DAY 3, April 11, 2012:
Rio's Historical Center (Centro Histórico):
Though Rio is justifiably
famous for its lovely beaches, it has several architectural gems to
its credit. Catholicism arrived in Brazil along with colonists from
Portugal in the early 16th Century. We can see the exuberance of the
Brazilian Baroque, with gilded altars, painted ceilings and giant silver chandeliers in the churches. Rio has a very good
collection of old beautiful churches and we decided to cover those in
centro. Centro is the heart of Rio's commercial center. We managed to
see some 18 gems that day
We had been taking the bus the previous 2 days as the circular buses had been very convenient. For going to the centro, metro is more convenient. We took the metro from the 1st station General Osorio... 2 minute walk from our hotel.
Got down at station
Uruguania and there is Nossa Senhora da Candelária (Our Lady of Candelária) inviting
us in...
Igreja da Candelária (The Candelária Church):
In the beginning of the
17th century a ship called Candelária almost sank during a storm on
the sea. Upon arriving in Rio de Janeiro, a group of Spaniards
sponsored the building of a small chapel, fulfilling the oath they
made during the storm. This small chapel, dedicated to Our Lady of
Candelária, was built around 1609.
In 1811 King John VI of
Portugal was in Rio with the whole Portuguese court and inaugurated
the rebuilt chapel built in Baroque style with Neoclassical elements.
The dome and its eight statues were made in white Lioz stone, in
Lisbon, and brought to Brazil by ship. When finished, the dome of the
Candelária was the tallest structure in the city.
NOTE chandelier in silver
We were dressed in long
pants, shirts as there is a dress code for churches in Brazil...We
found a few did enter in skimpy clothes as well. There were no
tourists, only locals coming in for prayer
The Jacaranda (Brazilian
rosewood) woodwork and Brazilian antique floor tiles are awesome...
as also the stained glass with pics of saints.
We went on to the famed monastery of Saint Benedict next.
Mosteiro de São Bento (Monastery of Saint Benedict):
Located on historic Rua
Dom Gerardo in Centro, the Mosteiro de São Bento (Monastery of
Saint Benedict) is one of Rio’s first monasteries, almost as
old as the city itself. Founded in 1590 by two monks from Bahia,
construction was completed in 1671.
Monastery is on the top floor, we took an elevator ...the entrance is on a small street with old commercial buildings... this is the story of entire Rio... heritage churches right next door to modern skyscrapers or old commercial buildings..
The unimposing facade hides the magnificent gold altars.
The unimposing facade hides the magnificent gold altars.
.The interior of the chapel is an impressive monument to the talho dourado (gilded) style of architecture imported by the Portuguese during the 17th century, wrought with Portuguese tile and ornate wood carvings covered in gold...
http://www.osb.org.br/mosteiro/
has good pics... a few here...
Sunlight illuminates the sanctuary through a skylight, and monks fill the golden halls with Gregorian chants during morning and evening services, which are open to the public
Sao Bento statue in the
serene garden...
Sao Bento (Saint
Benedict-480s) was a Roman nobleman who renounced his wealth and
became a monk. The legend goes that fellow monks first tried to
poison his drink. He prayed a blessing over the cup and the cup
shattered. Then they tried to kill him with poisoned bread. When he
prayed a blessing over the bread, a raven swept in and took the loaf
away. Benedict returned to his cave at Subiaco. His miracles became
frequent, and many people, attracted by his sanctity and character,
came to Subiaco to be under his guidance. He founded 12 monasteries
in the vicinity of Subiaco, and, eventually, founded the great
Benedictine monastery.
This is the Candelaria church... we retraced our way here from Sao Bento monastery before going on to the other churches. In 1992, this square was the place of a massacre where police brutally killed street children
This is CCBB: Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil
Built between 1880 and 1906 -- belonged to the Commercial Association of Rio de Janeiro, and was originally used as a Commerce Square. In 1923 it was transferred to Banco do Brasil to pay a loan.
