FLOATING CITY VENICE
Its stone palaces seemingly rise out of the water.
There are no cars or roadways, just canals and boats. TheGrand
Canal snakes through the city, which is filled with innumerable
narrow, mazelike alleys and small squares.
There are no cars or roadways, just canals and boats. The
City of Venice consists of
118 small islands in the Adriatic sea , connected
by canals and bridges.
It is heavily touristed (there are 56000 residents and 20
million tourists per year), there are huge cruise shops docked. So you need to
plan your vacation well ahead.
WHEN TO GO?
Spring and fall are
probably best, a compromise between temperature (5-15°C in March) and the
tourist load.
Beware of the weather during the winter months: it can be
quite cold, windy, and damp. Fog is an additional hazard
Aqua alta (high
water) has become a fact of life in Venice .
The lagoon water level occasionally rises above the level of the squares and
streets, flooding them. This can happen several times a year, at irregular
intervals, usually in the colder months. The tide rises and falls in
six-hour cycles.
You can get an aqua alta map at the tourist
offices either at the railway station or St Marks. This will show you the
higher, dry routes and the ones with walkways set up during the various flood
alerts. There is a tide measuring station at the Rialto vaporetto piers, and a notice board at
the base of the Campanile in the Piazza San Marco that shows a live tide
reading and predictions for the next few days.
MUST-DO’S
The canals and romantic gondolas are the main draw: Outdoor
sights, piazzas, bridges, canals are unique.
The other attractions
are the beautiful architecture, art collections and historical landmarks.
Doge's Palace (Palazzo Ducale), (San
Marco Square ), Bell
tower of St. Mark San Marco Square ),
Clock tower (Torre dell'Orologio), (San
Marco Square ), Scuola grande di San Rocco (guild
house, masterpiece of Tintoretto).
Out of churches, Saint Mark's Basilica (Basilica di San
Marco) is the best. Other noteworthy churches are the following.
San Giacomo di Rialto, the oldest church in Venice built around 421(
note: 15th century clock above the entrance, the red pillars and beautiful gold
accents around the church).
San
Giovanni e Paolo (San Zanipolo in Venetian dialect). A fine,
huge Dominican church with the tombs of many Doges. It shares its piazza with
the fine Renaissance facade of the Scuola San Marco and an equestrian statue of
the mercenary (condottiere) captain Colleone. Look out for the testicles
(coglioni in Italian - a lousy pun) on
his coat of arms!
Santa Maria
Gloriosa dei Frari. The big friary church, with fine monuments and paintings,
'Assunta' by Titian.
Santa Maria dei Miracoli. A perfect jewel box church, simple
in form but ornamented with fine exterior marble facings.
San Simeone Piccolo. The last church built in Venice . It is located
across from the Grand Canal in front of Santa
Lucia Train station. Its dome is entirely covered with lead sheet.
Basilica of
The islands of Murano and Burano are to be savored...
Here’s the google map I prepared:
I’m embedding it
here:
You can zoom in and out and see all the details.
Our videos
video covers Venice :
San Marco, Doge's Palace, Campanile
video covers Rialto
bridge, Murano
video
covers Murano, Burano
PORT OF ENTRY
50,000 tourists visit
Venice on a
daily basis.
Closest airport is Marco
Polo Airport on
the mainland near Mestre (technically part of the city of Venice ). There is a city bus and a shuttle
bus from Marco Polo to Piazzale Roma, ACTV bus #5 on your left and the ATVO bus
on your right; both will take you to Piazzale Roma (the only part of the city
of Venice that
you will be able to reach with ground transportation).
Trains from the mainland run through Mestre to
the Venezia Santa Lucia train station on the west side of Venice . So if you are
coming in from Rome ,
Florence etc, train is convenient
Travel cards are extremely useful since the basic fare
for one vaporetto journey is typically €7.00
WHERE TO STAY?
