We had an amazing vacation from Nov 11 - 30, 2021 in beautiful Turkey. Here are a few pictures:
Hagia Sophia, and Blue Mosque, Istanbul
Its vibrant culture, famous food, and vast history wow all who venture here, while its glorious landscapes, from the sun-soaked Mediterranean to the mighty mountains and arid steppe, are tourist attractions in themselves.
We enjoyed lapping up the Byzantine and Ottoman glories of Istanbul with a stay of 7 nights there, split into 4n, at the start and 3 n at the end, we enjoyed the beach scenario and the myriad water falls of Antalya and Side, delved into history wandering through ruins such as Aspendos and Perge, Ephesus, Aphrodisias and saw some of the world's most surreal panoramas in Pamukkale and Cappadocia, this country offers visitors a wide range of things to do.
What we missed out on this trip are the following just to mention a few:
the Black Sea Coast in Turkey's northeast region..., Sumela Monastery (Monastery of the Virgin Mary) built into a cliff face
The top sightseeing drawcard for eastern Turkey, Mount Nemrut's summit funerary mound scattered with the broken remnants of once mammoth statues,
TURKEY TRIP LOGISTICS
We looked at options for an immediate vacation, and Turkey's evisa looked doable.
There were no COVID protocols other than having vax cert.
Turkish airlines had a direct flight from Houston-Istanbul and we booked Nov 11 to Nov 30 flight on Nov 3rd
EVISA
We got our evisa from the official site:
Avoid scamsters who pretend to be the official site and then charge money for this free service. Our US credit cards were not getting accepted by the site, my brother's UK card did the trick
HES [ Hayat Eve Sığar ] code
Then got a HES [ Hayat Eve Sığar ] code from this site https://register.health.gov.tr/just before boarding our flight. [it's a personal code to allow safe travel in these COVID times and is mandatory before flights. Our HES code worked for our whole trip]
WHEN TO GO?
For us this Turkey vacation was planned in just a week, when couple of other options fell through. But I find this analysis below interesting and am adding it here for future use. Skip to next header if not interested
[Spring (March through mid-June) is prime because the weather is moderate throughout the country and the days are long. (April can be rainy) This is high season for Istanbul and Cappadocia, with many boutique hotels fully booked, and prices at their highest. However, it's the off-season for Aegean and Mediterranean beach resorts.
Autumn (mid-September through October) is second best with mostly mild weather, but the days are shorter, and rain may begin again in October. This, too, is high season for Istanbul and Cappadocia, with many boutique hotels heavily booked at their highest prices. At beach resorts, the water is still warm, crowds are smaller, and prices lower.
Summer (mid-June through mid-September) is hot in five of Turkey's seven distinct climatic regions, though usually rainless, and cool inland in the evenings. Seaside resorts are crowded and prices are at their peak, but the cities are less crowded—Istanbul is a bargain, with smaller crowds and shorter lines for admission to sights. Cappadocia is cheaper and more comfortable as well.
Winter (November, through February) can be chilly and rainy, with occasional cold but sunny days, everywhere except the southeast, which remains temperate, but lower prices and fewer tourists are compensations. travel to Turkey in March and November to benefit from the lower prices, better availability of hotel rooms, and smaller crowds.]
WHERE TO GO?
These are the regions in Turkey. Again I'm including this for future use. Skip to the next header and our itinerary if you don't need elaborate explanations!
[[Marmara
The countryside around Istanbul, Edirne, Bursa and the Sea of Marmara is low hills and rolling farmland excellent for fruit orchards (apricots, grapes, peaches) as well as vegetables, sunflowers and grain.
South of Bursa are higher mountains (2500+ meters/8200 feet).
Rainfall averages 668 mm/26 inches per year; temperatures range from a low of -16C/3F in the depths of winter to 40C/104F on the hottest day in summer. It's quite humid (average 73%).
The Aegean region centered on İzmir is a true breadbasket, with low hills and higher mountains framing fertile valleys full of rich alluvial soil. The dependable summer sun produces bumper crops of tobacco, sunflowers, olives, figs, peaches, pears and apples.
