Friday, May 6, 2016

Florence Trip Report, Day 3: Duomo, Campanile, Baptistry, Palazzo Vecchio

May 26, Monday:


CATHEDRAL, BELL TOWER, BAPTISTRY, PALAZZO VECCHIO

Video covers Duomo and Campanile,

Video covers Palazzo Vecchio

 Duomo climb

Since many museums are closed on Monday and the Duomo is open, we chose to do the Duomo climb as well as the bell tower climb first thing in the morning on Monday.


The Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore ("Basilica of Saint Mary of the Flower") is the main church of Florence.

Il Duomo di Firenze, as it is ordinarily called, was begun in 1296 in the Gothic style by Arnolfo di Cambio. It took 140 years to be completed in 1436 with the dome engineered by Filippo Brunelleschi

The exterior is covered in a decorative mix of pink, white and green marble.

Statues of Arnolfo di Cambio and Brunelleschi can be found outside to the right of the cathedral, both admiring their work for the rest of eternity. 

The dimensions of the building are enormous: length 153 metres (502 ft), width 38 metres (124 ft), width at the crossing 90 metres (295 ft). The height of the arches in the aisles is 23 metres (75 ft). The height of the dome is 114.5 m

On top of the façade is a series of niches with the twelve Apostles with the Madonna with Child in the middle.  Between the rose window and the tympanum, there is a gallery with busts of great Florentine artists.
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The dome is egg-shaped and was made without scaffolding. The raising of this dome, the largest in the world in its time, was no easy architectural feat. 

Brunelleschi looked to the great dome of the Pantheon in Rome for solutions. The dome of the Pantheon is a single shell of concrete, the formula for which had long since been forgotten. Soil filled with silver coins had held the Pantheon dome aloft while its concrete set. This could not be the solution in the case of a dome this size and would put the church out of use.

For the height and breadth of the dome, starting 52 metres (171 ft) above the floor and spanning 44 meters (144 ft), there was not enough timber in Tuscany to build the scaffolding and forms. 

Brunelleschi employed a double shell, made of sandstone and marble. He had to build the dome out of brick, due to its light weight compared to stone and being easier to form, and with nothing under it during construction. To illustrate his proposed structural plan, he constructed a wooden and brick model with the help of Donatello and Nanni di Banco, a model which is still displayed in the Museo dell'Opera del Duomo. The model served as a guide for the craftsmen, but was intentionally incomplete, so as to ensure Brunelleschi's control over the construction.

Brunelleschi, like all cathedral builders, had to rely on intuition and whatever he could learn from the large scale models he built. To lift 37,000 tons of material, including over 4 million bricks, he invented hoisting machines hoisting large stones. These specially designed machines and his structural innovations were Brunelleschi's chief contribution to architecture!

Read up on the details and you’ll appreciate the beauty more!

We reached the Duomo by 8 am and were the first to climb the 465 steps...



Inner view of the dome as we climb is awesome…


 Giorgio Vasari's frescoes of the Last Judgment (1572-9) can be seen up close; they were designed by Vasari but painted mostly by his less-talented student Frederico Zuccari by 1579.

Of course the views are incredible from the top.




Giotto's Campanile--bell tower

Then we decided to climb the bell tower also as we wanted to beat the crowds.

Standing adjacent to the Basilica and the Baptistry, the bell tower is by Giotto, it has rich sculptural decorations and polychrome marble… geometric patterns of white marble from Carrara, green marble from Prato and red marble from Siena.

Stands on a square plan with a side of 14.45 m (47.41 ft). It attains a height of 84.7 m (277.9 ft)


Entrance to campanile (bell tower) is just adjacent to the basilica. We did not even stop to rest for a few minutes. 



We started our climb up the 405 steps here...

