Hotels are expensive. You need to contact Bed and Breakfasts
and guesthouses many months ahead. Check out how far it is from a
vaporetti stop before commiting… dragging your suitcase through bridges and
cobblestones is not easy.
We made the decision to stay in Mestre, not a bad call in
itself as the commute is just 15 minutes. We were late in looking for
accommodation; for the May vacation, we searched in October of the previous
year and could not get desirable ones with kitchen in Venice
itself. Any hotel just opposite the train station in Mestre would have been OK
but we made the mistake of choosing Villa Moro Lin, a classy residence a little
in the interior. There is a direct bus going to Venice with a stop right near this place. Our
problem was that we had to wait around for 2 hours for the owner to turn up and
then he bumped us to a hotel still further interior for the day! I’m giving a
detailed account of our travails in our ensuing trip report … the short version
for right now is DON’T STAY IN VILLA MORO LIN, Mestre… it’ll spoil your
holiday!
WEBSITES FOR REFERENCE
http://www.veneziaunica.it/en/e-commerce/services
is the official tourism site
is the official transport siteFUN FACTS
Story of Venice begins in the 5th century A.D. After the
fall of the Western Roman Empire, barbarians from the north were raiding Rome ’s former
territories. The Venetians on the mainland escaped to the nearby marshes, and
found refuge on the sandy islands of Torcello, Iesolo and Malamocco. To build
on a solid foundation, they drove wooden stakes into the sandy ground and constructed
wooden platforms on top of the stakes. Buildings were constructed on these
platforms.
To get an estimate of the scale of construction involved…When
the Santa Maria Della Salute church was built, 1,106,657 wooden stakes, each
measuring 4 m, were driven underwater. This process took two years and two
months to be completed. On top of that, the wood had to be obtained from the
forests of Slovenia , Croatia and Montenegro ,
and transported to Venice
via water.
The secret to the longevity of Venice ’s wooden foundation is the fact that
they are submerged underwater. The decay
of wood is caused by microorganisms, such as fungi and bacteria. As the wooden
support in Venice is submerged underwater, they are not exposed to oxygen,
one of the elements needed by microorganisms to survive. In addition, the
constant flow of salt water around and
through the wood petrifies the wood over time, turning the wood into a hardened
stone-like structure.
As a city surrounded by water, Venice
was secure from enemy invasions and became a great maritime power in the Mediterranean . Nevertheless, Venice
started to decline in the 15th century, and was eventually captured by
Napoleon in 1797 when he invaded Italy .
As of today, the lagoon that has protected Venice from foreign invaders is the biggest
threat to its survival. To the local Venetians, the flooding of the city seems
to be a normal phenomenon, as the water level rises about a dozen times a year.
These floodings (aqua alta, high water), are caused by unusually high
tides due to strong winds, storm surges, and severe inland rains. However, this
is happening more frequently in recent years due to the rising sea level caused
by climate change. A number of solutions have been proposed to rescue Venice from sinking. One
of them is the Mo.S.E. ( Modulo Sperimentale Elettromeccanico , or
Experimental Electromechanical Module) Project. This involves the construction
of 79 mobile floodgates which will separate the lagoon from the Adriatic when the tide exceeds one meter above the usual
high-water mark. The city will probably eventually sink, just like the fabled
city of Atlantis .
STRIKES (scioperi)
It’s wise to consult this website:
The Strike Commissions Website (in Italian) http://www.cgsse.it/web/guest;jsessionid=0-o5PpHYAlppYM7+QG5FRg__
To find out about forthcoming strikes click on calendario
scioperi (strike schedule) and then on elenco scioperi for a
full list of strikes in Italy .
May 29, 2014, Thursday
We had chosen to stay at an apartment in Venice Mestre—Villa Moro Lin--a former noble man’s estate. We had booked our 3 nights way early in Oct for €390 for 3 nights! We arrived at Venezia Mestre station from Florence around 11am, took a cab and reached Villa Morrolin. We stood at the Morolin gate at 12 noon, ringing the bell for some 5 minutes… no one responded.
