Day 10 Saturday Apr 26

7.30AM Sa Pa Express to Hanoi, Grocery run

CHECKED OUT AT 6.15AM

Took pics as usual of the room

On the previous day we had told the owner lady that we are taking the early morning bus and we need our breakfast the previous day. She said they'll make it fresh for us in the morning at 6:30 AM .

We locked our room, took the 5/6 steps to the street and tried to enter the reception. It was locked. We knocked, there was no answer . We rang up the owner Lady she probably buzzed somebody inside and the girl came and opened the door.

We Left the key on the table.

she started making the breakfast for us basically fried rice and an omelette. Their regular menu has fried rice with sausages. As we are vegetarians they cut it out for us.

Previous day we had the fried rice. Since rice will take more time they did it with noodles quite tasty and filling meal.

We got bottled water as well. In fact they have filtered water available at the restaurant area for guests to fill up, very thoughtful and nice of them. We always filled up our bottle there, didn't have to buy new bottled water. Their own guy dropped us at the Sapa Express or may be we called Xiaomi's taxi. The girl inside came out and waved and it was the nicest experience. I would heartily recommend this stay to anybody who visits Sapa,

Sapa Express to Hanoi

at the Sapa Express office our bus was already standing and two other couples had already boarded. It was a smaller limo because they did not have many people ... only 10 of us. The Australian Lady in front of us was coughing the whole trip. We were a bit scared but thankfully we didnt catch the infection I wish people would have the courtesy to cough into a tissue or on their shirt sleeve instead of coughing right into the air. oh well what can you do.

It was a scenic journey with nice views of rice terraces. Video below shows it better than pics

again there was a halt midway but we did not get out because our breakfast has been pretty filling. I had packed some sandwiches but did not use it.

CHECK IN & GROCERY RUN

We were back in Hanoi in 6 hours. It was all familiar as we had boarded the bus from that office just 2km from our apt. We called a grab taxi and came back to the apartment we had stayed at previously. Our owner had been in touch with us on whatsapp. He had already kept the apartment ready for us and left the key in the box. We did not need any further instructions because he had explained everything well previously . We collected our key and authorised the lift with the key and boarded it and alighted right into our apartment. This video shows the whole procedure.

The room was waiting for us clean and spacious along with the bag we had left behind. We needed some groceries. So we went to our BG market in a grab and collected stuff for the next 2 days in Ninh Binh as well. the grocery stores we bought rice, a small milk and yoghurt and jackfruit chips and mango slices bread, corn,etc as you can see in the picture.

nice fish tank at the store

We came back, fixed our food, repacked the bag because we were staying just for one night in Ninh Binh. We were taking the 6:10 AM train the next morning and it will take two hour 10 minutes to reach Ninh Binh Station. We planned to see all the highlights that whole day and the next day. We had booked a train back at 4:10 PM. We did not need a jacket for that trip, so along with the previous bag, we left one more small bag with our jackets inside and told our host over Whatsapp that we are checking out at 5:50AM or so.

We slept off early

Day 11 Sunday Apr 27

6.10AM train to Ninh Binh, Trang an boat ride, Chua Vang, Bai Dinh

Map shows why we have to come back to Hanoi and then go to Ninh Binh our next base

CHECKED OUT AT 5:40 AM

Left 2 bags behind

this is the salon on the ground floor

The Hanoi train station is just 4 kilometres from our apartment. We called grab taxi around 5:50AM and reached there to board our 6:10 AM train . We carried our breakfast vegetable rice and lunch sandwiches fruits nuts etc with us . There are buses also going to Ninh Binh but we had read that the train journey is more scenic, so we opted for that . But in reality there was hardly anything scenic.

Anyway we had our breakfast at 8:00 AM and reached Ninh Binh station by 8:45 AM . There was a slight drizzle. We had to go outside to the road to board our grab taxi and we reached our hotel in a very scenic part in Trang An.

People opt to stay in Tam coc because it is busy with lots of restaurant options. Trang an is remote but we chose to stay there and were very happy with our decision. These pics show how pretty our hotel surrounds are

Obviously our room was not ready. We left our bags at the reception and took the same grab taxi back to Trang An boat wharf

SCENIC NINH BINH

Known locally as ‘Ha Long Bay on Land’ thanks to its magical riverine landscape, with sheer limestone mountains rising up from the paddies, Ninh Binh also has rich history, and cultural heritage,

Located just 90km from Hanoi, Ninh Binh is easily accessible.

