Wednesday, August 9, 2017

London Trip Report, Day 4: Windsor Castle

Day 4, May 1, 2013, Wed: 


The Queen uses the Windsor castle as a royal palace as well as her weekend home and it is now often used for state banquets and official entertaining as Buckingham Palace.

Important to check the website about the Queen's visit because on those days, the state apartments are not open for visitors.

We were staying at Premier Inn, Hanger lane, so we didn’t have to go to central London to take a train for Windsor castle… We caught the train at Ealing Broadway, and transferred at Slough to reach Windsor and walked to the castle just as it was opening for visitors… 

9.20 by the clock on this tower.

This is Queen Victoria's statue. 



Her husband Prince Albert died in the Blue Room at Windsor Castle in 1861 and was buried in the Royal Mausoleum, within the Home Park. The prince's rooms were maintained exactly as they had been at the moment of his death and Victoria kept the castle in a state of mourning for many years, becoming known as the "Widow of Windsor", a phrase popularised in the famous poem by Rudyard Kipling.The Queen shunned the use of Buckingham Palace after Albert's death and instead used Windsor Castle as her residence when conducting official business near London.Towards the end of her reign plays, operas and other entertainments began to be held at the castle again.

HISTORY


The original castle was built in the 11th century after the Norman invasion of England by William the Conqueror. Henry III built a luxurious royal palace within the castle during the middle of the 13th century, and Edward III rebuilt to produce an even grander set of buildings

Henry VIII and Elizabeth I used the castle as a royal court for diplomatic entertainment. During English Civil War, it was used as a military headquarters for Parliamentary forces and a prison for Charles I. During the Restoration, Charles II rebuilt Windsor Castle, creating extravagant, Baroque interiors that are still admired.

After a period of neglect during the 18th century, George III and George IV renovated and rebuilt Charles II's palace at colossal expense, producing the current design of the State Apartments, full of Rococo, Gothic and Baroque furnishings.

Victoria made minor changes to the castle, which became the centre for royal entertainment for much of her reign. 

 In 1917 King George V adopted the name House of Windsor , as the British Royal Family's official name by a proclamation replacing the historic name of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha (severing the German association at the time of WWI). It remains the family name of the current Royal Family

 Windsor Castle was used as a refuge for the royal family during the bombing campaigns of the Second World War and survived a fire in 1992. It is a popular tourist attraction, a venue for hosting state visits, and the Queen's preferred weekend home. five hundred people live and work in the castle now.




The airport type security screening was smooth—no questions asked about the picnic lunch we were carrying.

Our audio guide wasn't too useful as we had read up details on our own.

DOLLS HOUSE:


We headed towards the Doll’s house and spent almost an hour kneeling down on all the sides and enjoying the miniature marvel…..

Made to a scale of 1: 12 the house stands 8ft wide, 4ft deep and 5ft high and features all the comforts required in a stately home. A gift to current Queen’s grandmother, the dolls house includes contributions from 1,500 artists, craftsmen. The carpets, curtains and furnishings are all copies of the real thing, and even the light fittings are working. The bathrooms are fully plumbed, with a flushable toilet and miniature lavatory paper.



Even the art is a miniature version by the original painters (there are 750 works of art) and amazingly the walnut paneled library’s books are real as well… The library includes original works by the top literary names of the day, 200 authors, including Rudyard Kipling, Thomas Hardy. Princess Marie sent blank volumes to writers and poets to fill in and got back a hand-written leather-bound story from Conan Doyle called, How Watson Learned The Trick. Kipling submitted a 4x3cm book of handwritten poems for the walnut-panelled library, some unpublished with his own illustrations. Thomas Hardy sent seven poems while Robert Graves penned five. Other contributors included Aldous Huxley, John Buchan and Somerset Maugham, But Virginia Woolf and George Bernard Shaw declined the royal invitation. The ghost-story writer MR James wrote "The Haunted Dolls' House". How appropriate!

There is also a fully stocked wine cellar filled with 200 bottles Champagnes, wines, spirits and beers. Amazing!!

And behind a gate in the strongroom lie tiny copies of the Crown Jewels.

The domestic quarters and the rooms below stairs are great as well…

In the kitchen, a copper kettle made out of a King George V penny is on the stove and there are even mops, brooms and a vacuum cleaner.

WOW! What a piece of work!

The idea of the dolls house came from the Queen's cousin, Princess Marie Louise, one of the top architects of the time, Sir Edwin Lutyens constructed it. The top artists and craftsmen contributed their special abilities . As a result, the dolls' house has an amazing collection of miniature items that actually work. It even has running water through its tiny pipes.


has these pics:











Queen Mary's Dolls' House is a major attraction here— we spent 1 hour admiring it in detail. it was built in the early 1920s for Queen Mary, the wife of King George V.

