Vietnam and Cambodia Trip Report, 2025 Day 12 Ninh Binh Đền Mẫu, Phố đi bộ , Kỳ Lân Mountain Silver Pagodas,Thai Vi Temple, Bich Dong Pagoda
Day 12 Monday Apr 28
Scenic walk in Trang An, Ninh Binh Đền Mẫu, Phố đi bộ, Kỳ Lân Mountain Silver Pagodas, Thai Vi Temple, Bich Dong
Late start to the day
We had been having very early morning starts throughout the vacation. It had served us quite well to cram in as many nice sites as possible.
In Ninh Binh, We had seen some very beautiful sights and had a lovely boat ride the previous day.
We decided to sleep in. We got up at 7:30 AM We walked over to the dining area across a pond. We had our breakfast .
This sauce was flavorful... we got our lunch veggie rice packed and ready with a generous dose of this sauce
Scenic walk around our hotel
Our train was only at 4:10 PM. Our check out time from the hotel was at 11:00 a.m. The hotel surrounds are very scenic... lovely karst hills, Green Fields and a lot of water. The Hills were reflecting in the water and it was a very pretty sight. We could see beautiful views right from our bed.
after breakfast we came back to the room and lounged around enjoying the view from inside and resting. Around 10am, we went for a stroll. The road there is gravel and we had seen a couple of cyclists looking miserable rattling along. But the walk was serene and lovely
Our room is reflected in the water...
Our room is reflected in the water...
Our own resident family of ducks... we could see them from our room!
Came back, checked out, left our bags at the dining hall
Hoa Lu Ancient Town
Ky Lan is a sacred mountain in the center of Ninh Binh city, 50m above sea level. The rocks on the top of the mountain are stacked to form the shape of a unicorn's head looking north, so it is called Ky Lan mountain. Kỳ Lân Mountain (Núi Kỳ Lân) is a well-known landmark in Ninh Binh. While “mountain” might be euphemistic for a 50 meter high natural stone protuberance, it gets its name from the likeness of a Unicorn’s head facing north and a slope with a dip representing its jaws.
Located at the foot of Ky Lan Mountain, the Silver Pagoda complex was built a long time ago. Through the ups and downs of history, the pagoda has been severely degraded and damaged.
In 2022, the pagoda complex was renovated and restored with a number of items such as: Mau Temple, Ky Lan Communal House, Tay Phuong Stupa, Tu An Tower. This space has become one of the famous spiritual tourist destinations in Ninh Binh, attracting a large number of Buddhists, locals and tourists to visit and worship
Bridge to Princess temple in Kylan mountain
To enter Kỳ Lân Mountain, there is picturesque small stone bridge barely wide enough for one person that spans the Trang An River at the northern foot of the mountain. Or visitors can choose this 4m wide stone bridge on the south side, near the Hoa Lu hotel.
Đền Mẫu
The temple, whose name translates as "Mother Temple," is dedicated to the worship of the Mother Goddesses, a tradition deeply rooted in Vietnamese culture and spiritual life. This practice, known as Đạo Mẫu, honors female deities who are believed to protect the nation, family, and individuals, especially in times of hardship.
Kỳ Lân/ the Unicorn
the Unicorn (Kỳ Lân) is one of the four mythical animals in the spiritual culture of the Vietnamese. Symbolizing peace, wealth and luck, it also represents intelligence and goodness. Additionally, this composite creature of horse, buffalo, and dragon is seen as a motif of strength and faithfulness, often depicted in stone to guard holy sites and temples.
In ancient times, a creature called the “black unicorn” troubled residents in the area. This malevolent beast frequently killed and ate local people, causing havoc and terror. Eventually driven to despair, the people decided that one of the king’s daughters would offer herself to the demon while secretly taking a slow-acting poison before the fateful meeting.
As expected, the black unicorn killed and ate the unfortunate princess, but by doing so, it poisoned itself and perished. As it laying dying in the moonlight, its corpse gradually blended with the rocky landscape, forming the mountain. Eventually trees, flowers, and grass grew luxuriantly around the hanging cliffs, seen as the beard of the vanquished unicorn.
