How to Plan an International Trip: Travel Tales and Tips : CHILE TRIP REPORT Days 10, 11: Flight to Calama, Drive to San Pedro de Atacama; Drive on Ruta 27

DAY 10: DEC 20 MONDAY ATACAMA

RUDEST HOTEL MANAGER EVER

We were scheduled to stay 4 nights in the same hotel Departmentos R M in Santiago on our last stint. Dec 24-28. We had a late flight from Santiago to Houston on 28th Dec at 11.340 at night. Son sent a message to the hotel asking if they have a rest room and a place to sit in their hotel for that stay coming up after a week. Their lobby was narrow and had just 2 small ottomon, no other seating. Got a rude reply saying they don't allow late checkouts and we need to book the hotel for an extra day. We were quite surprised as we had only asked about restroom and a place to sit while waiting for our taxi. . [later they would create more trouble and cancel our reservation telling lies that our cc did not work for payment for that last stint]. [We also found a message from him sent at 11 asking us to check out pronto... then another guy from the same account replying they left at 8.... we don't have data and saw these when we reached our hotel in Atacama and checked our mail on their wifi. Stupidest and rudest idiot ]

Flight, car rental, hotel check in:

Anyway we checked out at 8.30 am, called UBER for airport. Some 3, 4 drivers canceled and then we got a ride accepted from TAXI. Later we learned that UBER is not allowed to ply to Santiago airport, only official taxis are allowed.

The fare was reasonable and we boarded our flight. No mobility pass check.

CAR RENTAL OR TOURS IN ATACAMA?

Most people prefer to use tours in Atacama as the roads are not in good condition... in fact we can't take a rental car to El Tatio or to some parts of Hidden lagoons like Lago Baltinoche.... the insurance will be void as the roads are very bad. Also for El Tatioo, we need to be there before sunrise to be able to observe the 100 plus geysers going off. So it involves driving in darkness, winding gravel roads, too early when we are not fully awake, climbing altitude from 2400 m to 4500 m in less than 90 km. So it had to be a tour for El Tatio.

We read a lot of horror stories about transfers from and to the airport, getting ditched etc. We decided to rent the car and use tour for El Tatio. We did drive to the Hidden lagoon area , did not visit the forbidden one .Lagunas Miscanti y Miñiques were closed

Landed in Calama airport. We had booked the Chilean Rent a car though there had been several negative reviews from one post wonders on Tripadvisor, also glowing praise from one time posters . We did see a couple of good reviews by long time posters and so decided to go with it.

At the airport, their kiosk had nobody. We enquired at the neigboring counter and that guy went out and called the girl. We got our car at 1 pm, we had to return the car on Dec 24th, Christmas eve which is traditionally holiday in Chile from noon. The girl said we can return the car by 3 pm. they close by 4 on 24th. Our flight back was at 7.30, no worries. We had already conrimed all these terms from their office by ringing them up before booking.

We drove to our hotel in San Pedro de Atacama.

HOSTAL NORTH ATACAMA

Nobody answered our knocks. We had to switch on our phone and call. The girl answered and opened the door. She checked us in but demanded cash for settling our bills. As is usual with all our trips, we had talked to the owner on SKYPE and confirmed he'd accept credit card. But later when we whatsapped him for car rental recommendations he never got back. We did not have enough cash in liras. The Chilean pesos was going down in value day by day. ATMs charge a fixed fee for every withdrawal. We did not want to be saddled with extra cash. At the same time , did not want to make extra withdrawal.

We drove to the town center, parked the car and walked through the village. Entered a tour office and aske about tours. The lady quoted 45000 chilean pesos for El Tatio. I had seen 60000 pesos being accepted by others after scouting around

There was no availability for the next day. She booked us for the day after. We were OK as the pickup is 1 hour before sunrise. She gave us maps and told us where we can drive. With covid closures we had no idea if things had opened. She was wrong and we wasted our time the next day. Bit anyway we were happy to have got a tour and went back to the hotel after a short walk through the village.

DAY 11: DEC 21 TUESDAY

WASTED HALF A DAY FOLLOWING WRONG ADVICE

We started off on the drive suggested by the tour operator, though my research had said all things were closed due to covid. We had thought of waiting for the Tourist info office to open at 9 but we started off at 8am.

Anyway it was a sheer waste and we turned back and went to the Info office. The guy spoke fluent English but did not give any concrete suggestion.

Weird curfew and sudden snow storm in the driest desert in the world with not a drop of rain in years

He said we have to be in the village by 7PM otherwise tourists have been harassed by border police who are parked near the petrol station. We were surprised by this curfew.

Anyway we started off at 2 pm on our drive on Ruta 27. It goes to Bolivia/Argentina border at the 140 km mark. But we wanted to drive up to 120 km, see the salar Aguas Caliente and then return.

Mid way points of interest are CACTUS VALLEY, MIRADOR VOLCANO Lincancabur

The intention was to turn back by 4 pm, so that we will not be caught by the cops. Little did we know what was in store.

Here is the mirador of the volcano, .. the peak covered by clouds. So we did not get the beauty of the snowy peaks

Cactus all around

The other side of the road opposite to the volcano

Volcano Lincancabur again

vicuña...

This was a pullout for a hike... there were 2 cars parked. No sight of occupants.

There was no trail. We decided not to hike

Rugged beauty and nobodt else on the road. We pulled up and had our lunch. There were some snow flurries but we ignored it and drove on

Aduas caliente in sight. The board said it was Salar de Tara. That is in the other side with the Flamingo reserve and is closed for visitors. Our guide the next day explained the government has probably put the board here so that tourists will not go flocking there