming in 10 min”

We waited for 15 minutes and I requested Antico Moro guy to telephone him again… he did so, said “He’s coming!”

 He did come in another 5 min, took our bags … Antico Moro guy was heaving an exaggerated sigh of relief!!! Hmm.. I'm being painted as the bad guy here, just for asking for keys to the apartment I've paid for! 

We were driven to the same office, and were going through checkin formalities… he wanted the credit card for immediate payment… at the same rate…

I asked No discount for our trouble? We stayed in a small room, no kitchen, so much waiting …”

He shrugged, “I drove you up and down… so it’s all adjusted… there will be a bowl of fruit and bottled water in the apt when you return”

 I had read in TripAdvisor reviews that is customary for all visitors…
He said “You can leave and find a new place if you don’t want to stay here”

To add to all the trouble, I knew on that day May 30th, there was a local transport strike. I had asked the Antico Moro guy, “I read the buses will ply till 9am so that office goers won’t be affected and then again resume at 6… is that right?”he had nodded… I had told him, “That’s one reason, I want to go to Venice early...don’t want to be stuck in Mestre during the strike”

I told MoroLin guy, “There is a transport strike today, hurry up and let’s leave… I saw buses on the road”

He shrugged.. I again repeated my understanding of the strike hours… he nodded.

(One of the TA reviews mentions that they were not informed about the strike by the Moro Lin people and had to hire an expensive taxi t go to Venice... oh, well, you really have to look out for yourself, I guess!)

We got the keys and were told ours was apt no 2… which key opens the side gate and which one the apt… no other briefing and we were on our way

Thankfully caught a bus from just near the estate …

Now like an idiot, I didn’t check with anybody else about availability of bus in the evening… I trusted these 2 that the strike was nothing to worry about after 6pm!

OK, Now on to our day’s sight seeing…

We got down at Piazzale Roma as usual.

Here’s the famous Rialto bridge (Italian: Ponte di Rialto)


It is one of the four bridges spanning the Grand Canal and is the oldest bridge across the canal (1591). The present stone bridge, a single span, is similar to the wooden bridge it succeeded. Two inclined ramps lead up to a central portico.
On either side of the portico, the covered ramps carry rows of shops. The engineering of the bridge was considered so audacious that architect Vincenzo Scamozzi predicted future ruin. The bridge has defied its critics to become one of the architectural icons of Venice

There are several gondolas available for hire... several options around 100 euros...

The uniformed gondola guys are ever present...Note to self: never ever buy similar striped tees...


We got similar rides with our vaporetto pass and were OK with not hiring a private gondola!
 


We didn't have a strict agenda for Venice as we had seen the best of the best in the earlier cities covered...PARIS, ROMA, FIRENZE...if we had been keen on covering all the Venice museums, churches, we would have considered buying the museum /church passes. 


Entry to each church is €3; http://www.chorusvenezia.org/en/pass
Gives info on church pass which is priced at €12. As said earlier, after the grand churches, palaces, museums in Rome and Florence, we did not feel the need to visit all the churches, museums in Venice.

 We did want to go to San Giorgio Maggiore but with the strike on, no vaporetto was plying. The tip is to climb the bell tower of San Giorgio Maggiore for views instead of facing the long queues at San Marco bell tower. We had planned to do so, but we were stuck on this side… we walked about enjoying the beauty all around.

We entered a few churches...






We entered a free library and admired the exhibits.






The shops are veritable museums with lovely crafts in marble, bronze and of course the famous Murano glass...




Doge's Palace

We then visited Doge’s palace. The Doge's Palace (Italian: Palazzo Ducale) is a palace built in Venetian Gothic style. The palace was the residence of the Doge of Venice, the supreme authority of the Republic of Venice. Along with being the ducal residence, the palace housed political institutions of the Republic of Venice until the Napoleonic occupation of the city in 1797, when its role inevitably changed. Venice was subjected first to French rule, then to Austrian, and finally in 1866 it became part of Italy. The palace opened as a museum in 1923.

No pics allowed in the palace. These are just shots of the ceilings in passages, halls...






 The crowning production of Tintoretto's life, the vast Paradise,  size 22.6m x 9.1 m (74.1 x 29.9 feet), the largest painting ever done upon canvas is great.

This is the courtyard...





Since the 16th century, the palace has been linked to the prison by the Bridge of Sighs. 

