Friday, December 2, 2016

Russia Trip Report, Day 2: Kremlin

DAY 2, JULY 28, 2012:


Kremlin:


We visited the famous Kremlin on this day.



This 28-hectare (69-acre) fortress, called kreml in Russian, emerged in the 12th century as a wooden encampment, and survived many an invader.

Kremlin is still a citadel, surrounded by unscalable red-brick walls and tightly guarded gates, though the river and moat that once protected its north and east sides were filled in nearly 200 years ago.

These defenses make it all the more magical once we get inside, a world away from the din and modernity beyond.

has a map and when you click on each structure, you get to know what they are and the history

We took the metro to Teatralnaya station, should have taken the Revolutski Ploshchad exit like the previous day. instead took the Teatralnaya Ploshchad exit, landed on the other side of Bolshoi theatre. Took us an hour to cross and reach the Borivitsky gate. Made a second mistake and stood there in the queue for 1/2 hour thinking we can get the tickets for Armoury there. Turned out to be the queue for entering the armoury and the tickets had to be bought at the main Troitsky tower gate. We ran there only to be told all tickets for the day to Armoury have been sold out. We bought tickets for Kremlin grounds and chapels and entered Kremlin thru this Troitsky gate at 11 AM. ... we had to return the next day to see Armoury and our program of Sergiev Posad had to be scrapped as well.

We had read so much about harassment by the Russian police especially at Kremlin... we did not see any such behavior… the police consisted of nice young men who patrolled and minded their business.

This is the Troitsky Gate entrance into Kremlin.




A ticket for visiting the architectural complex of the Cathedral Square costing 350 rubles allows free access to the five museumsCathedrals, the Patriarch's Palace, exhibitions in the Assumption Belfry and One-Pillar Chamber of the Patriarch's Palace.

Our tickets were checked at each place because quite a few people buy only the ticket for entry into grounds.

A nice Russian official at the bell tower entrance told us, “See the exhibition here as well as the Patriarch Palace over there and visit all the 5 Cathedrals your ticket is valid for everything”

One more example of friendly Russians we encountered thru out our trip..

With the ticket they give us nice color pamphlets with illustrations and loads of info on what we get to see at the Patriarch palace, Assumption cathedral and Annunciation cathedrals.

This is the Arsenal – home of the Kremlin Guard, the Arsenal was constructed on Peter the Great’s orders as a massive weapons depot.


Around its exterior are 800 French cannons, captured by the Russians during Napoleon’s disastrous retreat from Moscow

The Senate is an example of neo-classical design, these mustard yellow walls were created by Catherine the Great. It was the location of Lenin's office after the October Revolution, today the Senate is the official Presidential residence.


This building adjacent to the senate houses various administrative departments of the Russian President’s Office

Renovation in progress but the painted facade prevents it being an eyesore!!

Ivan Square: 


On Ivan Square we can admire the Tsar Bell and the Tsar Cannon, famous masterpieces of the Russian casting.

The huge Tsar Cannon and Tsar Bell are two striking and bizarre features of the Kremlin and indeed of Russian history



The cannon, with a 40-ton barrel, was designed in 1586 to defend the Kremlin's Savior Gate, but it has never been fired. The chassis and the cannonballs alongside were built 3 centuries later and give a sense of the enormity of the weapon (though it was designed to fire stones and not cannonballs).

Assumption Cathedral just behind the cannon; Annunciation Cathedral in our left corner

At the back of Assumption Cathedral is The Patriarch’s Palace and the Twelve Apostles’ Church (1653) – as name says, The head of the church lived there. 



Now it has an exposition – we saw some gilded icons carved in wood, houseware, jewelry, tsars’ hunting equipment, ancient furniture and items of ecclesiastical embroidery

Sobornaya Ploshchad (Cathedral Square):


This is the Sobornaya Ploshchad (Cathedral Square). It has 5 Cathedrals.

Church of Annunciation can be seen in the pic below with its gold domes. The white building to the left is Cathedral of the Archangel Michael.
  


The Cathedral of the Annunciation (Russian: Благовещенский собор, or Blagoveschensky Sobor):


 It is located on the southwest side of Cathedral Square, where it connects directly to the main building of the complex of the Grand Kremlin Palace, adjacent to the Palace of Facets.

It was originally the personal chapel for the Muscovite Tsars.The Cathedral was built in 1482, and was where the Tsars were christened and married. Its tiers of tented gables and kokoshniki (pointed arches) are reflective of early Moscow architecture. The most characteristic feature of the building is its nine golden domes, and roof with rich kokoshnik ornamentation

Faded frescoes line the stone walls and columns from marbled floor to painted ceiling. fragments of murals include various biblical themes, heroic figures among other Russian princes and grand dukes. Also striking is the altar area of the floor, consisting of sheets of agate yellow-red jasper

Annunciation means Announcement of Incarnation – March 25th – 9 months before birth of Jesus

The Cathedral of the Annunciation was built as the domestic church of the Grand Dukes and tsars and was connected (along with the Cathedral of the Archangel) by passages to the private quarters of the royal family.

