Friday, May 13, 2016

Venice Trip Report Day 3: Murano, Burano

May 31, 2014, Saturday


This was practically our last day of the trip as we had a morning flight the next day. We visited the beautiful islands of Murano, Burano and had a great time.

video covers Rialto bridge, Murano

video covers Murano, Burano

How to reach Murano

From the Piazzale Roma or Ferrovia (the bus and railroad stations):

Ride the Line 3 "Diretto Murano" boat, which takes 17 minutes to reach Murano Colonna from the railroad station. Stay on the boat if you'd rather get off at Faro, Navagero, Museo, or Venier.

The 4.1 waterbus, which is slower than the 3 with local stops along the way.

ACTV's Line 4.2 waterbus, which will take you to Murano by way of the Fondamente Nove and the cemetery island of San Michele in just over 40 minutes. (Or you can ride the Line 4.1 boat, which goes to Murano in the reverse direction via the Giudecca Canal, but the voyage will take nearly an hour.)

Murano

The ride was enjoyable and we reached Murano…


This is a monument park for veterans...



The island has its fair share of lovely architecture and bridges...



Glass sculpture displays add to the magic...





This is the Faro (light house) pier...with lovely glass birds...

Murano was a commercial port as far back as the 7th Century, and by the 10th Century it had grown into a prosperous trading center with its own coins, police force, and commercial aristocracy. Then, in 1291, the Venetian Republic ordered glassmakers to move their foundries to Murano ostensibly because the glassworks represented a fire danger in Venice, whose buildings were mostly wooden at the time.  Probably it was just to maintain the monopoly; It was a lot easier to keep track of them if they were confined to an island.

That’s the story of how glassworks in Murano came into being.

What made Murano's glassmakers so special? For one thing, they were the only people in Europe who knew how to make glass mirrors. They also developed or refined technologies such as crystalline glass, enameled glass (smalto), glass with threads of gold (aventurine), multicolored glass (millefiori), milk glass (lattimo), and imitation gemstones made of glass. Their virtual monopoly on quality glass lasted for centuries

The excellence continues… we visited a glass factory and saw a demo. The furnace is at 500C and we saw a vase and fish being made… great! 


Then we wandered around the island enjoying the awesome craft on display.



We had walked on to the Faro pier.


Then we joined a long line and took the vaporetto to Burano.

Burano

 Burano is a fishing village of brilliantly painted houses, known historically for its lace making. 



It was a pleasure walking through the fairy tale setting.









We wound our way back to the pier



We wanted to make it to Torcello too but realized the distances are big.

We reluctantly made our way back to our familiar San Marco pier.


This is the Vittorio Emanuele monument... the first ruler of unified Italy... 






We called it a day when darkness set in.

June 1, 2014, Sunday:

We had left before 8 AM on Saturday the previous day and the office at our apartment of course had been locked… we had had no checkout briefing for Sunday when we were leaving…

Earlier over email I had enquired about their airport shuttle … son was leaving by 11.30am flight from Marco polo and my flight was at 3.30pm… they said their shuttle was 20 euros per person, no matter if the same shuttle was shared by 2 people. I had thought I’ll stay around in the lovely gardens till 12.30 on one of the lounges and then take their shuttle…

Now after facing the harsh reality, Moro Lin shuttle was ruled out… there had been a TA review that the shuttle had ditched some one… did not want to be fleeced by private taxi guys also. Reaching the train station in Mestre to take the train to the airport was also a little difficult as we have to call a taxi.
So the previous day we had bought tickets for the airport shuttle leaving from Piazzale Roma… it’s kind of like touching the nose by arching the hand around the back of the head!! But the route was familiar and easy to do by public transport.

We decided we’ll go to Piazzale Roma and take the direct airport shuttle itself… so at 6.50am on Sunday, we left Moro Lin, taking a video of everything, locking the door, leaving the key there itself, closing the wooden door over that, showing our watch, showing the office room locked and got out!

A bus full of people going to Venice came our way at the bus stop near the apartment, we reached Piazzale Roma, the airport shuttle left at precisely 7.50 and reached the airport at 8.05… son took leave at 10.30 am…

I sat near the escalator watching 2 elderly ladies fall and a Chinese lady near me telling horror stories of how she had seen a young girl wearing flipflops get her toes sniped on an escalator!