Rainfall averages 645 mm/25 inches per year; temperatures range from -8C/18F to 43C/109F, with average humidity of 69%.
Mediterranean
Turkey's southern shore is hemmed in by high mountain ranges. There's some beach from Fethiye to Antalya, but east of Antalya the littoral broadens into the fertile Pamphylian plain(which is where you find Side) fringed with white sand beach.
Not far east of Alanya the mountains come down to the sea again, all the way east to Antakya, keeping this coast very hot and humid in summer: maximum 45C/113F, minimum -5C/23F; rainfall is 777 mm/31 inches.
The center of Turkey is high plateau (elevation 900m/3000 feet at Ankara) of rolling steppe framed by mountain ranges, some of which boast snow-capped dormant volcanoes. (It was the volcanic Mt Erciyes near Kayseri that formed the Central Anatolian moonscape of Cappadocia.)
The land produces summer and winter wheat and other crops, and feeds millions of grazing sheep. Temperatures range from -25C/-13F to 40C/104F, with rainfall of only 382 mm/15 inches per year. The average humidity is 62%.
Turkey's Black Sea coast, 1700 km/1000 miles long, is surprisingly lush and green because of its 781 mm/31 inches of annual rainfall dropped as the winds crossing the Black Sea rise to vault the coastal mountains.
It's cloudy much of the time, which seems to suit the tobacco fields. Cherries originated here, and are still grown in abundance, as are hazelnuts (filberts), of which Turkey supplies half the world's requirements.
The lush grass feeds cattle which produce Turkey's best milk, cream and butter. The humid coast east of Trabzon is perfect for growing tea bushes. In the steep evergreen-choked valleys above, you might think you're in Central Europe, though warmer.
Temperatures range from -8C/18F to 40C/104F, with an average humidity of 72%.
Mountainous, rugged and chilly, eastern Turkey is an elemental place where temperatures drop to -43C/-45F in deep winter, and rise to 38C/100F in summer, though the annual average is just 9C/48F.
June to September are the best months to visit unless you're going skiing at Palandöken just outside Erzurum.
Rainfall is 560 mm/22 inches. It's relatively poor country, with wheat fields, fruit and nut orchards, and lots of grazing sheep.
Down near Syria on the banks of the rivers Tigris (at Diyarbakır) and Euphrates (near Şanlıurfa) it's hot most of the time: up to 46C/115F in high summer (and—unusually—a low of -12C/10F some winters).
It's dry, with only 576 mm/23 inches of rainfall, but lots of water from the gigantic Southeast Anatolia Project (GAP) irrigation and hydroelectric power system centered near Şanlıurfa. Crops love the heat and grow fast. People go slow, and mostly in the shade. The best time to visit is anytime except summer (mid-June through mid-September).]]
OUR ACCOMMODATIONS:
ALL WERE AMAZING AND ADDED TO OUR enjoyment. They are as follows:
ISTANBUL 4 Nights Nov 12-16
Tom Square Boutique hotel top floor apartment in Beyazit area [hotel arranged airport taxi to SAW airport for our morning flight to Cappadocia 30 euros]
CAPPADOCIA 3 Nights Nov 16-19
Travel Inn Cave hotel, Goreme [breakfast included and the owner arranged our balloon ride for 70 euros]
ANTALYA 4 nights Nov 19-23
Ale Boutique Apartments
SELCUK: 2 nights Nov 23-25
Ephesus Centrum
PAMUKKALE 2 nights Nov 25-27
Haciely Thermal apartments
ISTANBUL 3 Nights Nov 27-30
Tom Square Boutique hotel again , this time the lower apartment
INTERNAL FLIGHTS AND CAR RENTALS, Taxi/bus from Istanbul airport:
We flew Pegasus Istanbul SAW to Cappadocia Kayseri airport. They did not allow web check in for foreign passports. Only one cabin bag allowed, no personal item.