After 27 years as a branch of the bank, in 1989 it opened doors with the new function of cultural center. Has a cafe, shops, two theaters, a movie theater, video room, and displays with eight exhibition halls. The grandeur of the building is striking once we enter and see the huge glass dome, floor and walls covered in marble, and pillars carved in Portuguese stone.
CCBB: Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil:
This is CCBB: Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil
Built between 1880 and 1906 -- belonged to the Commercial Association of Rio de Janeiro, and was originally used as a Commerce Square. In 1923 it was transferred to Banco do Brasil to pay a loan.
After 27 years as a branch of the bank, in 1989 it opened doors with the new function of cultural center. Has a cafe, shops, two theaters, a movie theater, video room, and displays with eight exhibition halls. The grandeur of the building is striking once we enter and see the huge glass dome, floor and walls covered in marble, and pillars carved in Portuguese stone.
Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Monte do
Carmo:
Igreja de Nossa Senhora
do Monte do Carmo da antiga Sé (Portuguese full name: literally
Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel of the Ancient See)The Old
Cathedral of Rio de Janeiro dedicated to Our Lady of Mount Carmel,
is an old Carmelite church which served as cathedral (Sé) of Rio de
Janeiro from around 1808 until 1976.
During the 19th century, it was also used successively as Royal and Imperial Chapel by the Portuguese royal family and the Brazilian imperial family, respectively.
It is located in the Praça XV (Pracas are plazas/squares), in downtown Rio. It is one of the most important historical buildings in the city. Igreja de nossa senhora do carmo da antiga se used to be connected to the Carmelite Convent. construction:1716 to 1816.
When the Royal Portuguese Family arrived in Brazil in 1808 and settled in the Paço Imperial, the Convent was turned into an annex, and became the home of Queen Maria I.
The Carmelite Church was converted into the Royal Chapel.
This is where Dom Pedro I married Princess Leopoldina of Habsburg. It became the Imperial Chapel with Brazil's independence in 1822. Here the two Brazilian Emperors were crowned: Dom Pedro I and his son, Dom Pedro II . With the advent of the Republic in 1889, the church was renamed Metropolitan Cathedral. It held until the new Cathedral was built, in 1976. The church holds the mortal remains of Pedro Alvares Cabral, the discoverer of Brazil (the tombstone is on the aisle, near the sacristy).
During the 19th century, it was also used successively as Royal and Imperial Chapel by the Portuguese royal family and the Brazilian imperial family, respectively.
It is located in the Praça XV (Pracas are plazas/squares), in downtown Rio. It is one of the most important historical buildings in the city. Igreja de nossa senhora do carmo da antiga se used to be connected to the Carmelite Convent. construction:1716 to 1816.
When the Royal Portuguese Family arrived in Brazil in 1808 and settled in the Paço Imperial, the Convent was turned into an annex, and became the home of Queen Maria I.
The Carmelite Church was converted into the Royal Chapel.
This is where Dom Pedro I married Princess Leopoldina of Habsburg. It became the Imperial Chapel with Brazil's independence in 1822. Here the two Brazilian Emperors were crowned: Dom Pedro I and his son, Dom Pedro II . With the advent of the Republic in 1889, the church was renamed Metropolitan Cathedral. It held until the new Cathedral was built, in 1976. The church holds the mortal remains of Pedro Alvares Cabral, the discoverer of Brazil (the tombstone is on the aisle, near the sacristy).
Santuário e Convento do Santo Antônio:
Santuário e Convento
do Santo Antônio, located near Largo da Carioca in Centro, is
another opulent church.
Besides being known for its talho dourado decor and beautiful 18th century sacristy, there are scores of devotees praying to Saint Anthony, the patron saint of marriage to find a spouse, pay off debts, buy a house, land a job, or pass the concurso (public service exam).
