Russia Trip Report, Day 8: Novodevichy monastery, Moscow

August 3, Friday, 2012

SAPSAN RIDE BAACK TO MOSCOW:

Collected the ample breakfast from our hotel Roses at 5.30 AM and walked to the Moskva station. As we were entering the station, a security guard stopped us and asked for our passport/visa (he maintained a polite distance and asked in a courteous voice). We were surprised at this request so early in the morning –6am-- there were 3 young men with huge backpacks who had been stopped as well and were standing around. . . Our passport was easily accessible as I had it handy for Sapsan verification (we had carried around only a photocopy on other days)—the guard waved us on at the sight of our documents. 

We caught the 6.45 AM Sapsan without any further incidents. Our seats did not have the huge windows this time(seat nos 27, 28 now versus seats 3, 4 in coach no 4 on the previous journey)—we noticed that the seats that face each other around the table have hardly any leg space and people were sitting cramped, conscious their knee should not knock into the person sitting opposite. 

When we booked online, we could not select seats—probably missed a step. So probably some research is needed to get preferable seats. We had our breakfast and dozed off till we reached Leningradsky in 4 hours flat.

I did not fancy lugging my bag through the central metro line to reach our Moscow hotel Katerina near Paveletskaya. I had not done any research on taking a taxi from the railway station, so we rang up our Moscow hotel from Petersburg the previous evening and accepted their offer of 900 rubles cash for sending us a cab to meet the Sapsan. As we got down from the Sapsan, there were uniformed drivers holding plaque TAXI right at the platform, looking for passengers. Don’t know what rates they may have quoted. We looked for our cab and found him holding our name and got to the hotel after a short drive of 6km. The driver asked for 1000 rubles saying 100 ruble was for parking and we paid up. When we entered the hotel, the girl at the reception was a little miffed that we had paid the driver ourselves and she was running to the entrance to meet the driver who had left by then. We were sure there had been a big markup and hefty commission involved but could not care less as we just wanted to wind up our stay

We checked into our room early by 11.30, repacked bags so that I was ready to leave for New Delhi by the 7.30 PM flight from SVO while son left the next morning for Houston by 10.30 AM flight from DME. Both of us had our return aeroexpress ticket we had bought for 590 rubles.

Novodevichy monastery, Moscow:

We walked to the central line and traveled to Park kul’tury and changed to the red line. Got down at Sportivnaya and walked the familiar 3 blocks and reached Novodevichy Monastyr (New Maidens' Convent).

Located near the Moskva River, this peaceful retreat includes a spectacular 16th-century convent and a cemetery where writers, poets, politicians and public figures are buried. We had been to the cemetery on our previous visit, so visited all the chapels here this time. 

Founded in 1524, the Convent contains the Sobor Smolensk Bogomateri (Cathedral of the Virgin of Smolensk), with its golden onion domes and tiered bell tower dating from 1690. 

The cathedral features 16th-century frescoes, as well as magnificent 17th-century iconostasis. The red and white Church of the Assumption and the neighboring refectory, the soaring bell-tower and the north and south gate churches, are from the later period. All display Moscow Baroque style and the interiors are lovely.

The convent was a place of exile for noblewomen in mourning or disfavor--powerful Regent Sophia, Peter the Great's half-sister, who did much to rebuild the convent in the 1680's was confined here after a revolt in support of her in 1698!

The Convent's original function was as one of the ring of fortresses that guarded the outskirts of the medieval city and it was positioned strategically to protect the main southern access road to the city at the point where it crossed the Moskva. 

Novodevichy managed to weather French army siege also and has remained intact making it one of the best preserved historical complexes in Moscow. (Napoleon’s army had captured Moscow and laid seige on it... however, the French army could not withstand the harsh Russian winter and the constant guerrilla warfare by the locals... they had to retreat...The retreating army was leaving a trail of devastation behind by setting fire as they left a place. They had set bombs at this convent complex and ignited them... but the nuns managed to extinguish the fuses on casks of gunpowder by throwing water and thus saved the convent!!)

We bought the tickets and paid the small fee for the camera also.

 There was a wedding ceremony with soulful music at the main chapel and we felt privileged to stand unobtrusively and witness it for some 10 minutes. 

There was a nice exhibition as well and we were almost the only people walking through the several chapels admiring the frescoes--it was a thoroughly fitting end to our Moscow trip

There had been many misses on this trip as we could not schedule time for the lovely art museums. Our logic was to give priority to Typical Russian architecture as we have been to some great global art museums. No regrets…we had a soul enriching experience at all the places we visited and savored every moment.

On our research before the trip, we had come across some comments which had created a few misgivings. (There had even been a poll which declared Russians the most unfriendly people and quite a few stories about the militia). Our experience was totally positive and we could not have asked for a better holiday. . 

We hope to return some day to this lovely country with its rich culture, great history, AWESOME palaces, museums and best of all, warm people we met from all walks of life!

The next post is the beginning of the report on our vacation in beautiful Brazil:
http://adventuretrav.blogspot.com/2016/12/brazil-trip-report-day-1-rio-de-janeiro.html