Bridge of Sighs

A corridor leads over the Bridge of Sighs, built in 1614 to link the Doge’s Palace to the structure intended to house the New Prisons. Enclosed and covered on all sides, the bridge contains two separate corridors that run next to each other. That which visitors use today linked the Prisons to the chambers of the Magistrato alle Leggi and the Quarantia Criminal; the other linked the prisons to the State Advocacy rooms and the Parlatorio. Both corridors are linked to the service staircase that leads from the ground floor cells of the Pozzi to the roof cells of the Piombi. The famous name of the bridge dates from the Romantic period and refers to the sighs of prisoners who, passing from the courtroom to the cell in which they would serve their sentence, took a last look at freedom as they glimpsed the lagoon and San Giorgio through the small windows.



San Marco Campanile

Then we joined the short queue for going up the bell tower of San Marco, €8 pp for the elevator… as evening drew near, crowd had thinned and the line was short. 


We took the elevator and enjoyed awesome views.









Around 7.30 PM, we bought fruits, milk, yogurt, juice etc in the COOP near the pier, came to Piazzale Roma, and waited for our bus… it was raining steadily… we had brought one umbrella… our jackets were water proof, the hat kept some rain off but it was a mess…buses came in, even ours with board Noale and then after the passengers disembarked they put on Fuori service boards and drove away!

It took us some time to realize we won’t get a bus… we went to the train station, bought tickets to VE Mestre, got into a train going to Paduva and got out at Mestre… we tried to cross the road and hail a taxi that had come but a Chinese couple beat us to it!

We saw a huge queue at the station entrance for taxi… we went to Hotel Plaza reception and requested them to call us a taxi on their phone… the nice guys there tried for some 10 minutes but the line was busy and they said that’s the scenario when it rains and there is a strike!

I had the google map showing the way to MoroLin.. I showed them and asked for specifics on where to start… they said it’s a highway and very dangerous. OK, we did not want an accident on top of all the junk we were facing… We went to join the taxi queue and after an hour, got a taxi, which took us on a convoluted route and dropped us at the gate for some €15!

We went with trepedition to our apt… the lights were on, the TV was playing, a big bowl of fruits waited on the table in a classy apt with lofty ceilings, chandelier and the whole works!!



Needed a hot shower, after poking around in the washroom, Son found a thermostat behind a curtain near the kitchen area and seeing a water sign on it turned the knob and managed to get hot water running. After hunting for a lighter to light the gas stove, I found out it was the self ignition type…. Made pasta, determined that we won’t let others ruin our day, had a generous helping of the fruits and we slept in the spacious beautiful house.


covers our day trip to the lovely Murano, Burano islands



Friday, May 6, 2016

How to plan a trip to Florence, Italy & Days 1, 2: Galleria dell'Accademia, Palazzo Medici Ricardi and Bargello museum

FIRENZE


First of all, know it’s called Firenze in Italian and that’s the name you should use when booking tickets etc.

Florence is the showcase of Italian Renaissance, home of all time greats like Michael Angelo and is a treasure house for art lovers.

MAP OF ATTRACTIONS


As usual get a map: here’s a good one



Here's the google map prepared by me, pinning all the attractions we planned to visit; you can zoom in and out and see the details:


MUSEUM PASS


Yes, you need a proper museum pass

Firenze card


One of your options is the Firenze card,
Priority access to museums with no need to make reservations, 72 hours/€ 72

Amici degli Uffizi

Become a member of The Association Amici degli Uffizi till Dec 31

Individual: € 60,00 (one adult)
Family: € 100,00 (two adults and two or more children under 18)

You can buy it online and have it on you when you land in Firenze or buy it at the Uffizi office till 5pm, Mon-Sat. You need your passports for ID.

We had planned to buy the Firenze card at 72 euros from the tourist office opposite to SMN station Firenze, store our bags in the station itself and start our 72 hours right then. In the evening we wanted to collect the bags and go to our apartment—Villa Lucrezia 2km from the station.

However, when I thought in depth, cramming all sights in to 3 days starting Sunday looked difficult. Monday being holiday at several sites made it more complicated.

The option of using Amici degli uffizi card at 50 euros pp became more attractive—it was valid upto December, though it did not cover the Duomo, it did give us the privilege to jump the lines at the Academy, Uffizi and Pitti Palace and gained us entry to Bargello, Cappelle Medici as well.

Since we made the decision late, online option would not work out (no time to receive the mailed card) and we had to buy it in person

WHERE TO STAY:


Of course it’s best to stay in the city centro but there are the usual hassles of high prices, small rooms etc.