Some more history:


Queen Mary, and King George V are current Queen Elizabeth II 's grandparents

George V was a grandson of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert and the first cousin of Tsar Nicholas II of Russia and Kaiser Wilhelm II of Germany. (George's father was King Edward VII, Victoria's eldest son). On 17 July 1917, George changed the name of the British royal house from the German-sounding House of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha to the House of Windsor. He and all his British relatives relinquished their German titles and styles, and adopted British-sounding surnames.

The back story is as follows:
From 1914 to 1918, Britain and its allies were at war with the Central Powers, led by the German Empire. The German Kaiser Wilhelm II, who for the British public came to symbolise all the horrors of the war, was the King's first cousin.

The King's paternal grandfather was Prince Albert of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha; consequently, the King and his children bore that German name. Queen Mary, although British like her mother, was the daughter of the Duke of Teck, a descendant of the German Dukes of Württemberg. 

When H. G. Wells wrote about Britain's "alien and uninspiring court", George famously replied: "I may be uninspiring, but I'll be damned if I'm alien."He changed the family name as Windsor to appear British and the tradition continues to this day.

at his death was succeeded by his eldest son, Edward VIII.

Before the First World War, most of Europe was ruled by monarchs related to George, but during and after the war, the monarchies of Austria, Germany, Greece, and Spain, like Russia, fell to revolution and war.

When Tsar Nicholas II of Russia, George's first cousin (their mothers were sisters), was overthrown in the Russian Revolution of 1917, the British government offered political asylum to the Tsar and his family, but worsening conditions for the British people, and fears that revolution might come to the British Isles, led George V to think that the presence of the Russian royals might seem inappropriate in the circumstances. The Tsar and his immediate family remained in Russia, where they were murdered by Bolsheviks in 1918. The following year, Nicholas's mother (George's aunt) Maria Feodorovna (Dagmar of Denmark) and other members of the extended Russian imperial family were rescued from the Crimea by British ships.

In 1922, a Royal Navy ship was sent to Greece to rescue George V's cousins, Prince and Princess Andrew (Their children included Prince Philip, who would later marry George's granddaughter, Elizabeth II who is the current Queen). Prince Andrew was the son of George's uncle  King George I of Greece,  (brother of George's mother Queen Alexandra). Princess Andrew was a daughter of Prince Louis of Battenberg, one of the German princes granted a British peerage in 1917.

 To add to the royal lineage, King of Denmark was the father of Queen Alexandria, (wife of England's George V) and King George of Greece and Empress Maria Fyodorovna, who married Alexander III of Russia (Alexander III is the huge uncouth king who built spilled blood church on the spot his father Alexander II was assassinated).

To see the Russian side of things—-Nicholas II succeded to the throne when his father Alexander III died at the age of 49.

Nicholas II was 1st cousin to George V as their mothers were sisters. Nicholas II  was the last tsar of Russia and his entire family with wife, son, 4 daughters, doctor, cook, maid was assassinated in 1918 by bolsheviks. Faberge the famed jeweller was spared though.

Nicholas was related to several monarchs in Europe. His mother's siblings included Kings Frederik VIII of Denmark and George I of Greece as well as England's Queen Alexandra (consort of King Edward VII). Nicholas, his wife, Alexandra, and Kaiser Wilhelm II of Germany were all first cousins of King George V. Nicholas was also a first cousin of both King Haakon VII and Queen Maud of Norway, as well as King Constantine I of Greece. While not first cousins, Nicholas and Kaiser Wilhelm II were second cousins, once removed, as each descended from King Frederick William III of Prussia, as well as third cousins, as they were both great-great-grandsons of Tsar Paul I of Russia. Nicholas and his wife, Alexandra, were also second cousins, as both were descended from Wilhelmine of Baden, the wife of Grand Duke Louis II of Hesse.

DOLLS HOUSE:


OK, to come back to the doll’s house, dolls’ house… don’t know where the apostrophe has to go but I guess it does not matter as no doll ever lived in this house…it’s just sad to know no doll held by a tiny hand ever walked around these magnificent rooms, sat on the chairs or lolled around in the beds… guess the humble cardboard dolls houses we ordinary mortals used to play with had witnessed more fun, with our dolls striding through their length and breadth, sipping out of tiny cups and enjoying the lovely routine we managed to create for them with trivial accessories!!!