In Giotto's campanile there are seven bells:




Campanone ("biggest bell"): 1705, diameter 2 m, height 2.10 m, c. 5385 kg, note A2, cast by Antonio Petri of Florence

La Misericordia ("mercy bell"): 1830, diameter 1.52 m, almost 2100 kg, note C3, cast by Carlo Moreni

Apostolica: 1957, diameter 1.25 m, 1200 kg, Note D3, cast by P. Barigozzi

Annunziata: 1956, diameter 1.15 m, 856.5 kg, Note E3, cast by P. Barigozzi

Mater Dei ("God's Mother bell"), 1956, diameter 95 cm, 481.3 kg, note G3, cast by P. Barigozzi

L'Assunta, 1956, diameter 85 cm, 339.6 kg, Note A3, cast by P. Barigozzi

L'Immacolata, 1956, diameter 75 cm, 237.8 kg, Note B3, cast by P. Barigozzi

It was great looking at the views and the bells!

After our climb, we saw a long line waiting and we were happy we had been early!



Duomo di Firenze, The Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore 

(Basilica of Saint Mary of the Flower)

A small line was forming in front of the cathedral. We joined it and entered the cathedral. The interior, by contrast, is pretty stark and plain.



The mosaic pavements are certainly its main attraction within.



 The biggest artwork within the cathedral is Giorgio Vasari's frescoes of the Last Judgment (1572-9): we had seen it up close during our climb and its color palette was impressive from down below too


The clock above the entrance on the inside of the church. was designed in 1443  in accordance with the ora italica, where the 24th hour of the day ended at sunset... and it still works!


We visited the museum next, sadly the gates of paradise are not open for viewing!


Then of course our target was the Baptistry

Battistero di San Giovanni: 

Florence Baptistery also known as the Baptistery of Saint John is in Piazza del Duomo, right in front of the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore.

The Baptistery, dedicated to Florence's patron saint, has an octagonal plan and an octagonal lantern with a cupola. Outside it is again clad in geometrically patterned colored marble, white Carrara marble and green Prato marble that is typical of Florentine Romanesque architecture.

It was built over the ruins of a Roman temple dedicated to Mars dating back to the 4th-5th century A.D. It was first described in 897 as a minor basilica. In 1128, it was consecrated as the Baptistery of Florence and is the oldest religious monument in Florence. Up until the end of the 19th century, all Catholics in Florence were baptized within its doors. Today, young children can still be baptized here on the first Sunday of the month, but as they only have space and time for 4, you have to make the request with ample time.

On three of the four sides there are three large doors famous for their decorations. The most important door has always been considered the eastern doors, the ones that lead to the Duomo. All of the doors have been originally located on the Eastern side before being moved.

The oldest pair of doors are the bronze doors presently found on the South side of the baptistery. Made by Andrea Pisano around 1330, the doors consist of 28 quatrefoil panels depicting scenes from St. John's life. They are the only remaining original doors still in situ at the Baptistery, and are in need of restoration. You can still see traces of gold on some of the panels, while the bright spots are oxidized bronze from the patina of millions of hands that have touched sections.

Today's Northern Doors are by Lorenzo Ghiberti (1403-1424) and depict Stories of the Life and Passion of Christ taken from the New Testament. The original doors are currently under restoration (since 2014), and copies are being made of each panel as they are restored. For this reason, you'll see the doors are not "complete" at the moment as they are missing panels. Once restoration is complete, the original doors will be inside the Opera del Duomo museum

East doors, or Gates of Paradise, by Lorenzo Ghiberti

The Gates of Paradise received their name by Michelangelo who is believed to have exclaimed: "They are so beautiful that they would be perfect for the gates of paradise".



The doors consist of 10 rectangular panels, displayed in two lines. They depict scenes of the Old Testament from left to right and from top to bottom.


In each panel, Ghiberti described more than one scene so that there are over fifty scenes depicted. For example, In "The Story of Joseph" is portrayed the narrative scheme of Joseph Cast by His Brethren into the Well, Joseph Sold to the Merchants, The merchants delivering Joseph to the pharaoh, Joseph Interpreting the Pharaoh's dream, The Pharaoh Paying him Honor, Jacob Sends His Sons to Egypt and Joseph Recognizes His Brothers and Returns Home.