To witness rice fields at their most vibrant, visit during the September-October harvest season the fields turn golden, or in April-May during the "watering season" the fields are lush green and reflect the sky.

Ninh Binh Province has three places in particular which attract the greatest number of tourists:

Tam Coc: Is a region with steep sided karst hills and a river running through upon which you take a boat ride past the hills and through some caves. Tam Coc also has a 15th Century cliff top temple with outstanding views across the area.

Trang An: Is an area similar to Tam Coc, but with fewer visitors and more caves to pass through on a boat. [You will get a private boat at Tam Coc while they put always minimum 3 people maximum 4 people on a boat at Trang An. Trang An ride has 6 and longer caves and much of what you see, can only be seen by boat. ]

Hang Mua Peak: Is one of the large hills in the area around Tam Coc. It’s 450 steps up to the top of the hill from where you get 360 degree views of the surrounding countryside.

Ninh Binh Trang an boat ride

The best way to enjoy this UNESCO-protected site is by taking a paddleboat tour along its shimmering rivers

each sampan is guided by a boat person who rows and expertly guides along gentle waterways, past towering karsts, and into dripping grottoes. Trang An boat tour has three routes for our choice. Depending on our preference, we will be assigned to a boat (max four visitors and a boatman)

We chose Route 3 [3 caves, 3 temples, 2.5 hours] Boat Wharf – Trinh Temple – Dot Cave [longest cave] – May Cave – Suoi Tien Temple – Dia Linh Mountain – Dai Cave – Hanh Cung Vu Lam Temple – Boat Wharf

Route 1 [9 caves, 3 temples, 3.5 hours], Boat Wharf – Trinh Temple – Toi Cave– Sang Cave – Nau Ruou Cave – Tran Temple – Ba Giot Cave – Seo Cave– Son Duong Cave – Khong Palace – Bao Hieu Temple – Khong Cave – Tran Cave – Quy Hau Cave – Boat Wharf

Route 2 [4 caves, 3 temples, 2.5 hours]Boat Wharf – Lam Cave – Thanh Cao Son Temple – Vang Cave – Thanh Truot Cave – Suoi Tien Temple – Dai Cave – Hanh Cung Vu Lam Temple – Boat Wharf

A young German couple shared our boat

1st Halt Trinh Temple

we noted our boat number and got out.

located at the foot of the mountain. This temple is more than a thousand years old.

The temple honors two generals of the Court, Nhi Thanh Thanh, Ta Thanh Tru and Huu Thanh Tru

Dinh Bo Linh (born, Hoa Lu, northern Vietnam—died 979, northern Vietnam) was the emperor and founder of the second Vietnamese dynasty, who, after a decade of anarchy, reunified his country, winning official recognition of Vietnam as a state independent from China.

Dinh Bo Linh, of peasant ancestry, was the adopted son of a feudal lord, the prefect of Hoa Lu. He was one of 12 chieftains among whom was divided Nam Viet, which consisted of northern Vietnam and three central Vietnamese provinces. Dinh Bo Linh defeated each of the other 11 lords and by 968 had gained control of all Nam Viet. Proclaiming himself emperor, he called the reunited country Dai Co Viet.

Dinh Tien Hoang eliminated the social and political anarchy. He filled administrative positions with Buddhist and Taoist monks, who were subordinate to government and imperial control,

Dinh Tien Hoang sought peaceful relations with China and agreed to pay tribute to the Chinese emperor in return for recognition of the sovereignty of Dai Co Viet and its ruler. He thus achieved permanent independence from China for the Vietnamese kingdom, although China sought unsuccessfully to reclaim the territory in centuries to come.

Dinh Tien Hoang was a courageous warrior and an able administrator and diplomat, but his authoritarian regime and his fondness for courtly pleasures made him many enemies, even within his family and his court.

Đinh Bộ Lĩnh also instituted a rigorous justice system in which treason was punishable by being cooked in a vat of boiling oil or by being fed to a caged tiger, so as to provide a deterrent to all who threatened the new order in the kingdom. He and the crown prince were assassinated in 979 by a mystic seer

King Dinh Tien Hoang and his eldest son Dinh Lien were killed by Do Thich, the two generals of the Court, Nhi Thanh Thanh, Ta Thanh Tru and Huu Thanh Tru took the young princess Dinh Toan (age 6) to flee . people built the temple on the side of the mountain to worship them.

