Day 17 Saturday May 3

Kulen Mountain, Banteay Srei temple, River of Thousand Lingas, Kulen waterfall and the Preah Ang Thom Pagoda with reclined Buddha.

LOGISTICS

The admittance price for foreigners is 20 USD. The ticket must be purchased at the Kulen National Park Office prior to going up there. In years past, a ticket could be purchased at the park entry point (checkpoint) but this is no longer the case. If you don’t have a ticket, you won’t get in.

We bought the tickets from the office near City Hotel on Road 6 Siem Reap on our way

We hired a taxi for the day 60usd, the same guy who had engine issues from airport. He made a request to give him a second chance and we accepted. Blue circles show our path in map below

Banteay Srei temple

Located in the area of Angkor, Banteay Srei temple lies near the hill of Phnom Dei, 25 km (16 mi) north-east of the main group of temples that once belonged to the medieval capitals of Yaśodharapura and Angkor Thom. 36 KM from our apt.

It was Consecrated on 22 April 967 dedicated to the Hindu gods Shiva and Parvati.

After later expansions, south of the axis is devoted to Shiva, and north of the axis devoted to Vishnu.

Originally, it carried the name Tribhuvanamaheshvara—great lord of the threefold world—in reference to the Shiva statue that served as its central religious image

The temple's modern name, Banteay Srei—citadel of the women, or citadel of beauty—is probably related to the intricacy of the bas relief carvings found on the walls

Banteay Srei is built largely of red sandstone, a medium that lends itself to the elaborate decorative wall carvings which are still observable today. The buildings themselves are miniature in scale, unusually so when measured by the standards of Angkorian construction. These factors have made the temple extremely popular with tourists, and have led to its being widely praised as the jewel of Khmer art

Banteay Srei was the only major temple at Angkor not built by rulers; its construction is credited to the courtiers named Vishnukumara and Yajnavaraha, who served as counsellors to King Rajendravarman II

The foundational stela says that Yajnavaraha, grandson of King Harshavarman I was a scholar and philanthropist who helped those who suffered from illness, injustice, or poverty. His pupil was the future King Jayavarman V (r. 968 – ca. 1001). Originally, the temple was surrounded by a town called Ishvarapura.

Beauty of its sandstone lintels and pediments

The temple is known for the beauty of its sandstone lintels and pediments.

A pediment is the triangular space above a rectangular doorway or openings. At Banteay Srei, pediments are relatively large in comparison to the openings below, and take a gabled shape. For the first time in the history of Khmer architecture, whole scenes of mythological subject-matter are depicted on the pediments.

A lintel is a horizontal beam spanning the gap between two posts. Some lintels serve a structural purpose, supporting the weight of the superstructure, while others are purely decorative. The lintels at Banteay Srei are beautifully carved, rivalling those of the 9th century Preah Ko style in quality.

The gopura is all that remains of the outer wall surrounding the town of Ishvarapura. The wall is believed to have measured approximately 500 m square, and may have been constructed of wood. The gopura's eastern pediment shows Indra, who was associated with that direction, mounted on his three-headed elephant Airavata

Indra on his 3 headed elephant Airavat:

Shiva-Parvati on bull Nandi:

Kaala, demigod of time:

Kaala represents both the relentless march of time and the cyclical nature of existence, encompassing creation, preservation, and destruction. He is a representation of Shiva also. Here he's portrayed as a mythical animal faced God

A 67 m causeway with the remains of corridors on either side connects the gopura with the third enclosure. North and south of this causeway are galleries

KAALA, the Universal Timekeeper on this pediment as well

here the Kaala God's pedestal has the mythical animal shown in the pic above earlier

Gaja Lakshmi:

The west-facing pediment depicts Gaja Lakshmi – one of the eight avatars of Lakshmi- seated on a lotus flower and riding Uluka the Owl. Uluka is often associated with Lakshmi, but not always as her vahana (vehicle). She is flanked by two gajas (elephants ) performing abhisheka (showering with water/milk )

Lakshmi is Vishnu’s consort and goddess of wealth in Hindu mythology. She is known as Ashtalakshmi her eight avatars (manifestations) symbolizing an aspect of wealth. The Gaja Lakshmi avatar symbolizes wealth through strength. GajaLakshmi is a by-product of Samudra Manthana (Churning of the Ocean of Milk).