The cathedral was used to celebrate name-days, weddings, baptisms. It was badly damaged during the Revolution. In 1918, the cathedral was closed as a place of worship and now it operates as a museum.



The building behind is the Grans Kremlin palace – AWESOME pics of the interior on the website.

Cathedral of the Archangel Michael:



Also saw the Cathedral of the Archangel Michael, built in 1505 by Italian architect Alevisio Novi . The cathedral holds the tombs of Russia's rulers from Ivan I (1328-41) to Tsar Ivan V (1682-96), Peter the Great's predecessor.

The interior of the church is fittingly somber, its hall of coffins surrounded by small shrines.

Assumption Cathedral –the Cathedral of the Dormition (peaceful and painless death of Mary) (Russian: Успенский Собор, or Uspensky sobor): 


This is the Cathedral of the Assumption (Assumption means Reception of Mary into Heaven)




It’s a white limestone building with scalloped arches topped by chunky golden domes.

Assumption Cathedral, The Cathedral of the Dormition  is a Russian Orthodox church dedicated to the Dormition (death) of the Theotokos (Theotokos is the Greek for god-bearer and is used in reference to Mary the mother of God.).



It is located on the north side of Cathedral Square of the Moscow Kremlin, where a narrow alley separates the north from the Patriarch's Palace with the Twelve Apostles Church. Southwest is Ivan the Great Bell Tower.

 In 1479 this new cathedral was consecrated. The interior was painted with frescoes and adorned with many icons, including the Theotokos of Vladimir and Blachernitissa.

The design of this church, with its five domes, symbolic of Jesus Christ and the Four Evangelists) proved immensely popular, and was taken as a template for numerous other churches throughout Russia

Started in 1475 by Italian architect Aristotle Fiorovanti, this church is the most tourist-friendly of the cathedrals on the square, with detailed English labels on icons and architectural details, and plenty of room for groups.

The church is light and spacious, unlike any of the other churches on the square  or indeed of this period.

Tsars were crowned here, and Patriarchs of the Russian Orthodox Church were inaugurated and buried here  the Patriarch's Seat is built into one of the pillars.

Napoleon's cavalry stabled horses here during their brief occupation of Moscow in 1812.

There is a legend that in the winter of 1941, when the Nazis had already reached the threshold of Moscow, Stalin secretly ordered a service to be held in the Dormition Cathedral to pray for the country's salvation from the invading Germans
 
Soldiers marching in to assemble in the square prior to the parade....



We were fortunate to witness a grand show of parade and music which happens on the last Saturday of each month at 12 noon--we caught it all on video.. we had a great vantage point right in the front, though we joined the crowd only when the parade started...people had been reserving nice spots sitting there, when the parade started they stood up and we squeezed into the gap!!






It was a cool, cloudy day thankfully rain held off, there were just a few drops before the parade. Here's a picture from the net giving an idea of the parade and the whole square: extreme left is the church of Archangel Michael, Church of Annunciation next with the Kremlin Palace at its back, Palace of facets with Assumption cathedral to the right. Ivan the bell tower is not in the pic, it's at the back of the people facing the parade



Tucked in the corner is the small Church of the Deposition of the Robe, built in a more traditional style of the late 15th century, with narrow windows and stained glass, the latter a rarity in Russian churches. It's now a museum of wooden figures and church relics


This white building is the Palace of Facets used for state receptions  only organized prearranged tours are available.


Ivan the Great Bell Tower:




Ivan the Great Bell Tower was built in three stages over 3 centuries, starting in 1505.  It includes three structures: the pillar of the Ivan the Great Bell-Tower, the Uspenskaya (Assumption) Belfry and the Filaret’s Annex.

For centuries Ivan the Great Bell Tower was the tallest structure in all of Russia. Constructed of bright white stone and soaring to a height of over eighty meters, the bell tower was completed in 1600.

In 1812, while retreating from Moscow, Napoleon’s Army blew up the Ivan the Great Bell-Tower ensemble. However, the pillar of the bell-tower survived. The Belfry was completely destroyed and restored in original dimensions in 1814-1815.

Its heaviest and lowest bell is 64 tons (compared to Big Ben's 13.5 tons)

At present, 24 bells of XVI-XVII centuries are located on the bell-tower and belfry.

The Tsar Bell, a masterpiece of the Russian casting of the XVIII century, stands on the stone base to the east of the Ivan-the-Great Bell-Tower. It was cast in 1733-1735 on the order of Empress Anne Ioannovna . In 1735, the Tsar Bell was finally cast. However, it still remained in the molding pit.




In May, 1737, a terrible Troitskiy (Trinity) fire broke out in Moscow and spread to the Kremlin buildings. When the flames on the scarffolding around the bell were being extinguished, cold water fell on the bell itself. The difference in temperature caused it to crack, and a huge piece of 11.5 ton broke off.