All around the frame of the doors Ghiberti added 24 small bronze busts of famous Florentines. The two central busts are portraits of the artist and of his father, Bartolomeo Ghiberti

The panels are included in a richly decorated gilt framework of foliage and fruit, many statuettes of prophets and 24 busts.



The figures are distributed in very low relief in a perspective space (a technique invented by Donatello and called rilievo schiacciato, which literally means "flattened relief".) Ghiberti uses different sculptural techniques, from incised lines to almost free-standing figure sculpture, within the panels, further accentuating the sense of space


In 1425 Ghiberti got a second commission, this time for the east doors of the baptistry, on which he and his workshop toiled for 27 years.

Ghiberti employed the recently discovered principles of perspective to give depth to his compositions.

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The doors are awesome and we LOVED them.

Then we went on to Palazzo Vecchio

Palazzo Vecchio (Old Palace)

The Palazzo Vecchio ("Old Palace") is the town hall of the city.

This massive, Romanesque, crenellated fortress-palace was originally called the Palazzo della Signoria, (the Signoria is the ruling body of the Republic of Florence).

 It has great art and was a pleasure to stroll through.






Great marquetry work on these ebony chests...




This is the Salone dei Cinquecento

Salone dei Cinquecento (Hall of 500)



In the niches are sculptures by Bandinelli: in the center the statue of the seated "Leo X", and on the right a statue of "Charles V crowned by Clement VII".

The six statues along the walls represent the "Labors of Hercules".

In the central niche at the south of the Hall is Michelangelo's famous marble group the "The Genius of Victory" (1533–1534), originally intended for the tomb of Julius II.

The statue was placed in this hall by Vasari, but in 1868 was removed to the Bargello Museum, only to return in 1921

On the north side of the hall, illuminated by enormous windows, is the raised stage called the Udienza, built for Cosimo I to receive citizens and ambassadors. Above are frescoes of historical events; among these, that of Boniface VIII receiving the ambassadors of foreign States and, seeing that were all Florentines, saying: "You Florentines are the quintessence."



Hall of the Lilies

The carved ceiling of the Hall of the Lilies, as this room is usually called, decorated with fleur-de-lys, and the Statue of St. John the Baptist and Putti


The golden fleur-de-lys decorations on blue background on the ceiling and three walls refer to the (short-lived) good relations between Florence and the French Crown.


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Hall of Geographical Maps

Hall of Geographical Maps or Wardrobe is where the Medici Grand Dukes kept their precious belongings. The cabinets and carved ceiling are by Dionigi Nigetti.



The doors of the cabinets were decorated with 53 remarkable maps of scientific interest, oil paintings by the Dominican monk Fra Ignazio Danti (1563–1575), brother of the sculptor Vincenzo Danti, and Stefano Buonsignori (1575–1584).



They are of great historical interest and give a good idea of the geographical knowledge in the 16th century. Danti followed the Ptolemaic system, while already using the new cartographical system of Gerardus Mercator

This globe has been ruined by bad restoration attempts...


 Palazzo Vecchio has a tower to climb, just a paltry 416 steps again!






Yes, you guessed right, we climbed this tower too… awesome views!






Now we had been on our feet all day and had climbed 3 huge towers, all 400 plus steps! My feet were killing me. We sat at the piazza and I had to flex and massage my feet for some 10 minutes before they became functional again!

The previous day we had been to Uffizi. We had checked in our bag with extra camera batteries and just took the camera. The battery died and ipod had discharged too. So we ended up with no pics for Uffizi. Of course we had the Uffizi card which meant unlimited visits, so we thought we’ll visit again and take pics. This was the time available but my feet did not cooperate. Told son to run up and take the pics but he decided to stay with me. We thought we’ll visit Uffizi again the next day… but no… we could not find the time. So no pics of the lovely Uffizi gallery! I guess we should be thankful we got to enjoy the art at least…

We wound up for the day satisfied we had managed Monday pretty well though many museums are closed on that day!  

Next post covering Palazzo Pitti and Basilica de Santa Croce is here:
http://adventuretrav.blogspot.com/2016/05/florence-trip-report-day-4-palazzo.html

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