On the main altar there is
a terracotta statue of St. Anthony. This statue is mentioned in
stories written since 1710. The governor of Rio de Janeiro prayed to
the saint for protection in 1710 when the city was sieged by French
pirates... When the French invaded with a huge number of boats, the
Brazilians saw the fleet on the skyline as the sun set ready to
invade them at day break. They prayed to St Antony here; suddenly a
storm came up in the night and the French boats were dashed to the
rocks. . This expulsion of the French from Rio de Janeiro is
attributed to this statue and the people did not want it to be
returned to its place on the altar. Instead, they demanded that it be
kept in front of the church so that it could protect Guanabara Bay
day and night. Since then, a votive lamp has been kept lit. The
statue is now known as St. Anthony of the Dew. Following the victory
of the Brazilian forces, the statue of Saint Anthony was promoted to
the rank of captain of infantry, complete with soldier’s pay to be
donated to the convent. (The salary was used to fund soup kitchen
programs) in 1814 Saint Anthony was promoted to the rank of
Lieutenant Colonel with the corresponding increased salary paid to
the convent. In 1911, he was retired from service with no pension and
the payment to convent from Brazilian military finally stopped.
The Sacristy of the
Convent is beautiful, the magnificent baroque chest was carved by
Manuel Alves Setúbal in 1745. There are beautiful baroque Portuguese
tiles and on the ceiling paintings tell the story of St. Anthony. we
had a serene time praying here and admiring the architecture and
paintings
Igreja São Francisco da Penitência:
São Francisco da
Penitência Church is another opulent church very near santo antonio.
Igreja São Francisco
da Penitência —
1 TON OF GOLD USED IN THIS CHURCH
The church was completed
in 1737, nearly four decades after construction began. Today it's
famed for its wooden sculptures and its rich gold-leaf interior. The
nave contains a painting of St. Francis, the patron of the
church—reportedly the first painting in Brazil. address: Largo da
Carioca 5, Centro, Rio de Janeiro. Tues-Fri. 9-noon and 1-4
This is St Francis
receiving the stigmata...St Francis' father was a prosperous Italian
silk merchant. Francis lived the high-spirited life typical of a
wealthy young man. While going off to war in 1204, Francis had a
vision that directed him back to Assisi, where he lost his taste for
his worldly life. On a pilgrimage to Rome, he joined the poor in
begging at St. Peter's Basilica. The experience moved him to live in
poverty. Francis returned home, began preaching on the streets, and
soon amassed a following. Some interesting episodes in his life were
as follows...
Once Francis was
travelling with some companions and started to preach to the birds.
The birds surrounded him, intrigued by the power of his voice, and
not one of them flew away. He is often portrayed with a bird,
typically in his hand.
In the city of Gubbio,
where Francis lived for some time, was a wolf who devoured men as
well as animals. Francis went up into the hills. When he found the
wolf, he made the sign of the cross and commanded the wolf to come to
him. Miraculously the wolf closed his jaws and lay down at the feet
of St. Francis. Francis led the wolf into the town, and surrounded by
startled citizens made a pact between them and the wolf. Because the
wolf had “done evil out of hunger", the townsfolk were to feed
the wolf regularly. In return, the wolf would no longer prey upon
them or their flocks.
In 1224, he saw a vision
of a seraph, a six-winged angel on a cross. This angel gave him the
gift of the five wounds of Christ (the stigmata), making him the
first recorded person to bear the wounds of Christ's Passion. He died
on the evening of October 3, 1226, singing Psalm 142.
This church is a fitting
tribute to the great saint.
Mestre
Valentim leading sculptor of colonial Brazil (who was the mulatto son
of a noble Portuguese and an African) created the high altar and the
chapel of Nossa Senhora da Vitória (Our Lady of Victory)
Palácio Tiradentes:
This is Palácio
Tiradentes...
Palácio Tiradentes, in historic central Rio de Janeiro (Centro Histórico), is the seat of Rio de Janeiro's Legislative Assembly. It also has a permanent multimedia exhibit which first opened to the public, with guided tours, in 2008.
Palácio Tiradentes, in historic central Rio de Janeiro (Centro Histórico), is the seat of Rio de Janeiro's Legislative Assembly. It also has a permanent multimedia exhibit which first opened to the public, with guided tours, in 2008.