2 gardeners were working in the distance and we gestured, waved, yelled… at last got their attention above the noise of their machines. One of them came up and opened the gate, told us in Italian to go to the ‘bianco’ building to the left… we walked to the white building… it was open and the radio was blaring but no one in sight. It had the trappings of an office but the other side was piled with garden furniture cushions and other paraphernalia, all in untidy disarray. To match, the garden looked nothing like the pictures, it was all bare with the swimming pool just a rubber float with water (I have pics of everything)… we waited for some 5 minutes, then went in search of the gardeners… asked them for a number to phone… they did not know …but confirmed we were waiting at the right place
2 girls entered the place… they turned out to be housekeeping staff… no help for us
After another 10 minutes, a big black sports utility vehicle came in, a man got out and came in, said hi and again went off to his car, started unloading the stuff… ikea bags with some housekeeping material… and giving instructions to the girls… turned out he is the owner.
He said “There is a problem… your apartment won’t be ready for you today… the current people had to go to hospital and they begged me to continue in the same room. So I’ve put you in a nice hotel—you’ll get a breakfast there and I’ll pick you up when you are ready in the morning!”
I said, “We are particular about our own kitchen, we are vegetarians and fussy about making our own food. We don’t want to be in a hotel… and why were we kept waiting at the gate?”
“There is some one at our reception from 8.30” he said, shrugged and started lifting our bags and putting them in his car.
We had no option but to get in. He drove us further in to Mestre, to hotel Antico Moro.
(This hotel is just €80 per night, we had booked at €130/night for the other one)
The owner there was waiting… obviously this was not the 1st time this arrangement between them was working… when I read the TA reviews, I see another person complaining about getting bumped… surprising how I missed it when I finalized this choice
Moro Lin guy said “Call me in the morning when you are ready”.
I said “Please come at 7 am”
He looked surprised, “That early?”
I said “We’ve come to spend time in Venice and we’d like to go there as early as possible. A transport strike has been announced, so we want to leave early when buses are plying”
Antico Moro owner said “Breakfast won’t be ready before 7.30”
I said “We don’t want your breakfast”
Antico Moro room was small, dingy… in spite of repeated requests, they did not switch on the AC that afternoon when we tried to unpack, have our lunch and be on our way… obviously saving every penny they can
We bought a 3 day vaporetto pass for € 36 pp from Antico Moro owner. It covers all transport and was worth its weight in gold … thankfully the bus to Venice came very near the hotel.
Took a bus from Mestre and reached Piazzale Roma in Venice .
We validated the pass and got on to this pier waiting for the vaporetto to arrive. By vaporetto no. 1 it takes about 40 minutes, no. 52 (direct), about 20 minutes, and no. 82 (direct), about 30 minutes.
Vaporettos run at intervals of every 10-12 minutes.
The pass has to be validated before every use, otherwise there are stiff fines of €150.
We validated the pass and got on to this pier waiting for the vaporetto to arrive. By vaporetto no. 1 it takes about 40 minutes, no. 52 (direct), about 20 minutes, and no. 82 (direct), about 30 minutes.
Vaporettos run at intervals of every 10-12 minutes.
Walking will take approximately 30-45 minutes, provided you don’t get lost!
The pass has to be validated before every use, otherwise there are stiff fines of €150.
Got down at the San Marco pier...signboard behind...The pier is S. Zaccaria (just up the waterfront promenade from the Piazza San Marco and the Doge's Palace)
Piazza San Marco (
We entered the Basilica as time for its closing was near.
Basilica di San Marco (Saint Mark's Basilica)
Mosaic of Last Judgment is over the main portal.
