How to Plan an International Trip: Travel Tales and Tips : Iceland Trip Report, Day 4: Fjadrargljufur Canyon, Svartifoss, Jökulsárlón

DAY 4 Monday Sep 2, 2019:

Dyrholaey:

Our first stop was Dyrholaey, a promontory standing 120 meters high over the ocean. This is a summer breeding paradise for birdlife including the Puffins. On the top, there is a white lighthouse. From there we can see an unbroken view of glaciers, black sand beach with silver tides, and an enormous lava arch rising in the ocean.

We can go to the lighthouse on the top, but then we'll need a 4WD, so we went to the lower parking,

The drive itself as beautiful

On this spot, we had great views over the black beach, a couple of stone formations and even some birds... missed the puffins nesting (which can be seen only May-August).

We drove on

Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach:

Then we went on to the famous Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach. The black sand was formed by the eroded volcanic rocks. Columns of basalt dramatically stand on the beach forming a wall like a surreal gigantic sculpture.

Need to keep an eye on the ocean at all times since there are sneaker waves that hit suddenly and have claimed peoples life recently.

To the right we can see the stunning Dyrhólaey Peninsula with an arch and rocks jutting into the sea.

Vik:

We then drove on to Vik.

Vik is a small fishing village in front of the ocean with stellar sea views. We saw the landmark red-roofed church that sits on the hill overlooking this area.

We bought some provisions at the supermarket, the mall has very clean free restrooms (Dyrholaey and Reynisfjara both have pay restrooms... 200 ISK). We then drove on.

Fjadrargljufur canyon:

Next stop for the day was the Fjadrargljufur canyon.

Fjaðrárgljúfur is a massive canyon, about 100 meters deep and about 2 kilometres long. The canyon has sheer walls, and is serpentine and narrow. The bedrock in Fjaðrárgljúfur is mostly palagonite from cold periods of the Ice Age and is thought to be about two million years old.

The river Fjaðrá has its source in the mountain Geirlandshraun and falls off the heath edge in this canyon until it makes it down into Skaftá river. Fjaðrá has changed a lot in the course of time. Today Fjaðrá is often rather low in water and therefore hikers can safely choose to walk inside the canyon.

However, wading is necessary fairly often. Deep in the canyon there are waterfalls so one needs to walk the same way back. Most people choose to walk along a walking path up on the canyon's edge while simultaneously enjoying the view above the canyon.

At Fjadrargljufur there are two areas to park. One side is on all paved roads, and takes you to the side furthest from the waterfall, and is steeper hike up to the canyon. The other entrance is on a dirt/gravel road to a parking spot nearest to the waterfall side of the canyon. From there it is a 5 minute walk or so down to the canyon.

We took the paved road and parked. The canyon snakes up towards a waterfall. The path is well prepared with plastic grid boards/net matting and railings. There are 3 stops (viewing platforms) on the about 1 km long track (single way). Two quite early on the track (but uphill) and the third at the end of the canyon. Saw 2 people skid and fall … the loose gravel is slippery in places.

After seeing the water fall we made our way back.

[From the car park, if you instead go down a bit to the bridge, you can creep under the bridge and walk around the river at the base of the canyon . It's vertical, but well-designed for anyone of any hiking abilities.]

We drove on.

Saw a pretty water fall, pulled up and had our picnic lunch there. Near the bubbling brook.

We were driving to the Skaftafell national park next. Along the drive there, had multiple pull outs to stop at and take pictures of the glacier and snow capped mountains.

This is the Skeiðarárjökull glacier, the outlet glacier flowing down from the south part of Vatnajökull ice cap. Between the mountain Lómagnúpur in the west and Skaftafell in the east.

Skaftafell National Park:

Next stop was Skaftafell National Park.

Some great trails begin at Skaftafell Visitor Centre:

Skaftafellsjökull - an easy 3.7 km (2.3 mi) hike with impressive views of Skaftafellsjökull glacier.

Sjónarnípa - this 6.4 km (4 mi) hike includes some challenging sections.

Svartifoss and Sjónarnípa - a 7.4 km (4.6 mi) hike with some challenging sections.

Bæjarstaðarskógur - a challenging 15.8 km (9.8 mi) circular hike through sensational ravines and the beautiful birch woods at Bæjarstaðarskógur. Not fully way-marked.

Kristínartindar - a difficult 17.9 km (11.12 mi) circular hike to the top of the Kristínartindar ridge. This trail is usually closed from spring through June due to thawing ice.

Morsárjökull - a challenging 20.9 km (13 mi) hike to the glacial lake at the Morsárjökull glacier.

Kjós - a challenging 29.8 km (18 mi) hike - the part of the trail which leads up from the birch forests at Bærjarstaðarskógur is not well-defined.

There are 2 popular hikes... first is to Skaftafell Glacier head. the 2nd to Svartifoss Waterfall. If you go to the right of the visitor center you hike to the glacier, if you go to the left, you hike the mountains/waterfalls. Both are worth doing. The 2nd is more uphill but the views of surrounding area and waterfall are stunning. Or, if you are and advanced hiker you can do a loop that goes to both

We decided to do the Svartifoss hike; it is listed as easy because the trail is carpeted with large plastic mesh panels, which prevents erosion and makes the path stable.. but there is a good steep incline to get up to it. Not easy for anyone out of shape.

Also, as you are walking down to the base of the waterfall the path changes and becomes a rough trail than the carefully maintained path you had till that point. Very steep, lots of mud and big rocks. Comes as a surprise after the well maintained path!

Svartifoss means Black Falls. Stórilækur flowing from Vatnjökull glacier, not far the mountain peaks of Kristínartindar, feeds Svartifoss.

The waterfall tumbles down 20 metres (80ft) over a cliff which is bordered on both sides by tall black basalt columns, resembling pipes of a giant organ, Columns like these form in a lava flow that cools very slowly, forming these hexagonal shapes The waterfall is in a lush green area where birch and rowan trees grow well, the dramatic mountains and glacial landscapes of Vatnajökull National Park surround the area.

The hike to Svartifoss, starting from the Visitor Centre in Skaftafell, is about 2 kilometres (one way). On the way to Svartifoss you come across three other waterfalls; Þjofafoss (Thieves’ Fall), Hundafoss (Dogs’ Fall) and Magnusarfoss (the Falls of Magnus).

Once you get to Svartifoss there is a small bridge close to the waterfall that allows you to get closer.

On the bridge...

Decided not to do the loop as time was creeping by. Returned to the trailhead the same way we went.

Svínafellsjökull View Point:

Resumed our drive.

Rattled along a 2 km gravel road after a short turn off the ring road, very slowly & carefully avoiding major pits

to reach Svínafellsjökull View Point.

Svínafellsjökull pig mountain glacier’ is approx. is 1,000 years old. Sitting in a dreamy landscape, with its deep, impressive crevasses and formations Svínafellsjökull has been a shooting location for many Hollywood movies and TV shows like Batman begins, Interstellar and The Game of Thrones.

Stunning glacier lake and glacier itself.

There was another stop at a stunning glacier

Jökulsárlón:

Jökulsárlón 'Glacier's-River-Lagoon' was our next stop, and it’s the crown jewel of the day. glacier lagoon filled with icebergs. its stunning beauty.

Our cruise in the lagoon was scheduled for the next day. So we just enjoyed the lagoon in the evening sunset before we moved to our accommodation... private room at the HI Hostel, Hofn.