Day 16 Friday May 2

Phnom Bakheng, Preah Ang Khmao, Gate of the Dead, Victory Gate, Prasat Chau Say Tevoda, Thommanon Temple, Prasat Ta Keo, Prasat Kravan, Pre Rup, Preah Khan

[In Khmer, "preah" (ព្រះ) means "sacred" or "holy," and can also denote something "royal" or "divine." It's used to describe things that are considered of high status, either religiously or in a royal context. "Preah Khan" (Holy Sword).

Prasat (ប្រាសាទ) translates to "temple", "castle", or "palace". It specifically refers to towers or terraced pyramid structures found in Khmer architecture, often associated with temples or temple complexes. The term is derived from the Sanskrit word "prasada". ]

Map below shows the sites we visited in Angkor Wat, Day 1= Red circles, Day 2= Green circles, Day 3= Black circles,

Breakfast

Went to Phnom Bakheng first

Phnom Bakheng

Located around 400m south of Angkor Thom. Phnom means hill or mountain

Phnom Bakheng, built more than two centuries before Angkor Wat, was once the main temple in the Angkor region. It was the central architectural feature of a new capital called Yasodharapura, established by Yasovarman when he moved the court from the old capital, Hariharalaya, in the southeast Roluos area.

Dedicated to Shiva, it was built at the end of the 9th century, during the reign of King Yasovarman (889–910).

Located atop a hill, it is nowadays a popular tourist spot for sunset views of the much bigger temple Angkor Wat, which lies amid the jungle about 1.5 km to the southeast.

An inscription dated 1052 AD and found at the Sdok Kak Thom temple in present-day Thailand states in Sanskrit: "When Sri Yasovardhana became king under the name of Yasovarman, the able Vamasiva continued as his guru. By the king's order, he set up a linga on Sri Yasodharagiri, a mountain equal in beauty to the king of mountains." Scholars believe that this passage refers to the consecration of the Phnom Bakheng temple approximately a century and a half earlier

Later in its history, Phnom Bakheng was converted into a Buddhist temple. A monumental Sitting Buddha, now lost, was created on its upper tier

Phnom Bakheng is a symbolic representation of Mount Meru, home of the Hindu gods, a status emphasized by the temple's location atop a steep hill 65 m above the surrounding plain.

The temple is built in a pyramid form of seven levels, representing the seven heavens. At the top level, five sandstone sanctuaries, in various states of repair, stand in a quincunx pattern—one in the center and one at each corner of the level's square. Originally, 108 small towers were arrayed around the temple at ground level and on various of its tiers; most of them have collapsed.

The temple sits on a rectangular base and rises in five levels and is crowned by five main towers. One hundred four smaller towers are distributed over the lower four levels, placed so symmetrically that only 33 can be seen from the center of any side. Thirty-three is the number of gods who dwelt on Mount Meru.

Phnom Bakheng's total number of towers is also significant. The center one represents the axis of the world and the 108 smaller ones represent the four lunar phases, each with 27 days.

The seven levels of the monument represent the seven heavens and each terrace contains 12 towers which represent the 12-year cycle of Jupiter. it is "an astronomical calendar in stone.

To reach the temple at the top, there is a winding path which takes us to the foot of the temple. At the end of this path, there are some steep steps which will take us the rest of the way to the temple

Hiking path...

Angkor Wat in the distance...

Naga Buddha...

walking out through the east entrance...

The next was not in the Grand circuit we wanted to complete but I had seen a good google review. The main shrine is built on an older structure, it's a working temple with Hindu Gods also in the altar with Buddha. It is situated along the road to the South Gate of Angkor Thom, making it easily accessible

Wat Preah Ang Kong Kumpel (Preah Ang Khmao)

Preah Ang Khmao means "Black Buddha"

The temple houses a revered statue of the Buddha, known as the "Black Buddha," which is believed to possess miraculous powers.

The temple features ornate roof structures, intricate carvings, and vibrant murals depicting Buddhist stories. and features wooden carvings with floral motifs and angel figures

Hindu God Ganesh

Vishnu...

Ganesh again at the back of Vishnu

Victory Gate

The Victory Gate at the eastern wall of Angkor Thom is in line to the the Royal Palace and to the Elephant Terrace and the Royal Square in front of it. They are in 1.5 km distance from the Victory Gate. Royal Palace and Victory Gate form the "secular axis" of Angkor Thom.