Went for my check in by 1 and heaved a huge sigh of relief when the plane took off…the pleasant memories by far outweighed the niggles posed by Moro Lin fiasco…

Paris, Rome, Florence and Venice are all stunning in their own way and it’s a privilege to be able to spend some time enjoying the treasures they offer!

I'll continue with other European countries a little later.

As of now, I'm starting a post on our recent trip to South Africa and Zimbabwe!
covers the planning stage

Venice Trip Report Day 2: Doge's Palace, St Mark's Bell tower

May 30, 2014, Friday:

We came down from our Antico Moro hotel room at 7.10 am, with our bags packed, requested Antico Moro owner to ring up Moro Lin guy. He spoke to him in Italian and said, “Your room will be ready only at 11, so he said he’ll come and pick up your bags then and your bags will be in your room when you return in the evening. You can leave your bags here and go”

I said “I need my keys… we’ll return only by 8/9 PM and I don’t want a repeat of yesterday, standing at the gate… waiting for some one to open the door”

He said, “Not my problem… my friend told me to keep your bags… he’ll collect it at 11; you can go”
He dragged our bags into a small room, banged the door shut and walked off…

I said “I need my keys… let me talk to him”
He said “Shhh…keep your voice low…the keys are not ready… the room will be ready at 11”
I said “I need the duplicate keys… let me talk to him, I’m NOT leaving till I get my keys”

He said “Shhh… don’t wake up my customers”

I said “I NEED MY KEYS

He ran to the phone and dialed Moro Lin guy… meanwhile my son was telling me in our language, “These are mafia guys… they do what they want…I don’t want you getting hurt… let’s leave… we’ll ask him to collect the key and we’ll come back here in the evening, get the key and go there”

Moro Lin guy was on line; he sounded sleepy, said, “I’ll collect your bags at 11, Senora!”
I told him, “This is not about the bags… I need keys…I don’t want a repeat of yesterday’s waiting”

“Aaahh… the keys…” he said, “OK, where are you?”
I said “At Antico Moro”
He said “I’m coming in 10 min”

We waited for 15 minutes and I requested Antico Moro guy to telephone him again… he did so, said “He’s coming!”

 He did come in another 5 min, took our bags … Antico Moro guy was heaving an exaggerated sigh of relief!!! Hmm.. I'm being painted as the bad guy here, just for asking for keys to the apartment I've paid for! 

We were driven to the same office, and were going through checkin formalities… he wanted the credit card for immediate payment… at the same rate…

I asked No discount for our trouble? We stayed in a small room, no kitchen, so much waiting …”

He shrugged, “I drove you up and down… so it’s all adjusted… there will be a bowl of fruit and bottled water in the apt when you return”

 I had read in TripAdvisor reviews that is customary for all visitors…
He said “You can leave and find a new place if you don’t want to stay here”

To add to all the trouble, I knew on that day May 30th, there was a local transport strike. I had asked the Antico Moro guy, “I read the buses will ply till 9am so that office goers won’t be affected and then again resume at 6… is that right?”he had nodded… I had told him, “That’s one reason, I want to go to Venice early...don’t want to be stuck in Mestre during the strike”

I told MoroLin guy, “There is a transport strike today, hurry up and let’s leave… I saw buses on the road”

He shrugged.. I again repeated my understanding of the strike hours… he nodded.

(One of the TA reviews mentions that they were not informed about the strike by the Moro Lin people and had to hire an expensive taxi t go to Venice... oh, well, you really have to look out for yourself, I guess!)

We got the keys and were told ours was apt no 2… which key opens the side gate and which one the apt… no other briefing and we were on our way

Thankfully caught a bus from just near the estate …

Now like an idiot, I didn’t check with anybody else about availability of bus in the evening… I trusted these 2 that the strike was nothing to worry about after 6pm!

OK, Now on to our day’s sight seeing…

We got down at Piazzale Roma as usual.

Here’s the famous Rialto bridge (Italian: Ponte di Rialto)


It is one of the four bridges spanning the Grand Canal and is the oldest bridge across the canal (1591). The present stone bridge, a single span, is similar to the wooden bridge it succeeded. Two inclined ramps lead up to a central portico.
On either side of the portico, the covered ramps carry rows of shops. The engineering of the bridge was considered so audacious that architect Vincenzo Scamozzi predicted future ruin. The bridge has defied its critics to become one of the architectural icons of Venice

There are several gondolas available for hire... several options around 100 euros...

The uniformed gondola guys are ever present...Note to self: never ever buy similar striped tees...


We got similar rides with our vaporetto pass and were OK with not hiring a private gondola!
 


