NOV 27, 2021, SATURDAY:

SUMMARY: Drove back to Izmir airport with rain in some parts of the way. Took the flight to Istanbul SAW, picked up a taxi from the lines, got to our hotel. Checked in

Checked out of the hotel at 7 am, kept the key on the table, pulled the door shut and went down. Found the door locked.

We had already told the owner about our early departure. We called him on the skype, he was giving instructions on how to open a side door. This was the owner's son. Then the owner came down and opened the reception. We had already opened the side door. Anyway, we started our drive.

PEGASUS had sent an email the previous day changing our flight from 3.30 to 7.30 pm. We found it unacceptable, called them on skype and changed it to 1.30. Our original flight was into IST. This was into SAW. We had not noticed it when they sent the changed booking. We were planning to take IST 12 shuttle into Beyazit.

It was raining quite a bit and the road was slick. We drove slow and carefully. Had a meal in our car and then returned it at the airport.

IZMIR Sign using the famous lucky charm design at the airport...

We checked in and noticed we were flying into SAW only when we looked at the boarding pass. From SAW the HAVAIST goes only to Taksim. we can take a tram to Kabatas, just one stop, then take the T1 to Beyazit.

We decided to take a taxi. We had heard horror stories of overcharging. We went out, talked to the guys, they said it'll be around 250 liras and on the meter. we agreed. The driver drove crazy, talked non stop and smoked. We looked at the route he took, it was much more north than necessary and then he was coming down. Could not argue as he was constantly complaining about the traffic... the traffic was horrendous. He asked for extra money for tunnel. we refused. Anyway he dropped us at the hotel for 300 liras

TOM SQUARE BOUTIQUE HOTEL, BEYAZIT

I had left a small packet under the bed of our previous apartment with the freebis from the Turkish airlines etc, thinking we'll go back to the same apt. This time we got the one on the lower floor. We liked it and said yes. But my packet was gone!!

We were just happy to have made it without too much hassle. Went to BIM, stocked up, ate our meal and wound up.

NOV 28, 2021, SUNDAY:

SUMMARY: Sultanahmet square, Hagia sofya [had a calm and serene time inside to our delight]: ARASTA BAZAAR [excellent quality], MOSAIC PALACE MUSEUM [great views], Galata tower [amazing], Beyazit.

In the morning we took the tram to Sultanahmet square. We visited the tomb of the Sultan who had got the Blue Mosque built

The türbe (tomb) of Sultan Ahmet I

The türbe (tomb) of Sultan Ahmet I, the Blue Mosque’s great patron, is on the north side of the mosque facing Sultanahmet Park. Ahmet, who had ascended to the imperial throne aged 13, died in 1617 aged only 27; his türbe was constructed between 1617 and 1619 and like the mosque, features fine İznik tiles.

Buried with Ahmet are his wife, Kösem, who was strangled to death in the Topkapı Harem, and his sons, Sultan Osman II (r 1618–22), Sultan Murat IV (r 1623–40) and Prince Beyazıt (murdered by order of Murat).

Sultanahmet Square:

The Sultanahmet Square, also known as Hippodrome is surrounded by the famous Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia Museum, Topkapi palace and Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts,

Once being a Byzantium hippodrome, the square itself hosts the famous historic places and sights that include; the Egyptian Obelisk, the Serpentine Column, the Colossus or the Column of Costantine Porphyrgenitus and the German Fountain.

The 4th century Hippodrome was built by the Constantine the Great, after his declaration of Istanbul as the capital of the Roman Empire. It was located in what we now call Sultanahmet Square.

The hippodrome was a lively place during the Byzantium period, where the races take place. The racers were turning around the hippodrome seven times to win the race. The word hippodrome comes from the Greek hippos (ἵππος), horse, and dromos (δρόμος), path or way

Hagia Sophia (Turkish: Ayasofya Kilisesi

We entered the mosque and had a serene time observing its features as there was much less crowd than the previous time.

There is already details on the mosque in the report of our 1st visit. Little additional details here

MOSAICS

Restorers have attempted to maintain a balance between both Christian and Islamic cultures. In particular, much controversy rests upon whether the Islamic calligraphy on the dome of the cathedral should be removed, in order to permit the underlying Pantocrator mosaic of Christ as Master of the World to be exhibited (assuming the mosaic still exists).

The Imperial Gate mosaic is located in the tympanum above that gate, which was used only by the emperors when entering the church. Based on style analysis, it has been dated to the late 9th or early 10th century.