All other gateways to Angkor Thom are located at the cardinal points and in line to the state temple in the very centre of the city, Bayon. They form the symmetrical axes of the sacred layout of Angkor Thom.

Apart from those cardinal points there is only one more entrance to the city, and this is the Victory Gate, leading to a palace and another sacred centre within it, the Phimeanakas, which seems to have been the focal point of the "first Angkor" already three centuries earlier than Angkor Thom.

The gate is called "Victory Gate" according to the assumption that it was this gate through which King Jayavarman VII sent his army into battle against Champa, the Khmer empire's mighty enemy to the east.

Parades on the "Victory Avenue" could have been launched at the Royal Square, or ended there. The very same gate may have been the place where the king welcomed his returning victorious warriors, when they entered the capital.

climb to the top of Angkor Thom's city walls for a closer view of the Victory Gate, though it is really worth it. Apart from Angkor Thom's West Gate, the Victory Gate offers the best opportunity to take a picture of one of those world-famous monumental Buddhist faces framed by trees. You cannot take this kind of "giant face in the jungle" photo at the much more famous and frequented South Gate of Angkor Thom. Another insider tipp is: Walk along the rampart, only 500 m further south, at the East Gate, you will enjoy such an enigmatic face tower in a perfectly tranquil surrounding, completely undisturbed by busloads of noisy visitors.

The wall is an attraction on its own. In 1177 the invading Chams from the Kingdom of Champa were only challenged by a wooden wall. So Jayavarman VII constructed the stone wall which now remains. It consists of 1 metre square blocks of laterite, stacked 8 metres high on the external and inner walls, and reinforced with earth inside.

Gate of the Dead [Kmoch Gate] / East Gate [Thvear Khnoch]

The Gate of the Dead, also known as the East Gate of Angkor Thom, is one of the five city gates of the ancient city of Angkor Thom in Cambodia.

the gate through which the bodies of deceased kings and high dignitaries were carried for cremation outside the city.

It is located on the eastern side of the city, distinct from the Victory Gate. While the architecture is similar to other gates, it's distinguished by its simpler, narrower design and its association with funeral processions. It's typically reached via a dirt road from the Victory Gate or from the Bayon temple area.

Naga balustrade from above...

Victory gate view through trees... money shot

Prasat Chau Say Tevoda

Chau Say Tevoda translates into English as the “prolific grandchildren of a deity”. It’s located just outside Angkor Thom near the Victory Gate.

The temple was built as a Hindu temple and dedicated to Shiva and Vishnu.

was partly built in the mid-12th century under the reign of King Suryavarman II. Further supplementation of structures was done under the reign of Jayavarman VII.

Though the temple was built under Hindu kings during the 11th and 12th centuries with predominantly Hindu deities such as Shiva and Vishnu, Buddha images was built during the reign of Dharanindravarman, father of Jayavarman VII

Apsaras...

Mortarless stone blocks...

Cistern in front...

Thommanon Temple

Thommanon is one of a pair of Hindu temples built during the reign of Suryavarman II (1113–1150) at Angkor, Cambodia.

This small and elegant temple is east of the Gate of Victory of Angkor Thom and north of Chau Say Tevoda.

The temple is dedicated to Shiva and Vishnu.

Note the tall trees ...

Ta Keo / Prasat Ta Kêv

Ta Keo was the state temple of Jayavarman V, son of Rajendravarman, who had built Pre Rup.

Like Pre Rup, it has five sanctuary towers arranged in a quincunx, built on the uppermost level of five-tier pyramid consisting of overlapping terraces (a step pyramid), surrounded by moats, as a symbolic depiction of Mount Meru.

Its particularly massive appearance is due to the absence of external decorations, as carving had just begun when the work stopped

The four stairways that lead on the summit are continuous and very steep.

The absence of any decoration makes the final pyramid really massive.

At the foot of the eastern stairs there is a statue of a kneeling Nandi, which confirms that Ta Keo was a Shivaite temple.

Nandi is the divine Bull who guards Shiva...

Had our lunch here where the staff were having their food, sharing with feral dogs.

Prasat Kravan

Prasat Kravan is a small 10th-century temple consisting of five reddish brick towers on a common terrace, at Angkor, Cambodia, south of the artificial lake (baray) called Srah Srang.