In 1836, the Tsar Bell was lifted up from the moulding pit and placed on a stone pedestal by French architect Auguste Montferrant (who built the famous Isaac’s Cathedral in St. Petersburg).

The Tsar Bell is decorated with portraits of Tsar Alexey Mikhailovich and empress Anna Ioannovna,

The Tsar bell is the largest in the world, at 200 tons, 6.1m (20 ft.) high, and 6.6m (22 ft.) in diameter. The bell and cannon remain monuments to Russian ambition and royal excess.

For a weekend in peak tourist season, the crowd was thankfully sparse...

This is the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, a solemn spot where veterans and newlyweds often pay tribute. The cities listed around the tomb are those honored for their valiance and suffering during World War II.



This is Alexander Gardens (Alexandrovsky Sad)





After we emerged from the Kremlin, we wandered through the greenery of Alexander Gardens, which run along the fortress's north wall... 



Had our lunch, went to the Basil's cathedral, heard the lovely Gregorian chants. The Cathderal has dark narrow passages leading to 9 beautiful altars. Our camera video setting was accidentally at low resolution through out our Russian trip and so the grabs are of very poor quality as seen below... such a pity!



 









Here are some pics found online of Basil's cathedral interior:





We should have just walked but went to Biblioteca Lenina metro station for our next target.

Posing with a statue of ...who else.. Lenin. name spelled out in Ruski on the pedestal..



Novodevichy Cemetery:


From the Biblioteca metro station we took the red line and got down at Sportinova. turned right as pointed by an arrow on the exit pillar and walked a a few blocks. Did not see the monastery --a Russian lady asked us what we were looking for ... in Russian....and when we said Novodevichy pointed ahead with a smile. (another example of friendly Russians). Instead of coming to the entrance first, we followed a bus load of Japanese tourists and visited the cemetery (it was awesome, but we felt it was disrespectful to take still pictures there). So again we've only poor quality video grabs of the lovely cemetery...







Clearer pic from the net...





Boris Yeltsin's Memorial...


Here's a T-Shirt buddy... ha, ha! Collecting the fruits fallen on the ground...



Here's a pic from the web to give an idea of what the site is really like...



On our way back, saw this entrance but were too late for entering the monastery



The monastery closes at 6 PM... we came back here on the last day of our trip and managed to visit all the lovely chapels inside after paying the entry of 150 rubles and a camera fee as well

We bought a mineral water bottle and an ice cream at a nearby 'prodiukti' продукты –convenience food store and traced our way back to the metro station



We got on the same direction red line and got down at the next station University… we wanted to go to the Sparrow Hills (Vorobyovy gory) for the views… the route was not too clear but this being the University area—no dearth of students with fluent English. Following their direction, we walked along the tree laden avenue flanking the tall University building with a spire and a star(which is one of Stalin’s 7 buildings).. 

This is the University building. Stalin had made higher education free and available for everyone and thousands had become highly qualified Engineers.





We reached the area where a chair lift car was plying. Bought a single ticket and went down the hill on the chair lift enjoying the views. … youngsters were zipping along on skates and families were relaxing at the Moskva river embankment and on the opposite side the stadium and other landmarks were spread out... lovely sight!

Sparrow Hills (Vorobyovy Gory):







We bought the souvenir photo the chair lift guys had taken and with their guidance, went to the nearby station in the red line…Took the red line upto Park Kukri and from there transferred to central line and reached Kievskaya. Our research had told us this was the starting point for the river tram which winds down the Moskva river – we bought our tickets (450 rubles) from the pier and boarded the boat for a 90-minute cruise on the Moskva river

Moskva river cruise:


It was past 8 PM but the sun sets only after 9. The ride was awesome, covering all the sights as the sun went down and the landmarks lit up like a fairy land. There were even fireworks lighting up the sky… the beautiful Novodevichy Convent, the “wedding cake” Stalinist skyscraper Moscow State University, the Gorky Park, Peter the Great statue, Christ the Saviour Cathedral, Kremlin, St. Basil's Cathedral all floated by—other fancy cruise boats were also on the same route with their boisterous occupants waving at us. We caught the sights in several videos (so again grainy grabs but it was so magical)... we had a great time. 







mmm... a local Sharapova lookalike as co passenger...


 Moskva written in cyrillic alphabet on this boat...







To add to the charm, a big moon rose up in the sky...
















There were some lovely fireworks going off in the sky...




Got out at the last stop Novospassky right across the river from our hotel. We walked along the bridge and ran helterskelter to cross the busy road and returned to our hotel after 10 PM.... ending an awesome day 2 in Moscow

The next post covers the visit to the awesome Diamond Fund and Armoury:
http://adventuretrav.blogspot.com/2016/12/russia-trip-report-day-3-armory-diamond.html

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