Opened in 1926, the palace
has an impressive facade with six columns. Tiradentes, the leader of the greatest colonist
conspiracy against Portugal, was held here before his execution . This palace was built in 1926 on the spot of the
Old Jail where Tiradentes, the martyr of the Independence, was held
prisoner in 1792 before being hung and decapitated.. This is his
statue --
supposedly bears little resemblance to the actual character, named Joaquim Jose da Silva Xavier
supposedly bears little resemblance to the actual character, named Joaquim Jose da Silva Xavier
The palace has an eclectic
style, with tall Greek columns and an octagonal glass dome. It is a
congress building, so is decorated with elements that portray history
and ideology.
The large sculptures on the ground floor represent Order and Progress, a motto of Brazil's Republican Banner. The sculptures on the top of the Palace stand for Agriculture, Commerce, and Industry. Law is between Freedom and Authority.
There was some special
event going on, so could not go inside
This
is the Igreja Nossa senhora da conceicao e boa morte (our lady of
conception and good death) ... the frontispiece of the main
altar, is in solid silver, dates back to the XVIII century. It took
100 years to build that church
Igreja
da Santa Cruz dos Militares built in 1780 by a renowned
Portuguese military engineer has the main entrance, carved in
jacaranda wood
Igreja da nossa senhora da lapa dos mercadores was built by a brotherhood of merchants,and consecrated in 1750. On the façade there are four marble statues representing São Felix, São Bernardo, São João da Mata, and Santo Adriano. The beautiful marble medallion, with a depiction of the Coronation of the Virgin, was found when they were digging the courtyard in the XIX century. It may have belonged to the Ordem da Terceira Penitência, that was based next door. Apparently it was hidden to keep it safe from pirates that looted the city. The carillon with 12 bells is the oldest in Rio. .
Another
curious detail is that when the large religious statue that decorated
the tower fell down, the only damage was a minor nick in a corner. It
is now in a niche on the sacristy
Igreja de São José:
Igreja
de São José : the original Chapel of São José was built
sometime between 1608 and 1640. In the end of the XVIII century the
chapel was in a terrible state of disrepair. The Brotherhood of São
José, one of the oldest in Rio, decided to raise a new church. The
two front towers are home to Rio de Janeiro's most cherished
carillon, of 1883. The church is a mix of several styles. The
colonial contrast of stone and whitewashed walls outside alternates
to heavy engraving in late Rococo style inside. The latter is a work
by Master Simeão de Nazaré, a disciple of Mestre Valentim. The
sacristy is carved in dark jacaranda wood, which is almost extinct
now
Mass was going on when we entered, the church was fully lit up and was a gorgeous sight.
Mass was going on when we entered, the church was fully lit up and was a gorgeous sight.
Catedral Metropolitana de São
Sebastião do Rio de Janeiro (Metropolitan Cathedral):
Catedral Metropolitana
de São Sebastião do Rio de Janeiro (Metropolitan Cathedral)
With
its unorthodox conical structure (inspired by Mayan pyramids) and
long stretches of stained glass, Rio’s severely modern cathedral cuts a tough profile in the heart of one
of the world’s most beautiful cities.
It can host as many as 20,000 worshipers at once, but from a distance the cathedral feels surprisingly unimposing – its polygonal facades echoing a bishop’s mitre.
It can host as many as 20,000 worshipers at once, but from a distance the cathedral feels surprisingly unimposing – its polygonal facades echoing a bishop’s mitre.
The church is dedicated to Saint Sebastian, the patron saint of Rio de Janeiro. Built from 1964 to 1979 the cathedral is Conical in form with 315 ft internal diameter and an overall height of 246 ft,
The
cathedral's four rectilinear stained glass windows soar 64 m (210 ft) from floor to ceiling.
ST
FRANCIS OF ASSISSI statue...
Near this is the Biblioteca Nacional. Again lovely jacaranda wood and an awesome collection of books in a lovely antique setting. Pics not allowed but here are some from the net...
We
had intended to take the ferry to the island of Niteroi and return to
centro but around 4 o clock when the office goers started their return
journey we also went back... sad how some tales of negativity rattled us!
Our trip to the AWESOME Iguazu falls continues with this post:
Our trip to the AWESOME Iguazu falls continues with this post:
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