Monday, July 11, 2016

California Road Trip: Yosemite, Sequoia & Kings Canyon Park, Hwy 1 Drive

We had a lovely trip to California on the long weekend of July 4th, 2016 (July 1, 2016 to July 5, 2016). 

We covered Yosemite, Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Park, and drove on the famed Highway 1 of California between Morro Bay and Monterey, visiting Hearst Castle, San Simeon, Morro Rock, Morro Bay, Elephant Seal Rookery in Piedro Blanca and Ragged Point.

Below is a map of the state of California... we can see San Francisco in the west coast (labeled in bold); Yosemite National Park, Kings Canyon NP, Sequoia NP are green patches to the east. Morro Bay is on the west coast with hwy 1 marked and Monterey is a little to the north of Morro Bay...all marked by blue arrows. Our trip line if drawn will look like a quadrilateral...




We had initial doubts about how sane it is to attempt such a trip in what is likely to be a supercrowded time of the year but it worked out for us.

Our videos:


Here’s the link for our videos. As usual there is music added and some frames are captioned.

covers Yosemite

covers Kings canyon and Sequoia national park, 

covers Hearst castle

covers Hwy 1 Morro rock, Elephant seal rookery, Ragged Point

Here is a report.

July 1, 2016:

 Frontier airlines:


We took the Frontier airlines 7.45 am flight from Houston to San Francisco. Our plan was to hit Yosemite, Sequoia and Kings Canyon Park, then drive the California Hwy 1 between Morro Bay and Monterey and then fly back to Houston.

Yes, it would have been better to fly in to Oakland or San Jose for less expensive car rental but for us direct flight to SFO was reasonably priced. We bought one carryon bag allowance (24''x 16''x 10'') to share for the both of us (not one each) and packed our free personal item (18''x 14''x 8'') as per the airline rules. We knew the seats are hard and they don’t recline. Also we’ll get only water free and have to pay for other food items. With these realistic expectations, both our flights on the frontier proved fine. The air craft was clean and they were on time, in fact a little early both ways.

It was a 4 1/2 hour flight, but SF being 2 hours behind CST, we reached at 9.45 am. The airport signage was clear and we took the skytrain to the car rentals. After almost an hour at the Budget car rental line we were on our way. 

Drive: San Francisco International Airport to Yosemite



Our plan on paper was as follows:
San Francisco International Airport to Yosemite: Distance: 195 mi / 314 km
Time:4-5 hours

Take I-580 east to I-205 east
Follow to Highway 132 east.
At Modesto hwy 99south,
At Merced hwy 140 east. .. enter town and hit Raley’s for groceries

Continue thru Mariposa on 140east
Cedar lodge on right.

Our GPS was totally useless and misguided us on this leg. We took 101S and it took a while to hit 580. 

We should have hit Manteca and then taken 99S. We wasted some time on this section before hitting Modesto. From then it was good. At Merced, we hit Raley’s and stocked up and reached our hotel, Yosemite Cedar lodge at El Portal.

Yosemite Cedar lodge at El Portal:






We would have loved to stay inside the Park but accommodation had been booked up quite early. However we had no complaints with Cedar lodge. It’s just 8 miles from Yosemite entrance.


After checkin, we drove on to Yosemite.


We reached the entrance a little before 8 PM. The Park is open 24x7; it never closes though certain roads may be closed due to snowy weather conditions


We bought our pass and went in to drive the loop. Needless to say we had the roads and the valley almost to ourselves. It was a great sight!




National Park

Yosemite National Park:


https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/index.htm is the official site and gives loads of info on all trails.

The name "Yosemite" (meaning "killer" in Miwok) originally referred to the name of a renegade tribe which was driven out of the area (and possibly annihilated). Before then the area was called "Ahwahnee" ("big mouth") by indigenous people. 

Yosemite is famous for its spectacular granite cliffs especially El Capitan (The Captain) and the Half Dome, waterfalls (Bridalveil and Yosemite falls among others), clear streams, giant sequoia groves (not accessible right now as Mariposa grove is closed till 2017 for renovation), beautiful lakes, spectacular mountains, glaciers, and biological diversity. It is a World Heritage Site. It is indeed spectacular!






Here's the American Robin...


Plunging 620 feet (189 meters), Bridalveil Fall is the first waterfall we see when entering Yosemite Valley. In spring, it thunders; during the rest of the year, it has a characteristic light, swaying flow.


 




The best time to see waterfalls is during spring, when most of the snowmelt occurs. Peak runoff typically occurs in May or June, with some waterfalls (including Yosemite Falls) often only a trickle or completely dry by August. Storms in late fall rejuvenate some of the waterfalls.  During our visit the falls we saw did have some flow and we enjoyed the general ambience.




