Budapest, Prague, and Austria Trip Intro:
We are just back from a great vacation in Budapest, Prague, and Austria (Salzburg with day trip to Fuschl am see, and Vienna with day trip to Melk and the Wachau valley) during the Thanksgiving holidays 2017.
It may appear as a hectic holiday where things may be just a whirl as in the funny old movie : If it's Tuesday, it must be Belgium!! But we had a great time and savored a great flavor of the cities we visited!
Pics below are a sample of the highlights we enjoyed in Budapest...
Hungarian State Opera (Magyar Állami Operaház) |
FISHERMAN'S BASTION |
0 KM, Hungary |
Parliament |
Parliament |
Parliament |
Attila József, the best known of modern Hungarian poets |
CHAIN BRIDGE |
WHEN TO GO?:
Thanksgiving
is a Federal holiday in the US on the last Thursday of November and the
following Friday is also a holiday. So it's a 4 day weekend and if we
combine with the previous weekend, we get a chunk of 9 days off by
taking just Monday-Wednesday off work. Son added on 2 days in the previous week also and we had 11 days to tour around, taking just 5 days off work.
November
is not the best month to tour Europe as the weather is cold and
gloomy with intermittent rain. Sun sets around 4.30 pm! Many
attractions are closed for maintenance. Second part of November
is slightly better as Christmas markets start sprouting in various
cities. We carefully analyzed all the options open to us and decided
it'll be worth our while
WHAT TO SEE?:
We
had a great pick of Austrian palaces, castles in Prague and Budapest,
State opera houses of Hungary, and Vienna, lovely churches, museums
as well as charming country side. Thankfully
weather was not too much of a damper.
Our
itinerary unfolded like this:
2
nights in Budapest,
2
nights in Prague,
2
nights in Salzburg,
3
nights in Vienna and
last
1 night at Budapest airport hotel for taking the early morning flight
back
Basically the vacation was like the map below, excluding the Germany bit.
Basically the vacation was like the map below, excluding the Germany bit.
I
have pinned all our necessary sites on this google map. You can zoom
in and out and read the info in the bubbles:
LOGISTICS:
FLIGHTS:
Ideally
we would have preferred to use an open jaw flight, flying into one
country and out of another. But flights were priced high from
Houston, US to Prague or Vienna. We had pretty reasonable rates for a
return flight to Budapest. So we settled on that.
TRAINS:
There
are very convenient trains connecting Budapest Keleti station, Prague
hlavni nadrazi, Salzburg hauptbahnhof and Vienna Hauptbannhof.
hlavni nadrazi and hauptbahnhof mean main station in Cesky and German
respectively. Prague is Praha and Vienna is Wien in the local
languages... important for train sites etc.
We
scheduled the longer train journeys first,
Budapest
to Prague 6 hour journey was the first part,
followed
by Prague to Salzburg. another 6 hour trip.
Salzburg
Vienna is 2 ½ hours
Vienna
Budapest is also 2 ½ hours.
TRAIN TICKETS:
There
are highly discounted tickets available some 3 months in advance.
Since we were traveling off season, we managed to get the discounted
tickets just a month before our travel date.
Bought
the tickets online from the official train sites for each country.
I've given more details in the report of each part. We would have been better off buying the Budapest to Prague ticket from the Czech site instead of the Hungarian site as the latter can be printed at home.
Hungarian Railways (MAV)
site www.mavcsoport.hu
Czech Railways
website www.cd.cz
Austrian railways
www.oebb.at/en/
Westbahn which plies
frequent trains between Vienna-Salzburg: https://westbahn.at/enI've given more details in the report of each part. We would have been better off buying the Budapest to Prague ticket from the Czech site instead of the Hungarian site as the latter can be printed at home.
CURRENCY:
Again,
we had to deal with 3 different currencies. Some of our
accommodations wanted cash payment, we used ATMs for drawing cash and
our credit card for most payments
LOCAL TRANSPORT CARDS:
We
did good research on local transport options and bought necessary
travel passes. TICKETS HAVE TO BE VALIDATED/TIME STAMPED to
avoid huge fines. We had a good map of the transport network and
options specific for our itinerary. I've given details in the report
of each part.
LANGUAGE:
We
learned some travel vocabulary and common courtesy words in Magyar,
Cesky. We do already know a little German to get by. It's highly
presumptuous to expect to get by with English alone and I'll give
details in the report of each part.
We downloaded google translate app for all these languages to be used offline.
We downloaded google translate app for all these languages to be used offline.
With
this general intro over, now I'll start with the Budapest part of our
trip.
