Friday, May 6, 2016

How to plan a trip to Florence, Italy & Days 1, 2: Galleria dell'Accademia, Palazzo Medici Ricardi and Bargello museum

FIRENZE


First of all, know it’s called Firenze in Italian and that’s the name you should use when booking tickets etc.

Florence is the showcase of Italian Renaissance, home of all time greats like Michael Angelo and is a treasure house for art lovers.

MAP OF ATTRACTIONS


As usual get a map: here’s a good one



Here's the google map prepared by me, pinning all the attractions we planned to visit; you can zoom in and out and see the details:


MUSEUM PASS


Yes, you need a proper museum pass

Firenze card


One of your options is the Firenze card,
Priority access to museums with no need to make reservations, 72 hours/€ 72

Amici degli Uffizi

Become a member of The Association Amici degli Uffizi till Dec 31

Individual: € 60,00 (one adult)
Family: € 100,00 (two adults and two or more children under 18)

You can buy it online and have it on you when you land in Firenze or buy it at the Uffizi office till 5pm, Mon-Sat. You need your passports for ID.

We had planned to buy the Firenze card at 72 euros from the tourist office opposite to SMN station Firenze, store our bags in the station itself and start our 72 hours right then. In the evening we wanted to collect the bags and go to our apartment—Villa Lucrezia 2km from the station.

However, when I thought in depth, cramming all sights in to 3 days starting Sunday looked difficult. Monday being holiday at several sites made it more complicated.

The option of using Amici degli uffizi card at 50 euros pp became more attractive—it was valid upto December, though it did not cover the Duomo, it did give us the privilege to jump the lines at the Academy, Uffizi and Pitti Palace and gained us entry to Bargello, Cappelle Medici as well.

Since we made the decision late, online option would not work out (no time to receive the mailed card) and we had to buy it in person

WHERE TO STAY:


Of course it’s best to stay in the city centro but there are the usual hassles of high prices, small rooms etc.

Florence is a very compact city. So even if you stay a little away from the center, you can take a bus and come in and walk easily to all the attractions

 We decided to stay in an apartment, Villa Lucrezia, 2 km from the train station.  It’s a former Count’s residence, with antique furniture and colorful modern amenities and it suited us fine




OUR VIDEOS

has the video of our day 1: Palazzo Medici Ricardi and Bargello museum

has the video of Duomo and Campanile,

has the video of Palazzo Vecchio

has the video of Pitti Palace

has the video of Pitti Palace Gardens, Basilica Santa Croce

has the video of our visit to Pisa

has the video of Santa Maria Novella Basilica

TRANSPORT

You can walk everywhere but buses are available if needed

is the ATAF site and it’s pretty easy to figure out bus options in and around Florence.

Now, I'm continuing with the report of our first day in Florence...

May 24, Saturday, 3 PM: Firenze:

We got down from the train. Entered the station building and went straight to one of the counters and bought our transport ticket. I had read from the official ATAF site awhile ago, the carte agile ticket can be loaded with money and used by 4 people on local buses—also a journey costing 1,20 euro separately would cost just one euro by the card.  So we loaded the card with 20euros for our 5 day Florence stay.

(actually there had been an amendment and from Sep 2013, the card can be used only by one person—we did not know that)

We went to the station exit. A taxi was pulling up depositing some passengers at the station. We showed the driver our address but he gestured that we should join the line a little ahead.

There was a straight bus no 17 to the door of our apartment but we did not want to look for it with our bags. We joined the taxi queue, in a few minutes were on our way. Short ride and he put us at the gate of our apartment.

After checking in, we took the bus to centro. Yes, our the carte agile ticket was swiping only once and even the locals could not help us. We did not realize there has been a change in rules and one of us rode ticketless unwittingly!

Saw the Santa Maria Novella church spire and the famed Duomo in the distance.


Rushed to the Uffizi office, showed them our passports and paid up €100 and got the Amici degli Uffizi cards for the both of us.

Walked on and Reached Piazza della Signoria (Signoria square), in front of the Palazzo Vecchio.

This is the Fountain of Neptune in the Piazza della Signoria (Signoria square


 The fountain was commissioned in 1565

This statue of Neptune is a copy made in the nineteenth century, while the original is in the National Museum.

The Neptune figure, whose face resembles that of Cosimo I de' Medici, was meant to be an allusion to the dominion of the Florentines over the sea.

The figure stands on a high pedestal in the middle of an octagonal fountain.
Around the perimeter of the basin, are reclining bronze river gods, laughing satyrs and marble sea-horses emerging from the water.

 The fountain served as a model for future fountain-makers.

Piazza della Signoria is an L-shaped square in front of the Palazzo Vecchio.

It was named after the Palazzo della Signoria, also called Palazzo Vecchio.

It is the focal point of the origin of the Florentine Republic and still is the political hub of the city.

 It is located near Ponte Vecchio and Piazza del Duomo and gateway to Uffizi Gallery

We admired the various statues in Piazza della Signoria,

The bronze sculpture Judith and Holofernes (1460), created by Donatello at the end of his career, can be seen in the Hall of Lilies (Sala dei Gigli), in the Palazzo Vecchio.



This is the copy in the Piazza della Signoria,.

 It depicts the assassination of the Assyrian general Holofernes by Judith

Of course the huge attraction is copy of David at the entrance of the Palazzo Vecchio,



The original by Michelangelo is at the Gallery of the Academy of Fine Arts.