Florence is a very compact city. So even if you stay a little away from the center, you can take a bus and come in and walk easily to all the attractions

 We decided to stay in an apartment, Villa Lucrezia, 2 km from the train station.  It’s a former Count’s residence, with antique furniture and colorful modern amenities and it suited us fine




OUR VIDEOS

has the video of our day 1: Palazzo Medici Ricardi and Bargello museum

has the video of Duomo and Campanile,

has the video of Palazzo Vecchio

has the video of Pitti Palace

has the video of Pitti Palace Gardens, Basilica Santa Croce

has the video of our visit to Pisa

has the video of Santa Maria Novella Basilica

TRANSPORT

You can walk everywhere but buses are available if needed

is the ATAF site and it’s pretty easy to figure out bus options in and around Florence.

Now, I'm continuing with the report of our first day in Florence...

May 24, Saturday, 3 PM: Firenze:

We got down from the train. Entered the station building and went straight to one of the counters and bought our transport ticket. I had read from the official ATAF site awhile ago, the carte agile ticket can be loaded with money and used by 4 people on local buses—also a journey costing 1,20 euro separately would cost just one euro by the card.  So we loaded the card with 20euros for our 5 day Florence stay.

(actually there had been an amendment and from Sep 2013, the card can be used only by one person—we did not know that)

We went to the station exit. A taxi was pulling up depositing some passengers at the station. We showed the driver our address but he gestured that we should join the line a little ahead.

There was a straight bus no 17 to the door of our apartment but we did not want to look for it with our bags. We joined the taxi queue, in a few minutes were on our way. Short ride and he put us at the gate of our apartment.

After checking in, we took the bus to centro. Yes, our the carte agile ticket was swiping only once and even the locals could not help us. We did not realize there has been a change in rules and one of us rode ticketless unwittingly!

Saw the Santa Maria Novella church spire and the famed Duomo in the distance.


Rushed to the Uffizi office, showed them our passports and paid up €100 and got the Amici degli Uffizi cards for the both of us.

Walked on and Reached Piazza della Signoria (Signoria square), in front of the Palazzo Vecchio.

This is the Fountain of Neptune in the Piazza della Signoria (Signoria square


 The fountain was commissioned in 1565

This statue of Neptune is a copy made in the nineteenth century, while the original is in the National Museum.

The Neptune figure, whose face resembles that of Cosimo I de' Medici, was meant to be an allusion to the dominion of the Florentines over the sea.

The figure stands on a high pedestal in the middle of an octagonal fountain.
Around the perimeter of the basin, are reclining bronze river gods, laughing satyrs and marble sea-horses emerging from the water.

 The fountain served as a model for future fountain-makers.

Piazza della Signoria is an L-shaped square in front of the Palazzo Vecchio.

It was named after the Palazzo della Signoria, also called Palazzo Vecchio.

It is the focal point of the origin of the Florentine Republic and still is the political hub of the city.

 It is located near Ponte Vecchio and Piazza del Duomo and gateway to Uffizi Gallery

We admired the various statues in Piazza della Signoria,

The bronze sculpture Judith and Holofernes (1460), created by Donatello at the end of his career, can be seen in the Hall of Lilies (Sala dei Gigli), in the Palazzo Vecchio.



This is the copy in the Piazza della Signoria,.

 It depicts the assassination of the Assyrian general Holofernes by Judith

Of course the huge attraction is copy of David at the entrance of the Palazzo Vecchio,



The original by Michelangelo is at the Gallery of the Academy of Fine Arts.


The whole place was milling with crowds.

We admired the façade of the famous Duomo, the baptistery and the bell tower.



The market place has excellent wood craft shops...


The wood puppet Pinocchio (1883), created by the Florentine writer Carlo Collodi is ever present…
 we enjoyed the various pieces on offer.

Then we returned to our apartment.





May 25, Sunday:


Galleria dell'Accademia, Palazzo Medici Ricardi and Museo Nazionale del Bargello


Galleria dell'Accademia 

Knowing that the academy gets terribly crowded, we started our day there, landing there before it opened. There were 2 lines, we joined the longer one as the other one had priority written. As soon as an official came, we enquired and found that we qualify for the priority line as we have the Amici degli Uffizi card. As soon as the academy opened, we entered as part of the priority line!

No pics are allowed. The collection was great, the focus of course being David

Michelangelo’s David

The "David" in the Accademia is the original, brought here in 1873.


Michelangelo’s David is one of the most recognized works of Renaissance sculpture, a symbol of strength and youthful beauty.