In honor of the princess’s self-sacrifice, the people constructed a temple at the northwest foot of the mountain. An incense burner stands in front of the temple’s entrance door and on either side are two sculptures of “cranes standing on the back of a turtle”, signifying the noble harmony between heaven and earth.
Inside the temple, there is altar for worship of the ancient princess, with a statue of the noble girl and her servants in the middle, surrounded by statues of the 5 Venerable Mandarins below.
The Trang An River, which connects to the “historic” Sao Khe River of Hoa Lu’s ancient capital, encircles the complex, with the Hoa Lu hotel adjacent and the twin towers of the Silver Pagodas standing behind.
While Kỳ Lân Mountain is modest in size, it is has 5 limestone caverns, each hidden in the lush green trees and foliage.
A number of paths track over and through the mountain, allowing visitors scenic views across the wide river.
The twin “silver pagodas” have raised walkways across the water and are replete with stucco motifs of much of the area’s spiritual history.
Ky Lan Pagoda
Ky Lan Pagoda is a part of the Ky Lan Temple Complex, located on Ky Lan Mountain. It's a smaller pagoda built in a "one-pillar" style with a curving roof and is known for its statues of imperial guardian lions and a large bronze bell.
Traditional boats...
Silver pagoda tower/ Chùa Bạc reflected in Trang An river...
Hoa Lu Hotel Grounds
There is a nice hotel nearby and its parking lot has a lotus pond and lovely statues. We walked around and enjoyed them
Then we walked back to the bridge... traditional boats here
Chùa Bạc /Bac (Silver) Pagoda Complex
Silver Pagoda / Ky Lan Son Tu is a unique spiritual tourist destination
The Bac (Silver) Pagoda towers are located on the lake in front of the Kỳ Lân Pagoda.
Inside each Silver Pagoda is a Buddhist hall, with all of the murals carved entirely in volcanic stone by a team of artisans from Ninh Binh’s mountainous region.
Tay Phuong Tower and Tu An Tower in the Silver Pagoda complex are connected by a 60m long, 3m wide green stone bridge.
The elaborate tiled roofs, adorned with dragon motifs and upturned corners, symbolize protection and prosperity in Vietnamese culture. Intricately carved wooden doors and beams feature mythological creatures, floral patterns, and auspicious symbols.
Beautifully painted murals and lacquered altars inside the sanctuary are dedicated to Mother Goddesses and local spiritual figures.
The harmonious integration of the temple with its natural surroundings, including serene courtyards and ancient trees, enhances the spiritual ambiance.
The Silver Pagoda is 27m high with 3 majestic curved roofs, crafted and built entirely of red granite with an architectural style imbued with the culture of ancient Vietnamese temples.
Amazing carving, floor to ceiling on volcanic stone
Glimpse of the other silver pagoda
Buddha's life...
Quan Am, Goddess of Mercy...
Temple honoring Buddhist lady Dieu Lien
Her contributions are listed here
The Lady's statue at the altar...Dieu Lien
Her life carved as murals
Climbing the Ky Lan mountain
View
Bell, the log for ringing it, steps ascending further...
Heavens opened up and it started pouring
It started raining heavily and we sat in the complex for more than 1/2 hour. When the rain slowed down a bit. we called a Grab and went to Thai Vi temple hoping it may not rain heavily there
Thai Vi Temple
Thai Vi Temple is a historically significant site dedicated to the Tran Dynasty kings. Built in the 13th century, this temple commemorates the Tran kings who ruled Vietnam during a time of great military success and cultural development. It is distinguished as the place where King Tran Thai Tong retired and commenced his spiritual journey after years of leading the nation.
The temple’s architecture features majestic stone carvings, dragon pillars, and a dramatic mountain backdrop. The use of green stone and ironwood in the altars and walkways reflects traditional craftsmanship. Visitors can admire ceremonial drums, bronze statues, and incense-burning rituals.