The whole place was milling with crowds.

We admired the façade of the famous Duomo, the baptistery and the bell tower.



The market place has excellent wood craft shops...


The wood puppet Pinocchio (1883), created by the Florentine writer Carlo Collodi is ever present…
 we enjoyed the various pieces on offer.

Then we returned to our apartment.





May 25, Sunday:


Galleria dell'Accademia, Palazzo Medici Ricardi and Museo Nazionale del Bargello


Galleria dell'Accademia 

Knowing that the academy gets terribly crowded, we started our day there, landing there before it opened. There were 2 lines, we joined the longer one as the other one had priority written. As soon as an official came, we enquired and found that we qualify for the priority line as we have the Amici degli Uffizi card. As soon as the academy opened, we entered as part of the priority line!

No pics are allowed. The collection was great, the focus of course being David

Michelangelo’s David

The "David" in the Accademia is the original, brought here in 1873.


Michelangelo’s David is one of the most recognized works of Renaissance sculpture, a symbol of strength and youthful beauty.

It’s size is colossal-- 5.17-metre (17 ft). Work on David started in 1464 but after some initial work on a huge block of marble, it was abandoned. Michelangelo, only 26 years old, convinced the authorities that he deserved the commission to continue it. On 16 August 1501, Michelangelo was given the official contract. He worked on the massive statue for more than two years. The statue weighed 6 tons and It took four days to move the statue the half mile from Michelangelo's workshop into the Piazza della Signoria.

David is depicted before his battle with Goliath. Instead of being shown victorious over a foe much larger than he, David looks tense and ready for combat. His brow is drawn, his neck tense and the veins bulge out of his lowered right hand. The twist of his body effectively conveys to the viewer the feeling that he is in motion, an impression heightened with contrapposto (figure standing with one leg holding its full weight)


 With one leg holding its full weight and the other leg forward, this classic pose causes the figure’s hips and shoulders to rest at opposing angles, giving a slight s-curve to the entire torso. The contrapposto is emphasised by the turn of the head to the left, and by the contrasting positions of the arms.

The figure has an unusually large head and hands (particularly apparent in the right hand). due to the fact that the statue was originally intended to be placed on the cathedral roofline, where the important parts of the sculpture may have been accentuated in order to be visible from below. The statue is unusually slender (front to back) in comparison to its height, which may be a result of the work done on the block before Michelangelo began carving it.

All this is analysis… it’s definitely a WOW moment contemplating David… we were thrilled!

The gallery's small collection of Michelangelo's work includes his four unfinished Prisoners, intended for the tomb of Pope Julius II, and a statue of Saint Matthew, also unfinished.  They are awesome, showing how figures emerge from stone…

When we came out of the Academy, there was a long line on both sides. As usual early birds are rewarded!

Palazzo Medici Ricardi

Our next visit was Palazzo Medici Ricardi.


Here's the famous stone masonry; the rings are horse hitches.


 It was designed for Cosimo de' Medici, head of the Medici banking family, and was built between 1444 and 1484.

It’s well known for its stone masonry and the frescoe cycle of the Cavalcade of the Magi in the palace's small chapel by Benozzo Gozzoli

The loggia is made of monolithic columns with Composite Corinthian capitals. Above the loggia runs a frieze of tondi (circular plaques or medallions) in bas-relief alternating with Medici family heralds worked in different ways.

Sgraffito festoons are etched in the wall. (Sgraffito is a type of decoration executed by covering a surface, as of plaster or enamel, of one color, with a thin coat of a similar material of another color, and then scratching or scoring through the outer coat to show the color beneath.)

There was a contemporary exhibiton and the sculpture looked dynamic!




We marched into the palace and enjoyed the halls of tapestries.





The Galleria Riccardiana (Luca Giordano Hall of Mirrors) is indeed aweinspiring!



In the centre of the ceiling of the Galleria Riccardiana the Apotheosis of the Medici is depicted. On the sides Neptune's Wedding with Amphitrite (left) and the Rape of Proserpina (right) can be seen.


Great experience. No pics allowed in the Magi chapel ... needless to say,  it’s beautiful.



Then we went to Bargello museum

 Museo Nazionale del Bargello

Bargello, also known as the Bargello Palace, Museo Nazionale del Bargello, or Palazzo del Popolo (Palace of the People) is a former barracks and prison, now an art museum




The National Museum is in one of the oldest buildings in Florence that dates back to 1255.
Initially the headquarters of the Capitano del Popolo (Captain of the People) and later of the Podestà, the palace became, in the sixteenth century, the residence of the Bargello that is of the head of the police (from which the palace takes its name) and was used as prison during the whole 18th century.


Its walls witnessed important episodes of civic history. It was the meeting place of the Council of the Hundred in which Dante took part. It witnessed sieges, fires, executions, the most famous being that of Baroncelli, involved in the Pazzi plot against the Medici, which Leonardo also witnessed.


The building's use as National Museum began in the mid-19th century. Today it displays sculpture, mainly from the grand ducal collections, and "minor" Gothic decorative arts.






We loved the exhibits.

Uffizi

We visited Uffizi and enjoyed the lovely art especially the Botticellis. Our camera battery had died and the spare was in the bag checked in at the counter. We wound up with no pics. We optimistically planned another visit next day...

http://adventuretrav.blogspot.com/2016/05/florence-trip-report-day-3-duomo.html
covers Duomo and Campanile, Baptistry and Palazzo Vecchio




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