 The day light started fading. We reached the gate at 9 PM as per plan and drove back to our lodge.

July 2, 2016:


In the morning the original plan was to pack up, check out and leave by 6 am. After enjoying the Yosemite Park for a while we wanted to get to the Wawona entrance and exit via that to Hwy 41 S (to Fresno), 180 East Kings Canyon Park. We did not manage to do the packing, so drove to the park.

Yosemite National Park Again:


We were at the entrance at 6.30 am. The counter was closed with instructions to pass on; anyways we had our pass valid for a year and we drove on. Again awesome sight with just a handful of people, here and there.

The valley is about 8 miles (13 km) long and up to a mile deep, surrounded by high granite summits such as Half Dome and El Capitan, and densely forested with pines.

Yosemite Valley represents only one percent of the park area, but this is where most visitors arrive and stay. 

More than half a dozen creeks tumble from hanging valleys at the top of granite cliffs that rise 3000–4000 feet (900–1200 m) above the valley floor, which itself is 4000 ft (1200 m) above sea level. These streams combine into the Merced River, which flows out from the western end of the valley, down the rest of its canyon to the San Joaquin Valley


The flat floor of Yosemite Valley holds both forest and large open meadows, which provide breathtaking views of the surrounding crests and waterfalls.
 

We stopped at the Lower Yosemite Falls trailhead and took the trail.

Lower Yosemite Falls trail: 


Yosemite Falls is the highest waterfall in Yosemite National Park, dropping a total of 2,425 feet (739 m) from the top of the upper fall to the base of the lower fall. Upper Yosemite Fall’s 1,430-foot (440 m) plunge is among the twenty highest waterfalls in the world

Lower Yosemite Fall: The final 320-foot (98 m) drop is adjacent to an accessible viewing area. Yosemite Creek emerges from the base of the Lower Fall and flows into the Merced River nearby. 
 


This is a commemorative plaque to John Muir (1838-1914) who was an early advocate of preservation of wilderness...


The Ahwahneechee people called the waterfall "Cholock" ("the fall") and believed that the plunge pool at its base was inhabited by the spirits of several witches, called the Poloti. An Ahwaneechee folktale describes a woman going to fetch a pail of water from the pool, and drawing it out full of snakes. Later that night, after the woman had trespassed into their territory, the spirits caused the woman's house to be sucked into the pool by a powerful wind, taking the woman and her newborn baby with it.
 


Had some serene moments alone with the tumbling waterfall and then retraced our way.

Here's John Muir again...


Went round the loop once again and were out of the gate at 9.30 am. There was a long line of cars waiting to get in… earlier when we were inside we had seen a packed shuttle. We could understand the level of crowds inside the park during the day.

We went to the lodge, packed up, checked out, surrendering our keys. We had planned to take the road via Mariposa but the receptionist told us we’ll be better off going through the Yosemite Park despite the queue at the entrance.


Tunnel View:


So again we were at the Yosemite entrance at 11 am, of course with a long line of cars ahead. It took us exactly 1 hour to enter, we took the fork to Wawona… got to the tunnel view. Lots of cars and people here and we joined them for a look.

  
Tunnel View is called the Inspiration Point: This spot gives the world-famous overview of the whole valley, including El Capitan, Bridalveil Fall and Half Dome. 

It was the spot where the first non-native Americans "discovered" the valley and we loved it.




Then we drove into the tunnel, reversed when we were out and drove back in for the famed tunnel view. It was LOVELY! 




We did it once more driving the tunnel again and then regretfully exited the park.  





We hit 41 S and then 180 East. Here we met with confusion when there was a sign saying 180 East hwy ends. We saw signs for Sanger Kings Canyon on hwy 41 running up and parallel, then took that and it ultimately took us to 180 East again, though it was not a hwy anymore. This confusion did cost us some time. Quite scenic as we neared Kings canyon park.

Kings Canyon Park: 


We got in through the Big Stump entrance, drove on following signs and reached our John Muir Lodge. 


John Muir Lodge:


Beautiful setting amid tall coniferous trees. We got a room in the 3rd floor, carried our bags up and settled for the night. With the driving delays we could not sneak in a drive into the Grant Grove as we had planned for that day.






Humans have inhabited the area for thousands of years. Kings Canyon had been known to white settlers since the mid-19th century, but the canyon began receiving attention only after John Muir first visited in 1873. Muir was delighted at the canyon's similarity to Yosemite Valley; both valleys were carved by massive glaciers during the last Ice Age.