The temple was dedicated to Vishnu in 921 according to an inscription on doorjambs

The temple is oriented to the east and surrounded by a small moat.

Its exterior is striking for its classical lines and symmetry. The central and the south tower have superstructures which take advantage of false perspective by simple means of diminishing tiers.

The sanctuary's interiors are remarkable for the large bas-relief depictions of Vishnu and Lakshmi that have been carved into the walls of reddish brick, connected by a vegetable compound. This type of sculptured artwork is rather common in Cham temples, but rare in known Khmer monuments

There was a rope closing the entrance. We peeped in and could hardly see the inside. We thought it was some mural paintings.

A local lady came with incense and opened the rope and went in for prayers. We joined her inside. WOW! What lovely carvings

Hanuman...

Vishnu on Garuda...

Multi armed Vishnu...

Pre Rup

Pre Rup is a Hindu temple at Angkor, Cambodia, built as the state temple of Khmer king Rajendravarman and dedicated in 961 or early 962.

It is a temple mountain of combined brick, laterite and sandstone construction.

The temple's name is a comparatively modern one meaning "turn the body". This reflects the common belief among Cambodians that funerals were conducted at the temple, with the ashes of the body being ritually rotated in different directions as the service progressed.

Son is the white speck, he climbed to the top... I sat this one out.

Son is the white speck

Preah Khan

Preah Khan was built on the site of Jayavarman VII's victory over the invading Chams in 1191. the modern name, meaning "holy sword", is derived from the meaning of the original—Nagara Jayasri (holy city of victory).

The temple is flat in design, with a basic plan of successive rectangular galleries around a Buddhist sanctuary complicated by Hindu satellite temples and numerous later additions. Like the nearby Ta Prohm, Preah Khan has been left largely unrestored, with numerous trees and other vegetation growing among the ruins.

The site may previously have been occupied by the royal palaces of Yasovarman II and Tribhuvanadityavarman.

The temple's foundation stela has provided considerable information about the history and administration of the site: the main image, of the bodhisattva Avalokiteśvara in the form of the king's father, was dedicated in 1191 (the king's mother had earlier been commemorated in the same way at Ta Prohm).

430 other deities also had shrines on the site, each of which received an allotment of food, clothing, perfume and even mosquito nets; the wealth and treasure of this ruin includes gold, silver, gems, 112,300 pearls and a cow with gilded horns. The institution combined the roles of city, temple and Buddhist university: there were 97,840 attendants and servants, including 1000 dancers and 1000 teachers

Surrounded by a moat, it measures 800 by 700 m and encloses an area of 56 hectares (140 acres)

Naga balustrade...

The outer wall of Preah Khan is of laterite, and bears 72 garudas holding nagas, at 50 m intervals.

The fourth enclosure wall bears 5 m garudas holding nagas. Buddha images in the niches above were systematically destroyed during the reign of Jayavarman VIII.

gigantic dvarapalak

Carved pediment...

Dvarapalak...

Tree encroahing...

Dvarapalak...

We had been following this map put at the temple entrance but they had changed the route, east was closed.

This security guard in the pic below offered to act as our guide for 10usd and we agreed.

At the centre of the temple, in place of the original statue of Lokesvara, is a stupa built several centuries after the temple's initial construction.

Buddha images on the columns were changed into hermits under Jayavarman VIII.

Shiva Lingam

Special apsara...holding a hand mirror

West of the third eastern gopura, on the main axis is a Hall of Dancers. The walls are decorated with apsaras; Buddha images in niches above them were systematically destroyed during the reign Jayavarman VIII

Tree encroaching...

Indradevi, one of Jayavarman VII's two sister-wives...[both wives have shrines]

Jayadevi, one of Jayavarman VII's two sister-wives

Dvarapalak...

Dancing Apsaras

Library...

Buddhas were turned to ascetics

Nandi

Pediment with Reclining Vishnu with Lakshmi at his feet

Reclining Vishnu with Lakshmi at his feet...

Shiva with Indra hovering

the Echo Chamber, a structure within the temple, is believed to have been used for cleansing rituals, and some visitors report hearing echoes of chanting or other sounds within this space. The temple's layout, with its long, narrow corridors and interconnected spaces, can create a sense of spaciousness and amplify sounds.