BUDAPEST TRIP REPORT:
DAY 1, November 17, 2017, Friday:
Meeting up at Budapest Airport
Ferihegy:
We
were flying in from different places.
I arrived at Terminal 2B at 9.30 am, went
through passport control, collected my bag and waited in the area
just outside. There were plenty of chairs
Son
was flying Houston-Toronto-Vienna-Budapest; cleared passport control
before boarding the Budapest flight at Vienna, from within the
Schengen common border landed at Terminal 2A Budapest airport
at 10.45 am. He had only a cabin bag and walked in search of me as we
had planned, saw me seated at the area outside Terminal 2B. We
met up easily!
We
knew the public transport options. It is 21km from airport to our
apartment at the Gozdu Udvar, we could take 100E Bus to Deak
Ferenc ter, then walk 800m. It is a 900 forint ticket, around 3euros.
305 forints=1 euro
There
is an "official" taxi company, Fö Taxi at the airport.
They have a booth inside the terminal, and will get you to the
city center for about 6000-8000 HUF (€22-30 depending on exchange
rate and distance).
PUBLIC TRANSPORT:
TICKETS/PASSES: We can purchase
tickets or a travel pass from the BKK's customer service points or
machines. we can use our Metro ticket to transfer to a different
Metro , but cannot use a single ticket to transfer between buses and
Metros. Every
ticket has to be validated,
immediately upon entry into a bus or tram or just
before entry to the tracks of the metro. HUGE FINES OTHERWISE.
Travel
cards or public transit passes do not have to be validated
every time. Details can be found at:
http://www.bkv.hu/en/travel_cards
Among
the normal passes there is an extremely cost-effective group
travel pass. 24 Hour Group Travel Card Valid
for 24 hours from the indicated date and time (month, day, hour,
minute) for an unlimited number of trips, To be used by up to 5
passengers traveling together.
Price:
HUF 3 300 (10.5 euros), obviously advantageous as one single ticket
350; pack of 10: 3000; if you buy from driver 450 forints for single ticket.
The
BKK service and info point was right ahead of us, so we
bought a 24 hour group card. We had to give a time for the agent to
punch in, so we gave 1pm as the start time.
Airport Pickup:
Our
accommodation had offered airport pickup for flat 25 euros.
They wanted our flight details and phone number. As explained before
we were arriving by different flights and it complicated matters. Our
phone did not have roaming too. We told them to be at the airport by
11.30. Son was able to log in to the airport wifi and use skype to
call their phone and tell them to meet us at Terminal 2B
arrivals area. They came up in 5 minutes, meanwhile son had drawn
local money from the ATM there. We were soon on our way and arrived
at our reception.
After checkin, the receptionist walked us to our apartment across the road in another building.
Gozsdu-udvar Apartments:
Gozsdu-udvar ( Gozsdu
Courtyard) comprises seven buildings and their courtyards in the 7th
district of Budapest, The building complex was built in
1901 The neighbourhood is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. All the
7 original buildings were part of the Jewish Ghetto that
existed from November 1944 to January 1945. Today it is well known of
cafés, bars, pubs, galleries, exclusive shops. We found the location convenient and apartment spacious
Reception
timings are from 8am to 2am. We needed to arrange a taxi to Keleti
station at 6.45 am for our morning train to Prague at 7.30am,
when the reception staff will not be around. We also wanted the
same transfer service for the penultimate day of our trip 10 days
later to pick us up at Keleti station and drop us at our airport
hotel. It's hardly 3 km to the station and regular taxi
costs around 5 euros. The girl said that they had booked one
for a customer and it did not turn up on time. The private
transfer service they use for airport pickup/drop is reliable but
they do not take up smaller distances. They'll charge 20 euros!
We decided to think it through and then confirm.
We
had some home made tortillas, tomato relish and cashew sweets,
packed our day bag with our travel pass and started off on our sight seeing agenda.
We had circled relevant stations on the transport map and printed it out. It came in mighty useful.
packed our day bag with our travel pass and started off on our sight seeing agenda.
We had circled relevant stations on the transport map and printed it out. It came in mighty useful.
Hungarian State Opera (Magyar Állami Operaház):
Our
first target was Hungarian
State Opera Magyar Állami Operaház
Deak Ferenc ter is less than 500m from our apt, we walked up. (Deak is pronounced de, ack, not to rhyme with teak by the way) It's a complicated
metro station because three lines intersect.
We
looked for metro 1, checked the direction we needed... toward Mexicol
ut, got in and got out at Opera station.
