NOV 17, 2021, WEDNESDAY:

Cappadocia is high on all tourist lists as the landscapes so strange that they look like they have been fashioned by mischievous elves. But in reality, it is the work of wind and water slowly whittling away the rock.

Humans have settled in this area since at least the Bronze Age and have left their own mark on this wacky moonscape by burrowing into the soft volcanic rock to live.

The star tourist attractions are the Cappadocian villages, carved out of the hillsides; the Byzantine-era rock-cut churches with dazzling frescoes; and the labyrinthine underground cities where early Christians once hid from invaders. Hot air balloons rides over the valleys are very popular and must-do activity. Balloons usually take off early in the morning—about 5:00 to 5:30am,in summer—because the wind conditions are best around sunrise.

Our hotel owner had emailed us offering to book for us... we were concerned about safety and skill of the pilot and took his recommendation. It was 70 euros with Flower Balloons Being November, sunrise being later, it was a comfortable 6 am pickup instead of the 4am in peak summer. We saw and heard the van stop outside our window, the guy ran in, knocked on our door and then went to collect 2 others from our hotel. It was biting cold, temperature below 0C, we were warmly attired in layers, with thermal inners , sweater and puffer jacket. wool cap. Unfortunately our copassengers were not ready the van drove round and round, giving a wakeup call and then again and again till they got ready to board.

The launch site was a stone's throw away but we had spent 45 min and more collecting lazy people!!. There were several balloons getting ready and some even in the air. We watched transfixed The sight and sounds of the burner lighting up when the propane tank was opened and closed and heating the air to inflate and straighten the balloons was awesome.

By heating the air inside the balloon with the burner, it becomes lighter than the cooler air on the outside. This causes the balloon to float upwards, Obviously, if the air is allowed to cools, the balloon begins to slowly come down. Pilots use turning vents in the side of the balloon to rotate it 360 degrees

Our Large balloon had baskets split into compartments for three or four people, giving everyone a fantastic view. there are foot holes in the side of the basket so passengers can climb in and out. No foothold on the side and the sides are quite high as you can see. They put a step ladder to climb in from the ground... had to jump in to the basket.[getting out after the ride was only by vaulting out. I managed with son helping me up from inside and a helper guy giving me a hand outside.!!]

Hot Air Balloon burner is essentially the ‘engine’ of the balloon. It is fixed to a metal frame attached above the basket under the mouth of the envelope. The burner mixes liquid propane from pressurised gas tanks with oxygen and ignites it. The pilot pulls a small valve which fires the burner and aims the flame into the mouth of the balloon to heat the air inside.

Our ride was from 7-8 and we enjoyed it thoroughly.

It had been great fun watching the valleys and the other balloons.

The landing was on a trailer in an open field . Our pilot had informed about squating and crouching with our head down, holding on to supports if he said 'SIT'. Actually he said' when I say.... but it applies only for bumpy landings. our landing was smooth very well coordinated by the team on the ground. So we remained standing normally when the balloon landed smoothly on the trailer. For the whole ride, the pilot was on his walkie talkie communicating with his ground crew. They coordinate with other pilots so that there are no colliding into each other.

.We disembarked ... no ladder this time, all the athletic ones vaulted out, I got out with help from son and one of the crew

We were given a glass of a sparkling sourcherry juice and a certificate of our ride and dropped at our hotel.

after breakfast we drove to Göreme Open air museum.

TURKEY MUSEUM PASS [15 DAYS]

Instead of buying individual tickets, bought Turkey 15 day pass for 600 liras. It was so handy on all our museum visits rest of our trip... saved money and time lining up. Only at Galata towers we lined up despite the pass.

Göreme Open air museum

HISTORY

The Göreme Open Air Museum UNESCO Heritage site is the #1 attraction with over 1 million visitors every year.

It occupies a small section, perhaps just 5%, of the river valley known as Göreme Valley.

The Göreme Valley is one kilometer long, beginning at the Göreme Open Air Museum and extending northwest where it opens into a broad, sandy valley. The broader valley is filled with many churches, chapels, and refractories. Göreme Valley contains at least 60 churches, 45 refractories, hundreds of burials graves, and countless agricultural rooms. Several other painted churches are located near Göreme Valley, such as El Nazar Church, Saklı (Hidden) Church, Ayvalı Monastery, and Zindan Church. The high density of carved churches suggests Göreme Valley was a hive of religious activity.

In pre-Christian Roman times, Göreme Valley was a burial location with rock-carved tombs. As the Roman Empire Christianized, the burial spaces became Christian in character.

