How to Plan an International Trip: Travel Tales and Tips : Alaska Trip Report, Day 3: Kenai fjord cruise; Day 4: Exit Glacier Hike, Prince William Sound Cruise

DAY 3, Sep 1, 2018:

Kenai fjord cruise:

The Kenai Peninsula is known for the glaciers, coastal mountains, and fantastic scenery of Kenai Fjords National Park, which centers on the 700-square-mile Harding Icefield. The park covers more than 900 square miles total, but the only area that can actually be reached by road is Exit Glacier.

We were booked on the Major Marines Kenai Fjord cruise of 6 hrs, starting at 11.30 am. We had booked this much earlier as cruises taper off in Sep. and we did not want to face non availability. Because of early booking we got assigned great seats on both cruises, the very first window seats! Though we spent a lot of time on the deck, Good seats were welcome too! There are interior seats which may be very crowded.

In cruises in Argentina, Norway, NZ etc, they don't give assigned seating. Here it was a welcome pracice. And they even allow cancellation with full refund upto 3 days before the trip in case one can't make it. They also gave a discount when we booked the second cruise with them.

We picked up our boarding cards at the check-in counter at Harbor 360 hotel quite early.

We then walked around the promenade looking at the docked ships.

Later we waited in the lounge till they started boarding.

In retrospect, I wish we had not wasted that time. It was just a 10 min drive to the check in place and we could have at least seen the award winning huskies at the cabins we stayed in. I had not known seats were assigned, I had thought it was important to checkin and bag good seats for the long 6 hour cruise. Anyway the lounge had a monitor and internet and we spent the time watching Rafa highlights of US open

The boat has two levels of covered inside seating, with large glass windows. But of course the best views were out on the top deck where we spent a lot of our time and the open deck in the front of the boat.

The top deck had solid structures for support while standing. The sea was pretty choppy till we crossed the Resurrection Bay. We were advised to always have 3 points of contact. It was Fun trying to stand steadily and enjoy the sights.

There was a Ranger on board, who provided good narration of all sightings. Sea otters were the most fun to watch, there were huge pods of them.

The boat moved to the Holgate glacier. Then off to the Aialik glacier.

Scenic lunch by the side of Aialik glacier

We crossed the Chiswell Islands, where we saw a huge number of nesting birds. Tons of puffins. Bunch of sea lions lounging on the rocks. Orcas jumping about.

The islands were very pretty, with unusual shapes. Great photo ops.

The sun shone bright in a clear sky, and the views were excellent.

Then the boat started its return journey.

We deboarded, drove to Lowell point.

Then on to Nash road before driving back to our cabin

DAY 4 Sep 2, 2018:

Exit glacier Hike; Prince William Sound Cruise and drive from Whittier to Palmer

The Prince William Sound Cruise boat sailed at 12:45 pm. So we hiked to Exit glacier before starting on our drive toward the Whittier tunnel.

Our cabin was on the Old Glacier road; Exit Glacier Road is 9 miles long, and the Exit glacier was at the terminal of that road. We checked out, kept the key on the table and left the door ajar.

Exit Glacier is one of the most popular road-accessible glaciers in the state. We had a scenic drive

Visitor center

"Edge of the Glacier Trail" (also known as the Lower Trail):

It's only a 15-20 minute, flat walk from the parking area to the glacier, but we walk through a trail in the forest and along a gravel river bar. At the start, we can see the changes in vegetation with the gradual melting of the glacier. Markers have been placed showing the glacier's recession over the past 120 years.

The more strenuous Harding Icefield Trail which is about 8.4 miles round-trip (also known as the Upper Trail) is another option for independent hikers.The upper trail provides an overlook, as if you're standing right on the glacier. It is a challenging day hike to a 3,500-foot summit, but you are treated with stunning views of the 700-square-mile Harding Icefield. This massive ice sheet, located within Kenai Fjords National Park, is the source of over 35 named glaciers, including Exit. The Harding Icefield Trail winds up the north edge of Exit Glacier, offering spectacular views of the glacier and surrounding mountains along the way. This steep trail is best suited for in-shape hikers (might be hard on the knees, too), gaining 1,000 feet of elevation with each mile.