It lies at the eastern end of the Piazza San Marco, adjacent and connected to the Doge's Palace. In 829 the body of St. Mark was transported from
All relics were welcomed in those days and those of St. Mark particularly so in Venice since it was this saint who had evangelised the people of the Veneto, becoming their patron saint and emblem in the form of a winged lion armed with a sword, and with a book with the words Pax Tibi Marce Evangelista Meus (Peace to You Oh Mark My Evangelist).
Originally it was the chapel of the Doge, and has been the city's cathedral since 1807.
It is nicknamed Chiesa d'Oro (Church of gold) for its opulent design, gold ground mosaics, and its status as a symbol of Venetian wealth and power.
Upper levels of the interior are completely covered with bright mosaics covering an area of about 8000 sq m.
Upper levels of the interior are completely covered with bright mosaics covering an area of about 8000 sq m.
The great majority use the traditional background of gold glass tesserae, creating the shimmering overall effect. They represent stories from the Bible (Old and New Testaments), allegorical figures, events in the lives of Christ, the Virgin Mary, Saint Mark and other saints.
An official was checking everyone for proper dress code before allowing entry... no shoulders, knees on display...
Main entry is free, we bought a ticket for 3 euros to view the pala d’ora.
Pala d’Oro (the altar retable) is behind the high altar. It is an altar piece with about 250 enamels of different sizes and epochs (10th – 12th century) on sheet gold. The gilded silver Gothic frame was made in Venice in the mid 14th century.
Numerous pearls and precious stones are set in the enamels
In the center of the precious piece the majestic figure of Christ blessing is dominant, surrounded by the Evangelists holding open the book in which the words of holy scripture are replaced by gems, thus highlighting the preciousness of the word. Beneath Christ, Virgin Mary praying and, at her sides, the doge Ordelaffo Falier and empress Irene.
Pala derives from the Latin palla, cloth, sometimes decorated with images of saints and used to cover the altar or embellish its background during the church service. These cloths were then replaced by gold or silver hence the name Pala d’Oro (gold)
We came out when the church closed for the day.
The Horses of Saint Mark were installed on the balcony above the portal of the basilica in 1254. They date to Classical Antiquity, they once adorned the Arch of Trajan.
The horses were long displayed at the Hippodrome of Constantinople, and in 1204 the Doge sent them back toVenice as part of the loot sacked from Constantinople in the Fourth Crusade.
They were taken toParis by Napoleon in 1797 but returned to Venice in 1815. Since 1970's the originals have been kept in St Mark’s Museum inside the basilica and the horses now on the facade of the cathedral are bronze replicas.
The horses were long displayed at the Hippodrome of Constantinople, and in 1204 the Doge sent them back to
They were taken to
Piazza San Marco is the political and religious center
Here is Doge's palace adjoining the basilica. We visited it the next day.
The Clock Tower (Torre dell'Orologio), completed in 1499, above a high archway where the street known as the Merceria (a main thoroughfare of the city) leads through shopping streets to the Rialto, the commercial and financial center
It comprises a tower, which contains the clock, and lower buildings on each side.
Both the tower and the clock date from the last decade of the 15th century, though the mechanism of the clock has subsequently been much altered.
It was placed where the clock would be visible from the waters of the lagoon and give notice to everyone of the wealth and glory ofVenice .
The lower two floors of the tower make a monumental archway into the main street of the city, the Merceria.
Both the tower and the clock date from the last decade of the 15th century, though the mechanism of the clock has subsequently been much altered.
It was placed where the clock would be visible from the waters of the lagoon and give notice to everyone of the wealth and glory of
The lower two floors of the tower make a monumental archway into the main street of the city, the Merceria.
We wandered around enjoying the shops and live music in the historic square.
St Mark's Campanile (Campanile di San Marco) is the bell
The tower is 98.6 metres (323 ft) tall, and stands alone in a corner of St Mark's Square , near the front of the basilica. The initial 9th-century construction was used as a watch tower or lighthouse for the dock, which is now the Piazzetta.