The next room has 2 lovely dolls presented to the current queen and her sister when they visited France when their father was the king—those dolls with their extensive wardrobe are cool … hope they were played with and had a great life!!

Changing of the Guards:


We noticed it was nearing 11 and rushed near the entrance to watch the changing of the guards—lovely music by the band … visiting school kids marching and dancing to the tune made the ceremony more enjoyable.

St George’s Chapel:


After the thoroughly entertaining show, we entered the St George’s chapel and admired the 15th century ornate ceiling and the heraldic banners of the knights.



St George's chapel...the buttress columns being extended above the roof is called flying buttress and is a gothic feature along with the pointed arches.

St George's Chapel dates from the late 15th and early 16th century.
The ornate wooden choir stalls are decorated with brass plates showing the arms of the Knights of the Garter over the last six centuries.


On the west side, the chapel has a grand Victorian door and staircase, used on ceremonial occasions.The east stained glass window is Victorian, and the oriel window to the north side of it was built by Henry VIII for Catherine of Aragon.

The vault in front of the altar houses the remains of Henry VIII, his favorite wife Jane Seymour and Charles I, with Edward IV buried nearby.

We then traced our way up the hill toward the state apartments. Sat at one of the benches overlooking the scenic view of the town sprawling beneath the hill and had our lunch… we were thankful we did not have to trudge all the way down to the town for a meal.





State apartments:


A few tidbits about the castle...as Victoria disliked gaslight, preferring candles electric lighting was only installed in limited parts of the castle at the end of her reign. Indeed, the castle was famously cold and draughty in Victoria's reign, but it was connected to a nearby reservoir, with water reliably piped into the interior for the first time.

Many of the changes under Victoria were to the surrounding parklands. When Victoria's son Edward VII came to the throne in 1901, rooms in the Upper Ward were de-cluttered and redecorated for the first time in many years, with Edward "peering into cabinets; ransacking drawers; clearing rooms formerly used his father Prince Albert and not touched since his death; ... destroying statues and busts of John Brown (John Brown was Victoria's allegd lover and servant disliked by her children)...

 Electric lighting was added to more rooms, along with central heating; telephone lines were installed, along with garages for the newly invented automobiles.

The state apartments were great, we trooped through an impressive array of rooms admiring the art, tapestry and royal furniture and accessories.... 

These pics are from the net.





Fire, 1992:


On 20 November 1992, a major fire occurred at Windsor Castle, lasting for fifteen hours.

 The Private Chapel in the north-east corner of the State Apartments was being renovated and one of the spotlights used in the work set fire to a curtain by the altar during the morning. The fire spread quickly and destroyed nine of the principal state rooms, and severely damaged over a hundred more. Fire-fighters applied water to contain the blaze, whilst castle staff attempted to rescue the precious artworks from the castle.

Many of the rooms closest to the fire had been emptied as part of the renovation work, and this contributed to the successful evacuation of most of the collection. The fire spread through the roof voids and efforts continued through the night to contain the blaze, at great risk to the 200 fire-fighters involved. Water damage to the castle caused more complex restoration problems than the fire.

Following the fire was a political debate in Britain as to who should pay for the repairs. Traditionally, as the property of the Crown, Windsor Castle was maintained, and if necessary repaired, by the British government; furthermore, like other state buildings, it was not insured.

 The British press strongly argued in favor of the Queen herself being required to pay for the repairs from her private income.  A solution was found in which the restoration work would be paid for by opening Buckingham Palace to the public at selected times of the year, and by introducing new charges for public access to the parkland surrounding Windsor.

There is a nice memorial in the lantern room where the fire started. An interesting detail—it took 50 soldiers to roll up the Indian carpet in the Waterloo chamber during the fire—this is the largest carpet without seams.

We then retraced our way through the same rooms getting a second look and then exited.

Tapestry in the gift shop here.

We took extensive photos in the gift shop because pics are not allowed when we toured the state rooms..







We made our way through the castle grounds and past the mall to the station,






 took some pics of the replica of the royal train and took the train back to Slough and then onward to Ealing Broadway.

We had an early train to catch the next day May 2nd—the 7AM Edinburgh express for a 3 day stay at Edinburgh.. we packed one bag to carry with us… we had made arrangements with our hotel to hold the rest of our bags in their storage room till we came back on the night of May 4th


Lulled by the awesome spell of sunny weather we had experienced in London for 4 days, I packed our umbrellas in the bags to be left behind… the Scottish weather Gods must have chuckled at our foolishness… but we did not hear it and drifted off to sleep…

Edinburgh report continues here:

http://adventuretrav.blogspot.com/2017/08/uk-trip-report-day-5-edinburgh-royal.html

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