NATARAJA/ Tandava, cosmic dance by Shiva

Shiva, performing his cosmic dance representing creation and destruction... on the eastern gopura of the inner enclosure wall.

Each arm holds symbolic objects: a drum (damaru) for creation, a flame for destruction, and gestures (abhaya mudra for protection etc), around him are 4 Kaala figures

Makara design in the panel below:

Makara is a mythical sea creature prominent in Hindu and Buddhist mythology and art, incorporated in temple architecture.

It's depicted as a decorative motif on lintels, tympanums, and walls, often featuring a crocodile-like head, elephant trunk, and fish-like body, sometimes with other animals emerging from its mouth.

Nandi...

KAALA Again:

Demon King Ravana shaking Mt Kailasa, Abode of Shiva:

Ravana was on a ride in his plane (Pushpak Vimana). Shivas’ steed the divine Bull Nandi did not let Ravana’s plane to pass over Shiva’s abode. Ravana tried to lift Mount Kailash and get it out of the way, Shiva holds it down, which enrages Ravana further and he starts shaking the mountain

The east-facing pediment on the southern library shows Shiva and Parvati seated on the summit of Mount Kailasha, their mythological abode.

Others present on the mountain are seated in a hierarchy of three tiers:

In the top tier sit bearded wise saints and ascetics,

in the middle tier Garuda, Ganesh and mythological figures with the heads of animals and the bodies of humans,

in the bottom tier large animals, including lions.

In the middle of the scene stands the ten-headed demon king Ravana.

Ravana is shaking the mountain as the animals flee from his presence and the wise saints and mythological beings discuss the situation and pray to Parvati and Shiva.

Shiva stopped Ravana from shaking the mountain by using his toes to press down on the mountain and trapped Ravana underneath before releasing him after sometime.

Parvati on Shiva's lap...

Ravana in the center, Garuda, Ganesh watching

Animals flee...

Elders counsel, animals flee

Inner courtyard

Shiva on Nandi, Kaala, makara...

Shiva on Nandi

Shiva on Nandi... front version

Shiva on Nandi... Kaala below, Abhaya hasta Shiva on top

Apsara

Kama / Kamadeva, the God of love, strikes Shiva with Kamabana

The west-facing pediment on southern library shows Shiva again seated on the summit of Mount Kailasha.

He is looking to his left at the god of love Kamadeva, who is aiming an arrow at him. Parvati sits to Shiva's right

after the death of his wife Sati, Shiva goes into a state of meditation to grieve her death. This results in a great imbalance in the world. Meanwhile, Sati is reborn as Parvati, and all the gods want Shiva to marry Parvati. Sensing this need, Indra sends Kama to arouse passion

The slopes of the mountain are crowded with other beings, again arranged in a strict hierarchy. Just under Shiva and Parvati sits a group of bearded wise saints and ascetics, under whom the second tier is occupied by the mythological beings with the heads of animals and the bodies of humans; the lowest tier belongs the common people, who mingle sociably with tame deer and large gentle cattle and other animals.

Kamadeva fires an arrow at Shiva to cause Shiva to take an interest in Parvati. Shiva and Parvati, however, are disturbed by this provocation and burn Kamadeva gazing upon him with their third eyes, burning Kamadeva to ashes ... they resurrect him later

Kaala again and Makara

Vaali-Sugriva battle, Rama kills Vaali:

Kaala and Makara in the lintel

The combat between Vali and Sugriva and Rama kills Vali is depicted on the western gopura pediment.

Kaala and Makara...

Kaala...

The west-facing pediment on the northern library depicts Vishnu as Krishna killing his own evil maternal uncle Kamsa in Mathura

Krishna killing his evil maternal uncle Kamsa:

Hamsa...swans

Apsara

The slaying of Jarasandha

Jarasandha was a tyrannical king of Magadha who had conquered many lands and imprisoned numerous kings.

Jarasandha had imprisoned 88 kings and planned to sacrifice them, but Krishna, along with the Pandavas, devised a plan to defeat him.

The battle between Bhima and Jarasandha lasted for 14 days, culminating in Bhima tearing Jarasandha in half.

Krishna, understanding Jarasandha's unique birth, guided Bhima to throw the two halves of Jarasandha's body in opposite directions, preventing them from rejoining.