We flew Pegasus Izmir to Istanbul. We booked the 3.30 pm flight to IST, they sent an email rescheduling for 7.30pm two days before the flight. We called the number and rescheduled for earlier flight . This time they allowed web checkin as our data was already wth them. I took a small camera bag as personal item after seeing many carry more bags and much bigger bags as cabin bags.
We noticed they had rescheduled our flight into SAW only when we were waiting for boarding. We had planned on taking HAVAIST 12 from IST. We talked to the taxis lining up at the exit. One guy asked for 250 lira flat, another guy said meter and will come to 260 liras. We took the latter.... it was a hair raising ride. We survived and paid him the 300 lira he asked.
Our hotel arranged airport taxi twice, once to SAW, Istanbul at 6 am, then to IST at 10 am. both 30 euros each
AVEC CAR RENTALS
We rented car at the airport from AVEC at Kayseri Cappadocia, Antalya and Izmir all from AVEC.
Van was waiting for us at Cappadocia airport.
At Antalya, we had to activate our US phone for 10 usd and call them for pickup.
At Izmir, they have a counter at the airport.
All in all good , new automatic transmission cars, pleasant experience, we took full insurance.
We loved their gesture of a welcome pack with 2 small bottles of water and masks in a nice cover!
OFFLINE MAPS:
Our drives and other sight seeing was with offline google maps downloaded before the trip and important places pinned as we do for all our trips.
FOOD AND WATER:
We are vegetarians and self catered as usual. BIM was within 500 m walk to all our accommodations and was a great source for buying provisions, chocolates, ice cream tubs etc.
we used our BRITA water filter bottle to filter the tap water everywhere and we were fine
OUR ITINERARY:
NOV 11, 2021, THURSDAY:
Boarded our direct flight from Houston on Turkish airlines. They checked our evisa, HS code, vaccination certificates all of which which we had printed out and kept ready with our passports. We had our nedical insurance and hotel accommodations also, they did not ask for them.
NOV 12, 2021, FRIDAY:
landed at Istanbul. Could not take out money from ATM or buy Istanbulkarts for transport or museum passes. We went to the HAVAIST bus right outside the exit. We had to board #12, they accepted credit card for the 35 lira fare but said the bus will not go up to Beyazit, it'll stop at Aksaray. We got in. it was a mad house at Aksaray and after a while we managed to buy just the 20 lira transport ticket and boarded the tram 1 and got to our stop Beyazit.... just 2 stops ride. Walked the 600 m to our hotel. Checked in and crashed for the day. It was 11pm with all the delays.
NOV 13, 2021, SATURDAY:
Istanbulkart buying struggles. Then made it to Sultanahmet, walked to National archaeological museum complex. They had only the 5 day Istanbul museum pass at 360 liras. Bought that. Enjoyed all the museums in the grounds, detailed report, pics, videos will be in the report of the day which follows later
NOV 14, 2021, SUNDAY:
Dolmabahçe palace, is closed on Monday. They did not accept the museum card and there was additional 60 liras for the Paintings on top of the 150 lira entry . Nice palace marred by over aggressive docents who kept yelling at visitors for daring to take a pic with their phones.
NOV 15, 2021, MONDAY:
Topkapi palace, Turkish and Islamic Arts museum
NOV 16, 2021, TUESDAY:
Pegasus flight to Cappadocia from SAW airport. Took a taxi arranged by hotel.... a big airport van for 30 euros at 6 am for the 9.30 flight. Drove from KAYSARI airport to Goreme, checked in, hiked Pasabag valley
.
NOV 17, 2021, WEDNESDAY:
balloon ride, Goreme open air museum. Goreme panaroma, Derinkuyu underground city, Paradise valley
balloon ride pickup at 6 am.... ride from 7-8.
then after breakfast we drove to Goreme Open air museum. bought Turkey 15 day pass pretty straight forward route clearly marked. dark church etc were great.