Then, around the 800's, monks formed small monasteries in the area to pursue the contemplative life. The valley had several advantages for monastic living. Spiritually, the area was considered "sacred" because previous saints were buried there. Geologically, the surreal, desert-like topography created a mystical, spiritual context, a common feature in Byzantine monasteries. And practically, the churches and living spaces were easy to construct.

Once Göreme Valley became populated with monks and hermits, lay Christians came as pilgrims. They journeyed here to visit the monks, receive prayer, or behold a holy relic. The influx of pilgrims enhanced the sacred reputation of the region. This, in turn, meant more people wanted to build a memorial chapel or monastery here. Thus, the three motivations of sacred burial, monastic life, and spiritual pilgrimage reinforced each other.

The Göreme Open Air Museum includes, in a very compact area, 15 churches and 11 refectories. According to best estimates, all the churches were built in the 11th century

Walking inside was a pretty straight forward route clearly marked. I had read quite a few incidents of people falling and getting hurt...we need to wear shoes with good grip

The churches can be classified by three different types of interior art styles—plastered (fully painted), paneled (a few squares with images), and basic (geometric shapes with red lines).

The most impressive churches— Dark (Karanlık), Sandal (Çarıklı), and Apple (Elmalı)—are fully plastered and painted. These so-called "Column Churches" feature columns of a cross-in-square floorplan. Their uniform style suggests the same people made and painted all three. Most likely, the master and his team painted Dark Church around 1000 AD, then members of that team painted Sandal Church and Apple Church. The latter churches are similar in shape, color, and scenes to the Dark Church, but their paintings are not as accurate or detailed.

DARK CHURCH

REFECTORIES/MONK'S CELLS

Göreme Valley was abandoned around 1100 AD when Seljuk Turks occupied the region. The area became a Turkish village community. Farmers carved holes into the floors to serve as winepresses and ovens.

1930-1970, Turks had minimal interest in preserving Greek culture, as the country had just fought Greek invaders to gain their national independence. During this time, some rooms were used for agricultural purposes. For example, Dark Church became a dovecote to harvest pigeon manure (which actually helped to preserve the excellent paintings)

.In 1985, the Göreme Open Air Museum was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site to conserve and properly display Cappadocia’s best cave churches. To facilitate thousands of tourists each day, the Turkish government built roads, parking lots, and shops along with the Open Air Museum.

THIS IS THE Buckle Church Just outside the museum exit on the right;

it is the largest of the cave churches at Göreme – restored in the 1960s. The frescoes give a comprehensive account of the life of Christ – from the Annunciation, through the Baptism and Miracles, ending with the Passion, Resurrection, and Ascension.

Parking lot below... they charged 10 liras, there was a board also giving the parking fee details per size.

At Pasabag , we had been a little scared to see big notices about not leaving valuables in the car. That's kind of remote.

In all other places parking was free mostly, or there as an unofficial attendant who demaned gratuity

There are 2 popular tours RED TOUR AND GREEN TOUR to cover highlights.

we tried to replicate the green tour, went to the Panaroma outlook and then on to Derinkuyu underground city and Uchisar, Paradise valley

Göreme Panaroma

Easy drive close to Open air museum... short trail with many viewing platforms and lovely souvenir shops, cafe etc

Here's the magic charm to ward off evil eye...

Pottery specimens...

Derinkuyu underground city

The underground city of Derinkuyu was built around the 7th or 8th century BCE,to protect its inhabitants from wars and religious persecutions, it housed 20,000 people. It was equipped with large stone doors to prevent invaders, an ingenious ventilation system, as well as a well to ensure drinking water for all citizens. It included a multitude of rooms used as kitchens, bedrooms and warehouses for food storage. The city also ensured complete autonomy from the outside world by having a school, church and cellar for the preparation of wine and oil. It also contained an adequate number of livestock. It is still unknown which civilization exactly built the city, and although about 20 underground levels have been explored to date, only eight can be visited.

Derinkuyu was once connected with other underground cities through mile-long tunnels and is one of the many underground settlements found in this area. over 600 entrances to the Derinkuyu Underground City have been found in courtyards and private residences around the city ... so it was probably not for permanent residence but was more like war shelter.

There were some spotlights in the otherwise dark labyrinth, just when my eyes got accustomed to the dark, there was a piercing light around the corner to be followed by dark again. I stumbled along for a little while, a kid in a group coming along fell down and started wailing . I felt I had had enough to sample what the life must have been Told son to go on, I'll wait in the car. He decided to turn back as well.

We drove homeward, paused at Uçhisar and Paradise valley

Did not feel the need to climb the natural fortress Uçhisar . It's the highest point in the region and sunset views are popular.

Paradise valley was beautiful... camel rides were being offered, the poor camels were pacing restlessly round and round a peg to which they were tied up