Burning of the Khandava Forest:

The pediment below is where the scene is. Note the difficulty to see and enjoy because of the distance

Also there are 'models' galore posing for insta pictures.... adding to our problem!!

Fire god Agni had a stomach ailment and Brahma advised him to eat up the Kandhava Forest. Disguised as a brahmin, Agni went to Arjuna, one of the Pandavas, and requested that he was hungry and needed to be satiated. Arjuna could not refuse a request from a brahmin, he agreed to Agni’s request. Agni revealed himself and said the only way he could satiate his hunger was to consume the Khandava Forest by burning it. Arjuna reluctantly agreed to help him.

The Kandhava Forest was also the home of Takshaka, the king of nagas (snakes), and Maya, the architect of the asuras. When Agni started the fire, Takshaka was not in the forest, but his family was inside. So, he begged his friend Indra, king of the devas (demigods) and heaven, to help them escape the fire. Indra agreed and used his power to bring rain to the forest to douse the fire.

Arjuna tried to stop the rain by creating a layer of arrows. Meanwhile, Krishna stayed on the other side of the forest and helped Arjuna stop the rain.

While this battle was going on, Takshaka’s wife swallowed her son Ashvasena and tried to fly out of the forest. Realizing that she was trying to escape with her son, Arjuna cut her head off with his arrows but could not prevent Ashvasena from escaping the forest.

Maya also escaped the forest and then sought asylum from Arjuna. Eventually, Agni consumed the entire Khandava Forest

Now to explain the depiction here:

. On the top is Indra riding his vehicle Airavata and trying to bring down rain on the forest.

The layer underneath Indra depicts flowing water, giving an impression of rain coming down.

On the left is Arjuna shooting arrows to stop the rain.

Below the water, there are two layers of arrows, created by Arjuna, preventing the water from coming down.

On the right is Krishna, an avatar of Vishnu, holding his signature weapon, Sudarshana Chakra, helping Arjuna. Between Arjuna and Krishna is the forest with a chaotic scene of animals, Takshaka’s family, and Maya and other asuras trying to escape the fire.

Note the two multi-headed nagas in the middle of the arrow layers. These are Takshaka’s wife and their son Ashvasena. Ashvasena escaped Arjuna’s arrows through the brave action of his mother, who swallowed him to shield him him from the barrage of arrows. Although she died in the ordeal, she enabled Ashvasena to escape the fire.

Abduction of Sita by Ravan

Krishna holding up Govardhana giri

Lotus Pond...

Phnom Kulen National Park

Phnom Kulen National Park is a national park in Cambodia, located in the Phnom Kulen mountain massif in Siem Reap Province.

During the Khmer Empire the area was known as Mahendraparvata (the mountain of Great Indra) and was the place where King Jayavarman II had himself declared chakravartin (King of Kings), an act which is considered the foundation of the empire

It is 48 kilometres (30 mi) from Siem Reap and 25 kilometres (16 mi) from Prasat Banteay Srey via Charles De Gaulle Road. There are several nature features, historical places, and other sights.

Drive up Mount Kulen was quite scenic

Kulen Mountain Viewpoint [named Amazing cliff]

Red bananas

River of Thousand Lingas/ Kbal Spean

The River of a Thousand Lingas, also known as Kbal Spean [ lit. 'Bridge Head'], is an ancient Angkorian site, featuring intricate carvings of lingas (phallic symbols) and other Hindu deities on the sandstone riverbed.

It's a tributary of the Siem Reap River and is located in a deep jungle setting, northeast of Angkor, about 50 kilometers from Siem Reap.

An easy walk of about 1.5 kilometers is required to reach the site from the parking area.

The carvings are believed to have been created to sanctify the river, which flows into the Siem Reap River and eventually into the Tonle Sap Lake

The Holy Well:

This spring is where the Siem Reap river originates... This is a natural spring of crystal clear water which is nearby the 1000 Linga Carvings

River with 1000 Lingas

Preah Ang Thom Pagoda with Reclined Buddha:

8 metres (26 ft) tall statue of the reclining Buddha:

Preah Ang Thom is an 8 metres (26 ft) tall statue of the reclining Buddha reaching nirvana. The statue is carved into a huge sandstone boulder.

Preah Ang Thom is the sacred and worshipping god for Phnom Kulen.