Altar (Mihrab)

Situated in the apse of Hagia Sophia, the altar which indicates the qibla is used by imams who lead the prayers. This semicircular niche is ornamented with tiles and verses from Quran. Both sides of it are with two giant bronze candlesticks, brought from a cathedral in Buda druing the Hungarian Campaign of Suleyman the Magnificient.

The first altar of Hagia Sophia had a canopy which broke in 558 and replaced by a silver one. The altar and its canopy was looted by the Crusaders in 1204. However, while it was taken by the Venetians by a ship, the ship opened and the Holy Altar sank into the sea near the island of Marmara. It has never been removed from the sea

Hagia Sophia is famous for the light that reflects everywhere in the interior of the nave, giving the dome the appearance of hovering above. This effect was achieved by inserting forty windows around the base of the original structure. Moreover, the insertion of the windows in the dome structure reduced its weight

Sultan’s Imperial Loge

Used by the Sultans during religious days and ceremonies, the Imperial Loge was made by Fossati Brothers in the 19th century. The loge is located on the left of the altar. The columns supporting the octagonal shaped terrace belong to Byzantine era.

The floor is predominantly made up of Proconnesian marble, quarried on Proconnesus (Marmara Island) in the Propontis (Sea of Marmara). This was the main white marble used in the monuments of Constantinople .

Originally, under Justinian's reign, the interior decorations consisted of abstract designs on marble slabs on the walls and floors as well as mosaics on the curving vaults. Of these mosaics, the two archangels Gabriel and Michael are still visible in the spandrels (corners) of the bema.

Lustration urns

Two huge marble lustration (ritual purification) urns were brought from Pergamon during the reign of Sultan Murad III. They are from the Hellenistic period and carved from single blocks of marble.

Then we walked in the Sultanahmet square

GERMAN FOUNTAIN

The Egyptian Obelisk

It is the famous of the three erected monuments in the heart of the square. The monument was brought from Egypt in the year 390 and could only be erected in its present place within 31 days. The monument originally dates back to 1450 BC and was made for the Egyptian Pharaoh Tutmosis III. We can say that it is one of the oldest monuments in Istanbul.

The monument stands on a marble pedestal and it depicts the Byzantine Emperor Teodosius I and the people watching the races. It is also possible to see how the obelisk was erected on the reliefs.

The Serpentine Column

The column is a talisman brought from the Delphi Temple in Apollo to protect the city from the insect invasion. You’ll see three snakes that are intertwined. Their heads heads severed. The only remaining snake-head is exhibited at the Istanbul Archaeology Museums.

WALLED OBELISK

ARASTHA BAZAAR

The Arasta Bazaar on the southeast side of Istanbul's Blue Mosque is lovely with its many shops selling carpets, kilims, Turkish tiles, apparel and souvenirs.

An arasta is a series of shops built beneath or near a mosque. Rent from the shops provides money for the maintenance and repair of the mosque.

These shops were empty and derelict for many years until the tourism boom of the late 1980s and 1990s convinced those in charge to restore and rent them. Now the Arasta Bazaar (marked on some maps as the southwestern continuation of Kabasakal Caddesi) is among Istanbul's most-visited tourist markets.

At its northeastern end by Mimar Mehmet Ağa Caddesi are several open-air cafes, snack stands andrestaurants,

Then we visited the Great Palace Mosaic Museum near the Arasta

Great Palace Mosaic Museum

The mosaics dated between 450-550 AD unearthed in excavations in the northeastern section of the cloister in Eastern Roman Grand Palace in 1935, are exhibited in the Great Palace Mosaics Museum, They do not have religious content. The depictions are taken from daily life, nature and mythology

The mosaic grains of limestone, terracotta and colored stones have an average size of 5mm.

We bought some souvenirs and gifts

Bought oregano and Maja spice powders for our use.

Then we took the tram to Galata tower

GALATA TOWER

Considered among the oldest towers in the world and one of the symbols of Istanbul, Galata Tower (Galata Kulesi) was included in the UNESCO World Heritage Temporary List in 2013.

Galata Tower was first built by the Byzantine Emperor Justinianos in 507-508 AD.

It is a nine-story building after the high ground floor. The windows on the cylindrical body are brick-knit circular arches. The development of the last two floors just below the cone roof is emphasized by the profiled moldings surrounding the cylindrical body. There is a observation balcony with metal ornamented network that surrounds the floor under the cone roof. On the lower floor, there are round arches sitting on deep niche piers and brick-knit circular arched windows.

Today, it is observed that the part of the building up to the third floor has a Genoese character and the other floors have an Ottoman character. The building is used today as a museum with exhibition areas.

We had to queue up though we had the museum pass. The views were great