Then we tried to replicate the green tour, went to the Panorama outlook and then on to Derinkuyu underground city and Uchisar, Paradise valley
NOV 18, 2021, THURSDAY:
watched the balloons from our room.
then drove to Ihlara valley and hiked. it was lovely.
Then Selime monastery, pretty steep hike. Wound up the day with the pigeon valley outlook
NOV 19, 2021, FRIDAY:
watched balloons from hotel terrace.
Avanos pottery village [so cute] on our drive back to airport.
Varied experiences and we were very happy it was all our choice and at our pace.
NOV 20, 2021, SATURDAY:
Antalya Archeological Museum [terrific], Karaalioglu park [meh]
NOV 21, 2021, SUNDAY:
Hadrian's gate, Perge [awesome], Aspendos [fab], wound up with the lovely Kursunlu falls
NOV 22, 2021, MONDAY:
Manavgat falls [gushing and great], Side [quaint and lovely], Duden falls [terrific]
NOV 23, 2021, TUESDAY:
Flight to Izmir after returning the car at 7.15 am at Antalya airport and taking the 9.30 flight. Collecting car at Izmir airport, drove to Selcuk. After check in, saw the Ephesus museum [great], Temple of Artemis, Roman aqueduct and walked through the pretty town.
NOV 24, 2021, WEDNESDAY:
Ephesus [great], Merymana [awesome drive on steep windy roads] wound up with great views from Selcuk castle
NOV 25, 2021, THURSDAY:
checked out and drove to Pamukale, visiting Aphrodisias on the way... lovely ruins once again
NOV 26, 2021, FRIDAY:
Pamukale travertine terraces and Hieropolis , both fantastic
NOV 27, 2021, SATURDAY:
Drove back to Izmir airport with rain in some parts of the way. Took the flight to Istanbul SAW, picked up a taxi from the lines, got to our hotel. Checked in
NOV 28, 2021, SUNDAY:
Sultanahmet square, Hagia sofya [had a calm and serene time inside to our delight]: ARASTA BAZAAR [excellent quality], MOSAIC PALACE MUSEUM [ amazing], Galata tower [great views], Beyazit
NOV 29, 2021, MONDAY:
Minaturk [fantastic miniatures], Upside down house[such fun]... wanted to go on Bosphorus cruise by state ferries, had to return home as rain started pelting
NOV 30, 2021, TUESDAY:
Took the taxi arranged by hotel for 30 euros at 10 am. When we boarded our flight on Nov 11 for our Turkey vacation, rules did not require any test both onward as well as flight back. We verified from the Turkish airline website as well as by phone call.
on Nov 30, our flight back was at 2.30 pm and we arrived at the airport at 11.30. We had confirmed the previous day by phone that no test was needed.
The queue for checkin was long as all US flights were in the same queue. When our turn came for check in, they asked for the COVID test result on top of our vax cert.
They tagged our checkin bag, even printed our boarding pass, but said we can collect it after showing them the negative test.... no need for joining the line.... just walk up with the paper.. they directed us where to go.
On the lift there was a guy going down to collect his result. he said his result took 1 1/2 hrs as he had truthfully told them his flight time as 4 pm.
When we were at the registration counter at 12.35 and the guy asked our flight time we said 2 pm, as we were scared of delays. We paid 175 liras per person.
Our test was at 12.50, result after 20 min.
We went back to the check in counter, showed the result, got our boarding passes and went for exit control.
The girl at the exit control counter was a drama queen... she kept me standing for 10 minutes, muttering and shaking her head, asking for my evisa etc. We have everything printed and ready, so no issues.
After security when we went to our gate, everybody had already boarded!!
there were 5 points of checking there, again asking for the negative test, vax cert etc, opening our bags and rummaging inside. the rude girl almost ripped off the zip of my bag.
We had had a fabulous time in the country encountering the nicest people, so we brushed off these last minute niggles!
Detailed reports of each day follows...Report of days 1, 2, 3 is here
https://adventuretrav.blogspot.com/2022/01/turkey-trip-report-days-1-2-and-3.html