It is a fluted brick square shaft, 12 metres (39 ft) wide on each side and 50 metres (160 ft) tall, above which is a loggia surrounding the belfry, housing five bells.
The belfry is topped by a cube, alternate faces of which show the Lion of St. Mark and the female representation of Venice (la Giustizia: Justice).
The tower is capped by a pyramidal spire, at the top of which sits a golden weathervane in the form of the archangel Gabriel.
The campanile reached its present form in 1514. The current tower was reconstructed in its present form in 1912 after the collapse of 1902.
The tower is capped by a pyramidal spire, at the top of which sits a golden weathervane in the form of the archangel Gabriel.
The campanile reached its present form in 1514. The current tower was reconstructed in its present form in 1912 after the collapse of 1902.
In July 1902, the north wall of the tower began to show signs of a dangerous crack. Finally, on July 14, around 9:45 am, the campanile collapsed completely, also demolishing the logetta.
Remarkably, no one was killed, except for the caretaker's cat. Because of the campanile's position, the resulting damage was relatively limited.
The pietradel bando, a large porphyry column from which laws used to be read, protected the basilica itself.
It was decided to rebuild the tower exactly as it was, with some internal reinforcement to prevent future collapse.
The new campanile was inaugurated on April 25, 1912, on the occasion of Saint Mark's feast day, exactly 1000 years after the foundations of the original building had been laid.
Remarkably, no one was killed, except for the caretaker's cat. Because of the campanile's position, the resulting damage was relatively limited.
The pietra
It was decided to rebuild the tower exactly as it was, with some internal reinforcement to prevent future collapse.
The new campanile was inaugurated on April 25, 1912, on the occasion of Saint Mark's feast day, exactly 1000 years after the foundations of the original building had been laid.
It’s an awesome structure, we went up the next day for great views over the lagoon.
The Piazzetta lies between the Doge's Palace on the east and Jacopo Sansovino's Biblioteca
There are two large granite columns carrying symbols of the two patron saints of
The first is Saint Theodore, who was the patron of the city before St Mark, holding a spear and with a crocodile to represent the dragon which he was said to have slain. This is made up of parts of antique statues and is a copy (the original is kept in the
The second (eastern) column has a winged lion — the Lion of Venice — which is the symbol of St Mark.
This has a long history, probably starting as a winged lion-griffin on a monument to the god Sandon at
The columns are now thought to have been erected about 1268 when the water was closer and they would have been on the edge of the lagoon, framing the entry to the city from the sea.
Gambling was permitted in the space between the columns and this right was said to have been granted as a reward to the man who first raised the columns.
Public executions also took place between the columns. In all likelihood more homosexuals died between the "Columns of Justice" than anywhere else in
Homosexuals were burned alive between the columns until 1446.
All this history makes the place more interesting…
We boarded the vaporetto to Piazzale Roma...
Going back to hotel should ordinarily have been a simple task, but with our getting bumped, it became slightly complicated. In our annoyance, we had not got the address of the hotel. We remembered seeing via castellana in the bus stop where we boarded but all bus stops on that long street had the same name and on our way back in the bus at night, we were buzzing the stop button of the bus in every stop. We got down a stop early and managed to find our way to the hotel.
Thankfully the AC was on for the night! We had not needed one in Rome or Florence!
I knew there will be more trouble in the morning… though I’m eternally positive!! We slept off…
video coversVenice : San Marco, Doge's Palace, Campanile
http://adventuretrav.blogspot.com/2016/05/venice-trip-report-day-2-doges-palace.html
covers our day 2 in Venice: Doge's palace, bridge of sighs, St Mark's bell tower ...and of course our apartment issues!
video covers
http://adventuretrav.blogspot.com/2016/05/venice-trip-report-day-2-doges-palace.html
covers our day 2 in Venice: Doge's palace, bridge of sighs, St Mark's bell tower ...and of course our apartment issues!
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