It’s size is colossal-- 5.17-metre (17 ft). Work on David started in 1464 but after some initial work on a huge block of marble, it was abandoned. Michelangelo, only 26 years old, convinced the authorities that he deserved the commission to continue it. On 16 August 1501, Michelangelo was given the official contract. He worked on the massive statue for more than two years. The statue weighed 6 tons and It took four days to move the statue the half mile from Michelangelo's workshop into the Piazza della Signoria.

David is depicted before his battle with Goliath. Instead of being shown victorious over a foe much larger than he, David looks tense and ready for combat. His brow is drawn, his neck tense and the veins bulge out of his lowered right hand. The twist of his body effectively conveys to the viewer the feeling that he is in motion, an impression heightened with contrapposto (figure standing with one leg holding its full weight)


 With one leg holding its full weight and the other leg forward, this classic pose causes the figure’s hips and shoulders to rest at opposing angles, giving a slight s-curve to the entire torso. The contrapposto is emphasised by the turn of the head to the left, and by the contrasting positions of the arms.

The figure has an unusually large head and hands (particularly apparent in the right hand). due to the fact that the statue was originally intended to be placed on the cathedral roofline, where the important parts of the sculpture may have been accentuated in order to be visible from below. The statue is unusually slender (front to back) in comparison to its height, which may be a result of the work done on the block before Michelangelo began carving it.

All this is analysis… it’s definitely a WOW moment contemplating David… we were thrilled!

The gallery's small collection of Michelangelo's work includes his four unfinished Prisoners, intended for the tomb of Pope Julius II, and a statue of Saint Matthew, also unfinished.  They are awesome, showing how figures emerge from stone…

When we came out of the Academy, there was a long line on both sides. As usual early birds are rewarded!

Palazzo Medici Ricardi

Our next visit was Palazzo Medici Ricardi.


Here's the famous stone masonry; the rings are horse hitches.


 It was designed for Cosimo de' Medici, head of the Medici banking family, and was built between 1444 and 1484.

It’s well known for its stone masonry and the frescoe cycle of the Cavalcade of the Magi in the palace's small chapel by Benozzo Gozzoli

The loggia is made of monolithic columns with Composite Corinthian capitals. Above the loggia runs a frieze of tondi (circular plaques or medallions) in bas-relief alternating with Medici family heralds worked in different ways.

Sgraffito festoons are etched in the wall. (Sgraffito is a type of decoration executed by covering a surface, as of plaster or enamel, of one color, with a thin coat of a similar material of another color, and then scratching or scoring through the outer coat to show the color beneath.)

There was a contemporary exhibiton and the sculpture looked dynamic!




We marched into the palace and enjoyed the halls of tapestries.





The Galleria Riccardiana (Luca Giordano Hall of Mirrors) is indeed aweinspiring!



In the centre of the ceiling of the Galleria Riccardiana the Apotheosis of the Medici is depicted. On the sides Neptune's Wedding with Amphitrite (left) and the Rape of Proserpina (right) can be seen.


Great experience. No pics allowed in the Magi chapel ... needless to say,  it’s beautiful.



Then we went to Bargello museum

 Museo Nazionale del Bargello

Bargello, also known as the Bargello Palace, Museo Nazionale del Bargello, or Palazzo del Popolo (Palace of the People) is a former barracks and prison, now an art museum




The National Museum is in one of the oldest buildings in Florence that dates back to 1255.
Initially the headquarters of the Capitano del Popolo (Captain of the People) and later of the Podestà, the palace became, in the sixteenth century, the residence of the Bargello that is of the head of the police (from which the palace takes its name) and was used as prison during the whole 18th century.


Its walls witnessed important episodes of civic history. It was the meeting place of the Council of the Hundred in which Dante took part. It witnessed sieges, fires, executions, the most famous being that of Baroncelli, involved in the Pazzi plot against the Medici, which Leonardo also witnessed.


The building's use as National Museum began in the mid-19th century. Today it displays sculpture, mainly from the grand ducal collections, and "minor" Gothic decorative arts.






We loved the exhibits.

Uffizi

We visited Uffizi and enjoyed the lovely art especially the Botticellis. Our camera battery had died and the spare was in the bag checked in at the counter. We wound up with no pics. We optimistically planned another visit next day...

http://adventuretrav.blogspot.com/2016/05/florence-trip-report-day-3-duomo.html
covers Duomo and Campanile, Baptistry and Palazzo Vecchio