DAY 17: DEC 27 MONDAY
Valparaíso, Chile, known as the Jewel of the Pacific. is a tapestry of mesmerizing chaos, old architecture, ramshackle funiculars, colorful street art, and the beautiful Pacific coast. Home to 45 historic hills, it is Santiago’s bohemian hideaway, a favorite among artists, philosophers, and romantics. In 2003, it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site.
It's located 100 km north east of Santiago.
LOGISTICS OF DAY TRIP
One can easily get a bus to Valparaiso from the bus terminal in Pajaritos in Santiago. While there are many bus companies driving the route, the most famous companies are Turbus and Pullman. Buses for Valparaiso leave every 15 minutes from 6:00am to 10:30pm every day. Travel time takes about 1.5 to 2 hours depending on the traffic.
We took the metro and reached the Pajaritos station, it was a short walk to the bus terminal
There are many ticket desks inside the bus terminal, each one dedicated to a company. We bought return tickets at the turbus counter... return at 7 pm from Valparaiso... we need not have got the return ticket... we wasted some 45 min as we were at the Valparaiso bus terminal at 6.15. We could have easily bought ticket for the immediate departure bus there instead of sitting around. They did not let us board earlier buses of Turbus too.
We were on the 9.30 am bus. Sat in the upper deck as we had mentioned our choice at the ticket counter and got appropriate seats
HOW TO ENJOY A WALK IN INTERESTING NEIGHBORHOODS
I'm putting in some stuff we never did in brackets here below... skip to next header if you'd rather get to the actual trip we did...
University, Historical Landmark, Museum
To get here, take the Ascensor Espíritu Santo funicular and work out what you want to see on the map. It clearly depicts the labyrinth of murals scattered around the Cerro Bellavista part of town. Ever since it was unveiled in the 1990s, this open-air museum, if you will, has drawn art aficionados in their droves with its eclectic mix of murals – 20 or so in total. Just wander, taking in the vibrant diversity: a range of abstract kinetic sculptures, impressionistic and surreal styles.
284 Labruyere, Valparaíso, Valparaíso, Chile
Near Plaza Sotomayor, Cerro Alegre is a hip neighborhood with a unique bohemian vibe. The hills are steep, so our top tip is to hop aboard the El Peral funicular. Once you reach the top, you’ll be disgorged onto one of the city’s oldest streets, Paseo Yugoslavo. Wander, admiring the many viewpoints to see spectacular expanses of the bay. As you make your way down the hill, you’ll come across cozy cafes, bars and art galleries, as well as swathes of colorful graffiti and murals.
Valparaíso is known for its cleverly designed public spaces, including the city’s well-thought-out paseos, or avenues. The Paseo Rubén Darío takes you along the beach and coastline. To make the most of this self-guided tour of the city, start at Caleta El Membrillo and make your way to Carvallo beach. When you reach the halfway point, you’ll find a park called Plaza Rubén Darío. Take a break and a breather, enjoying mesmerizing views of the landscape and the Pacific.
Pablo Neruda, Chile’s most renowned, best-loved poet, called Valparaíso home. La Sebastiana Museum was renovated to replicate what his residence looked like, embellished with many of his personal belongings and collectibles, as well as original decor. The self-guided audio tour leads you through his life, with insights into his fascinating background
To reach Cerro Concepcion, take the funicular, known locally as the Ascensor Concepción, and you’ll step out into one of the oldest and most colorful neighborhoods in Valparaíso. You’ll spend hours exploring its winding alleys, happening upon some of the city’s best restaurants and cafes. This area is known for its art, graffiti and lively nightlife. This historic area is a Unesco World Heritage site, an honor bestowed for its plazas, architecture and ocean outlooks.
Up in the north of the city, at the end of Altamirano Avenue, is Playa Torpederas, the city’s most scenic beach. One of only a few in Valparaíso, it can get a bit crowded at times. The water is suitable for swimming but temperatures can get a little icy, and we recommend you come with a picnic lunch. Kayaking and snorkeling are both very popular activities, and here you’ll find Chile’s first lighthouse, Punta Ángeles, which is open to the public – don’t miss a nose-round.
Even if you’re not a history buff, put the Naval and Maritime Museum on your Valparaíso itinerary. It’s blessed with a collection of more than 3,000 artifacts, including uniforms, model ships and war relics, and even a replica pirate ship for kids. The museum focuses on the history of the Chilean Navy, but there are also other exhibits that go beyond the military aspect. With over 17 rooms and numerous permanent exhibits, it’s easy to spend an entire afternoon here ]
WHAT WE DID
PARQUE ITALIA
GOVINDA VEGAN RESTAURANT
Fuente de Neptuno. In 1885 the mythical "NEPTUNO" was installed in the city of Valparaíso, exactly whereToday the monument to Manuel Blanco Encalada stands.
STREET ART IN VALPARAISO... ORIGIN/HISTORY
Valparaiso was a wealthy port and was the Jewel of the Pacific in the 2nd half of the 19th century. Ships from Europe on their way to the west coast of the USA would go round the tip of South America and dock here. Valpo was the richest city in South America. But when Panama canal opened in 1914, Valpo's decline started.
Its fortunes turned for the worse when Augustus Pinochet who was born in Valpo became a dictator. At that juncture, Pablo Neruda, a famous resident 'disappeared. But his inspiration drove artists to paint messages on the city's walls and carry on a protest against the dictator.
That was the origin of the Street art... began in earnest in Valpo during the Pinochet dictatorship 1973-1990, as a form of protest. Though such art was illegal, it could be done clandestinely. Those who were caught often “disappeared.” After democracy was restored, the local government made street art legal, as a form of free expression. Artistic competitions were created, where the winner was given all the tools necessary for more art. People began to hire artists to create unique designs on their buildings.
Besides the general beautification of the city, taggers also respected the art, and random ugly tags disappeared from large swaths of the city, as available surfaces were covered with commissioned art.
PIANO STAIRCASE
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