We didn't have a strict agenda for Venice as we had seen the best of the best in the earlier cities covered...PARIS, ROMA, FIRENZE...if we had been keen on covering all the Venice museums, churches, we would have considered buying the museum /church passes. 


Entry to each church is €3; http://www.chorusvenezia.org/en/pass
Gives info on church pass which is priced at €12. As said earlier, after the grand churches, palaces, museums in Rome and Florence, we did not feel the need to visit all the churches, museums in Venice.

 We did want to go to San Giorgio Maggiore but with the strike on, no vaporetto was plying. The tip is to climb the bell tower of San Giorgio Maggiore for views instead of facing the long queues at San Marco bell tower. We had planned to do so, but we were stuck on this side… we walked about enjoying the beauty all around.

We entered a few churches...






We entered a free library and admired the exhibits.






The shops are veritable museums with lovely crafts in marble, bronze and of course the famous Murano glass...




Doge's Palace

We then visited Doge’s palace. The Doge's Palace (Italian: Palazzo Ducale) is a palace built in Venetian Gothic style. The palace was the residence of the Doge of Venice, the supreme authority of the Republic of Venice. Along with being the ducal residence, the palace housed political institutions of the Republic of Venice until the Napoleonic occupation of the city in 1797, when its role inevitably changed. Venice was subjected first to French rule, then to Austrian, and finally in 1866 it became part of Italy. The palace opened as a museum in 1923.

No pics allowed in the palace. These are just shots of the ceilings in passages, halls...






 The crowning production of Tintoretto's life, the vast Paradise,  size 22.6m x 9.1 m (74.1 x 29.9 feet), the largest painting ever done upon canvas is great.

This is the courtyard...





Since the 16th century, the palace has been linked to the prison by the Bridge of Sighs. 

Bridge of Sighs

A corridor leads over the Bridge of Sighs, built in 1614 to link the Doge’s Palace to the structure intended to house the New Prisons. Enclosed and covered on all sides, the bridge contains two separate corridors that run next to each other. That which visitors use today linked the Prisons to the chambers of the Magistrato alle Leggi and the Quarantia Criminal; the other linked the prisons to the State Advocacy rooms and the Parlatorio. Both corridors are linked to the service staircase that leads from the ground floor cells of the Pozzi to the roof cells of the Piombi. The famous name of the bridge dates from the Romantic period and refers to the sighs of prisoners who, passing from the courtroom to the cell in which they would serve their sentence, took a last look at freedom as they glimpsed the lagoon and San Giorgio through the small windows.



San Marco Campanile

Then we joined the short queue for going up the bell tower of San Marco, €8 pp for the elevator… as evening drew near, crowd had thinned and the line was short. 


We took the elevator and enjoyed awesome views.









Around 7.30 PM, we bought fruits, milk, yogurt, juice etc in the COOP near the pier, came to Piazzale Roma, and waited for our bus… it was raining steadily… we had brought one umbrella… our jackets were water proof, the hat kept some rain off but it was a mess…buses came in, even ours with board Noale and then after the passengers disembarked they put on Fuori service boards and drove away!

It took us some time to realize we won’t get a bus… we went to the train station, bought tickets to VE Mestre, got into a train going to Paduva and got out at Mestre… we tried to cross the road and hail a taxi that had come but a Chinese couple beat us to it!

We saw a huge queue at the station entrance for taxi… we went to Hotel Plaza reception and requested them to call us a taxi on their phone… the nice guys there tried for some 10 minutes but the line was busy and they said that’s the scenario when it rains and there is a strike!

I had the google map showing the way to MoroLin.. I showed them and asked for specifics on where to start… they said it’s a highway and very dangerous. OK, we did not want an accident on top of all the junk we were facing… We went to join the taxi queue and after an hour, got a taxi, which took us on a convoluted route and dropped us at the gate for some €15!

We went with trepedition to our apt… the lights were on, the TV was playing, a big bowl of fruits waited on the table in a classy apt with lofty ceilings, chandelier and the whole works!!



Needed a hot shower, after poking around in the washroom, Son found a thermostat behind a curtain near the kitchen area and seeing a water sign on it turned the knob and managed to get hot water running. After hunting for a lighter to light the gas stove, I found out it was the self ignition type…. Made pasta, determined that we won’t let others ruin our day, had a generous helping of the fruits and we slept in the spacious beautiful house.


covers our day trip to the lovely Murano, Burano islands