Hungarian
State Opera Magyar Állami Operaház has Stunning interior, English tours are at 2, 3, 4 pm; Tickets can be purchased in the entrance
hall of the Opera House, any time before the tours. HUF
2.990; Photo ticket: HUF 500,-/camera; Mini concert HUF
690,-/person. We were in at 2.15, so could only make the 3 pm tour.
We enjoyed the lovely foyer. The tour was quite delayed, but quite
interesting.
There were huge crowds and many many different groups being herded around. They did not check the camera pass or mini concert ticket, seems to be an honor system.
In Opera Garnier in Paris, they allow self guided tours...here we spent around almost 2 hours waiting around... kind of ate into our limited sight seeing time!
The mini concert...
There were huge crowds and many many different groups being herded around. They did not check the camera pass or mini concert ticket, seems to be an honor system.
In Opera Garnier in Paris, they allow self guided tours...here we spent around almost 2 hours waiting around... kind of ate into our limited sight seeing time!
The mini concert...
Basilica of St Stephen:
We
got back to the same metro station, asked the kiosk operator Servoos (Hello),
Istavan basilica? And she indicated 1 stop. We took the mtro in the opposite direction, got out after one stop
and the Basilica was right in front.
Fifty
years in the making, the Basilica of St Stephen is Budapest's largest
church. It is dedicated to St. Stephen, the first Christian king of
Hungary. His right hand, the country's most important relic, is
enshrined in one of the church's chapels. I'll add the video we captured when the relic was lit up
Because
of the vicinity of the Danube huge foundations had to be constructed
that resulted in an underground cellar almost as large as the
subsurface building.
Many art treasures and precious documents survived down there during the second world war.
Many art treasures and precious documents survived down there during the second world war.
We
can travel by elevator or walk up 302 steps to the terrace around the
dome from where we can enjoy a panoramic view of Budapest. We asked
the priest but he indicated they had closed the lift at 3.30.
We
walked out after some serene moments inside the church.
We
wanted to see the fat policeman statue, but lost the way. We walked on toward Erzsébet tér (Elisabeth
Square)
Erzsébet tér (Elisabeth Square):
Elisabeth Square, one of the largest green spaces in central Pest, was expanded in the early 2000s and now borders busy Déak Ferenc Square. The square's most interesting sight is the monumental Danube Fountain a beautiful fountain built and designed by the Hungarian architect Miklós Ybl in 1880-1883.The fountain shows a statue of Danubius, who personifies the river Danube, standing on a dolphin. Below him are three female figures, allegorical representations of tributaries of the Danube: Tisza, Dráva and Sava.
Michael Jackson Memorial Tree:
We
saw Michael
Jackson Memorial Tree...during his 1994 visit to shoot
“HIStory” album the King of Pop stayed in the Royal
Suite of the Kempinski Hotel Corvinus Budapest, with
windows overlooking Erzsébet Square. MJ’s Magyar
fans camped out around the tree in the square’s corner directly
beneath the Royal Suite, and the superstar greeted them from
his window Michael Jackson returned to Budapest twice
amid the 1996 “HIStory” world tour and stayed at the hotel. When
news of Michael Jackson’s untimely death spread on June
25th of 2009, his heartbroken fans returned to the
corner of Erzsébet Square and held an impromptu vigil. Michael
Jackson Memorial Tree has become a permanent landmark,
We
saw the Budapest Eye spinning.
We
were feeling hungry, walked back to our apt which was close,
collecting some grocery(milk, yogurt, fruit juice, bananas, grapes
and some chocolates) on the way from the Prima supermarket nearby.
Our
intention was to go out after dinner to Hosok Ter and then to Keleti
to do a recce for our early morning train trip a day later. I should
have bought the ticket from the czech railway site but by mistake I
had bought the online tickets from BKK site. The Czech site allows
printing at home and this has been accepted by BKK only this year.
Hungarian site requires the ticket to be collected from machine at train stations. We
also wanted to arrange for our taxi pickup from hotel to train
station. We were sleepy and wound up for the day without doing these
pending chores.
This report continues here with the account of our day 2:
This report continues here with the account of our day 2:
VIDEOS of the whole trip:
Whole album with all Budapest, Prague, Austria Videos is here:
Individual video links are as follows:
Budapest 1:( Airport taxi ride, Gozdu udvar apartment,
Budapest 1:( Airport taxi ride, Gozdu udvar apartment,
Hungarian State Opera House - Magyar Állami Operaház, Hungarian Parliament, Chain bridge)
Budapest 2: Buda castle, Fisherman's bastion etc:
Prague:
Salzburg, Fuschl am see:
Vienna, Melk Abbey, Wachau valley, Durnstein:
Trains:
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