Kings Canyon National Park consists of two sections. The small, detached General Grant Grove section preserves several groves of giant sequoias, including the General Grant Grove, with the famous General Grant Tree, and the Redwood Mountain Grove, which is the largest remaining natural grove of giant sequoias in the world covering 3,100 acres and with 15,800 sequoia trees over 1 foot (30 cm) in diameter at their bases This section of the park is mostly mixed conifer forest, and is readily accessible via paved highways.

The remainder of Kings Canyon National Park, which comprises over 90% of the total area of the park, is located to the east of General Grant Grove and forms the headwaters of the South and Middle Forks of the Kings River and the South Fork of the San Joaquin River. Both the South and Middle Forks of the Kings Rivers have canyons. One portion of the South Fork canyon, known as the Kings Canyon, gives the entire park its name. Kings Canyon, with a maximum depth of 8,200 feet (2,500 m), is one of the deepest canyons in the United States. The Kings Canyon, and its developed area, Cedar Grove, is the only portion of the main part of the park that is accessible by motor vehicle.

July 3, 2016:

 General Grant tree:

We were at Grant Grove at 6.30 am and were the first at the car park. The trail to General Grant tree starts from here and has signboards explaining facts.






The General Grant tree is the largest giant sequoia in the General Grant Grove section of Kings Canyon National Park and the second largest tree in the world. The tree was named in 1867 after Ulysses S. Grant, Union Army general and the 18th President of the United States (1869–1877). President Coolidge proclaimed it the "Nation's Christmas Tree" on April 28, 1926.  

President Eisenhower declared the tree a "National Shrine", a memorial to those who died in war. General Grant tree is 1,700 years old.

Fallen Monarch:


We walked through the Fallen Monarch. The sequoia trees don’t rot fast even after dying and last for hundreds and even thousands of years on the forest floor; this fallen tree has been lying for more than 100 years without decay.


 We loved the sight of General Grant tree towering amidst coniferous trees.

We came out, did the short drive back to our lodge and checked out. We had originally planned to get out on 180 West, the same Big Stump entrance we had entered the park. But after seeing General Grant tree we wanted to see General Sherman tree also. There was a young ranger there and he told us we can take the General’s hwy and see General Sherman tree and then exit the park via 198 West. He said it has lots of switchbacks but is really scenic. We should try and include Moro rock and the tunnel before we exit.



General Sherman tree:


We followed his advice and reached General Sherman tree car park by 9.30 am. The shuttle was there and we took it to the tree. Great trail and great signboards as before. 



The Tree is of course awesome: height of 83.8 meters (275 ft), a diameter of 7.7 m (25 ft), and age of 2,300–2,700 years, it is among the tallest, widest and longest-lived of all trees on the planet.



 We saw the Tough Twins also.


This is a cross section piece of a 2210 year old giant sequoia, which had to be cut as it leaned over a rental cottage in the grove. They've stopped having any cottages in the grove now, of course!


There were just a handful of people; we could enjoy peaceful moments with the towering trees all around us and take our pics with General Sherman tree without any queue.

Fire and sequoia trees:


We see fire damage and a charred triangle in many sequoia trees including the great trees. 


Here’s an interesting analysis:

Sequoias rely on fire to release most seeds from their cones, to expose bare mineral soil in which seedlings can take root, to recycle nutrients into the soil, and to open holes in the forest canopy through which sunlight can reach young seedlings.

Sequoias also need fire to reduce competition from species such as white fir (Abies concolor) and Incense cedar (Calocedrus decurrens), which are shade-tolerant and able to recruit seedlings in heavy litter and duff. Fire suppression has resulted in heavy accumulation of forest litter and the encroachment of thick stands of white fir and incense cedar, both of which compete with sequoias for water and nutrients. A natural fire cycle thins these competing species, and provides suitable conditions for sequoia growth.

Amazing!!

Now one more fact… when we mention these trees are the largest, we would like to draw attention to the criteria governing the parameter. Here only the trunk is taken into account, not the branches of the tree and the volume of the trunk is the criteria. We have seen huge banyan trees in India occupying up to 150000 sq ft area with their branches and the entire canopy. We understood why these sequoia trees are called the largest when we got to know the criteria.

We took the shuttle back at 10.30 AM and started driving the General’s hwy. We wanted to do the Big Trees trail too but of course parking is far away, nearby spots had been taken. We drove slowly through the lovely forest of sequoia groves. We realized that Moro rock also can be visited only by shuttle on holidays. We regretfully exited the park. 198 West was indeed a scenic drive with several switchbacks and we enjoyed the drive and the views.


http://adventuretrav.blogspot.com/2016/07/ca-road-trip-ii-morro-rock-elephant.html

covers the next concluding part of this road trip: Morro rock, Elephant seal rookery, Ragged point and Hearst castle

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