Ancient Bell

The temple also holds the ancient bell with the words “Phu Nghi Tu Chung”. This was cast in the second Thiệu Trị era (1842)

CAVES

We boarded our boat [note the fish sculpture on the pier]and then rode through 2 caves, ducking as we entered each

Suoi Tien Temple

The Suoi Tien Temple, nestled amidst stunning natural landscapes is accessible only by boat.

Suoi Tien (Heaven stream) worships Quy Minh Dai Vuong saint and his wife

There are many stories...

Hien Cong (Quy Minh) marched his army through Phan Loi land (Ich Vinh today) to recruit more soldiers and defeated the Thuc army. Hien Cong was given the title of Quy Minh Dai Vuong, . Then one day, Quy Minh was traveling on Tan Vien mountain, suddenly wind and rain, thunder and lightning arose, the sky and earth were dark. A loud voice echoed from the cliff: "Now summon Quy Minh to the mortal world/Together go to the Heavenly realm to meet the army and ministers". Quy Minh immediately turned into clouds and wind. The people of Phan Loi built a temple, wrote Due name to worship him. Many generations of emperors have honored him as the Supreme God of Fortune.

another story...Quy Minh Dai Vuong is a water god, who has the merit of guarding the Son Nam pass basin (the four southern Hoa Lu guards ), protecting the country during the reign of King Hung Due Vuong (the 18th Hung King). He is a "superior god", conferred by many kings of many dynasties, and is worshiped by people throughout this land. The main temple was built by King Dinh Tien Hoang at Trang An citadel in the ancient capital of Hoa Lu , and later King Tran Thai Tong rebuilt it to the scale it is today ]

Each spring, it becomes a sacred space where prayers for health and prosperity echo, symbolizing the enduring faith of the Vietnamese people.

Red horse is of the Underworld

Lotus pond

Vu Lam Citadel

Vu Lam Citadel, known as Hanh Cung Vu Lam, holds significant religious and historical importance in Vietnam. This place was once a military base in the Tran Dynasty and also a venue for kings to engage in Buddhist practices.

Hành Cung Vũ Lâm played a pivotal role during one of the most critical periods in Vietnamese history: the Tran Dynasty (13th–14th centuries). The site served as a royal military headquarters for King Trần Thái Tông and his successors during the Mongol invasions of Vietnam in the late 13th century. It was from this mountainous retreat that the Trần kings and generals devised and launched their successful resistance strategies, eventually repelling three Mongol invasions—an incredible feat that solidified Vietnam’s sovereignty and national identity.

The Vũ Lâm base was chosen for its strategic location amidst the rugged terrain of limestone mountains, making it a natural fortress. Surrounded by rivers and forests, the area provided both defense and seclusion, which allowed the Tran rulers to organize their military forces and train soldiers in relative secrecy.

It was also a retreat for the royal family and court members, who would flee to the safety of this mountainous stronghold in times of war.

A Spiritual Legacy

Apart from its military function, Hành Cung Vũ Lâm also became an important spiritual and religious site. Following the victory over the Mongols, King Trần Thái Tông and many of his descendants adopted Buddhism and sought solace in the secluded and peaceful surroundings of Vũ Lâm. The king himself became a monk and lived out his final years at the nearby Trúc Lâm Monastery, which he founded.

Vũ Lâm later became part of the Trúc Lâm Zen sect, a Vietnamese school of Buddhism founded by King Trần Nhân Tông, the grandson of Trần Thái Tông. The sect, which emphasized simplicity, harmony with nature, and meditation, flourished in this serene environment. Today, remnants of Buddhist pagodas and shrines can still be found in and around Hành Cung Vũ Lâm, making it not only a place of historical interest but also of spiritual reflection.

Located within the Trang An Landscape Complex, Hành Cung Vũ Lâm is surrounded by some of the most stunning scenery in Vietnam. The area is characterized by towering limestone mountains, tranquil rivers, and lush greenery, creating a breathtaking backdrop for exploration.

The combination of natural beauty, historical significance, and spiritual legacy makes Vũ Lâm a unique destination that offers something for everyone—whether you are a history enthusiast, a nature lover, or simply someone seeking a peaceful escape.