We did not have time for it regretfully.

We had a very lovely hike on the lower trail.

On the way back to parking, we detoured to the outwash plain too... that was great as well.

Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel

Driving from Anchorage/Seward to Whittier to enjoy Prince William Sound requires one to go through Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel—the longest (2.5 miles) highway tunnel in North America, and the first designed for -40 Fahrenheit temperatures and 150 mph winds!

The one-lane tunnel must be shared by cars and trains traveling in both directions, and it usually needs to be aired out in between trips (with jet turbine ventilation, another first!). This unique design that enables a single lane of traffic to travel directly over the railroad track saved tens of millions of dollars over the cost of constructing a new tunnel.

Summer Schedule

To Whittier: Cars leave on the half hour, from 5:30am to 10:30pm.
From Whittier: Cars leave on the hour, from 6am to 11pm.
Arrive at least 10 minutes prior to tunnel opening. (Arriving earlier isn’t a waste; park in line, then get out of your car and soak in the scenery.)
Give yourself another 20 - 30 minutes to get through the tunnel.
The drive is only 10 minutes, but the opening can be delayed, or there can be a line before you enter.

We reached the tunnel, paying the toll of $13 which is the return fare.

We drove through and reached early for the cruise check in. When I asked if our seating depended on the check in, she replied they have already been allotted.

As I said in my previous post, if I had known this, I would have used my time wisely.

There was a very friendly lady regulating the parking at the check in office at Whittier. The parking there was $12, while parking 5 minute walk away was $10 for the day. The lady showed us a map and gave suggestions on what we could see before boarding our cruise. Told us to be alert for bears, she also cautioned that the traffic cops are very vigilant, they even pull up locals who work in those facilities for infractions.

We drove to the place of the Falls she suggested, short drive past the school, then had a short walk to the lovely gushing stream and the falls.

We walked through a couple of short trails

and then returned to our car.

We went on a short drive to get a better look at the lovely Whittier glacier towering over the town, then took a road up the slopes. We stopped where the road turned to gravel and had a great view of the glacier.

Time was creeping up and we returned to the check in office. Our decision was to park there even if it was $2 more as we can drive away faster. We saw a FULL board, and 2 cars waiting at the entrance. We mistakenly assumed there was no space, went in search of the other parking lot.

Cops were patrolling the hwy as the lady had warned there are numerous traffic fines doled out. We found the lot, an attendant came and collected $12 and we left the car parked there, walked to the boarding line. All our bags were in the boot of our car, valuables with us.

There was quite a bit of a wait before boarding. It was a much smaller boat than the one on Kenai fjords the previous day. As for the weather, it was AGAIN the best day.

Our seats were the first couch to the left upstairs. We were the only ones and had huge legroom. Captain's cabin was just ahead of us. We did not have a table, but did not miss it.

Prince William Sound has 100 named glaciers. Once again a great cruise with AWESOME views. It was a very calm sea.

Sea Otter

When we were returning, the captain also cautioned about many traffic fines and asked everyone to drive safe. We lined up at the tunnel in the 7th row. Made it in when our side opened.

On the way back, Seward hwy did not seem as appealing as it had on our way in, probably has to do with the lighting, and us being on the side of the cliffs.

We stopped at Walmart at Anchorage again as we wanted to buy some bananas, bread. This was not the one we had shopped at earlier. Here a lady refused to let me enter with our small day pack with our valuables. She offered to help us with a locker, I preferred to sit at the entrance with the bag while son went to get the stuff we needed. She insisted 3, 4 times about the locker, I politely declined.

We drove on and reached our hotel well within daylight hours.

ACCOMMODATION:

Pioneer motel, Palmer was more than adequate, had some lovely aesthetic touches and soothing music was playing on the TV as we entered. We had wanted to stay at Long Rifle Lodge at Glacier view with view of Matanuska glacier but another 45 minute drive on the Glennhwy at night put us off. No regrets.