Thankfully there was just an occasional drizzle here...
The temple is beautifully situated, with the Ngo Giang River on the right and Coi Linh Mountain on the left, with a well made of green stone in front and Cam Son Mountain behind.
The entrance is marked by a ceremonial gate, flanked by two solid green stone horse statues. In the middle of the 3rd lunar month each year, the locals hold a festival at the temple to honor the Tran emperors and national heroes.
We were a bit wary of the feral dogs which were territorial...
The main temple has a lacquered board hanging high with golden Chinese characters. Following that are three central chambers with two rows of round stone columns intricately carved with dragon motifs. To the rear, there are five chambers with eight round stone columns that were intricately carved.
We exited the temple and enjoyed the scenery around.
The setting, nestled between rice paddies and karst hills, adds to the spiritual serenity.
The Grab taxi we had come there in was waiting and the same guy took us to Bich Dong pagoda. Again beautiful setting all round.
Bich Dong Pagoda
Nestled within a limestone cliff, Bich Dong Pagoda is a charming three-tiered pagoda built directly into the mountainside. Constructed during the Le Dynasty, the site is known as “the second most beautiful grotto under the sky", second only to Huong Tich Cave.
The pagoda is divided into three parts: Lower, Middle, and Upper Pagoda, each perched on different elevations of the mountain. Visitors climb stone steps through lush greenery and caves to reach each level. The structure showcases traditional Vietnamese aesthetics - woobai dinh pagoda den beams, clay roof tiles, and tranquil altars tucked into natural cave formations.
With the rain it was a dangerous slippery climb
Did not go fully up, decided we had had enough flavor of it, came down, called a Grab
Boring Train journey back to Hanoi with a huge delay
We went back to our hotel , collected
our bags and went to the train station .
When we had come into Ninh Binh by
train, the train was Hanoi-Ho Chi Min City... a long journey of 35 plus hours and was obviously going onward. Ninh Binh was a very
short stop. Son was able to get down with his bag, I could not get
down with my bag. People were already climbing in and pushing me and
it had been a nightmare to get out with my bag. We should have been
at the entrance of the door when the station was announced. We did
see a couple of girls doing that but we did not realize that it may
be difficult to get out when umpteen others are trying to get in.
So This time we have to get into the
train ... Must be coming in from Saigon. We thought it will be a
short stop and we will have to get in when other people are getting
out and it may be another difficult experience.
We reached the
station some 10 minutes earlier, the train was already standing at
the platform. We were surprised, got into the train, looked for our
seats and sat.
The train was full. Most of them looked tired, they
had been on a long journey . It took a while for the train to start.
It was almost a 20 minute halt and then at each station halt it was
stopping for some 15 minutes or so .
On the way in, it had not been
like that, it was just 2 hours 10 minutes. Now we were already 3
hours into the trip. This was such a waste of our time.
And then
right before entering Hanoi also it stopped at at the middle of the
Road and stayed there for some 20 minutes A couple of boys just got
down there. We were almost tempted to do that because we could see
from our map we can go to our hotel by Grab from there but we thought
it will go to the station soon, it was just 6km. But the train was
just not moving... was such a waste of time . Probably the train was
waiting for some clearance .
Then finally it rolled on and suddenly
the famous Hanoi Train Street was there. We had seen pictures of
people waiting in that narrow street with the train thundering
between shops on both sided right next to them . But now we were in
that train for that experience watching our train whizzing through
the narrow street flanked by shops, the shops just rushing by very
close to our train windows . Just caught a little bit of that in a
video!
Anyway the train reached the train
station a good 3 and a half hours after it had set off . If I had
known there was this possibility, we could have just taken a bus .
Anyway we just got a grab taxi and went to our apartment .
We knew
the check in procedure and got in and our two bags we had left behind
was waiting . made some rice and veggies and had some hot tasty food.
End of a long day and we slept off . The next day we
had a 4:00 PM flight to Cambodia ..Our last day in Vietnam...
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