Wednesday, April 19, 2023

Mexico Feb 2023 Trip Report: Weekend trip to Taxco, the Silver City

 

Feb 4, 2023, Saturday

Taxco, 160 km southwest of Mexico City, has ridden waves of boom and bust associated with wealthy silver deposits discovered here in the 16th century and then repeatedly until the early 20th century. With its silver now almost depleted, Taxco thrives on tourism. 

Unlike many colonial-era towns, Taxco has not been engulfed by industrial suburbs, and new buildings must conform to the old in scale, style and materials. This preserves Taxco as a striking small city and one of the best weekend trips from the capital.

Because of its colonial character, with its fine Baroque church of Santa Prisca and old buildings lining its steep, narrow, cobblestone streets, it has been declared a national monument and is a tourist centre as well as an art centre.

Taxco is also a commercial centre for the area, which yields corn (maize), beans, sugarcane, and fruits.

SHOULD HAVE PREBOOKED BUS TICKETS

We looked at availability of tickets on the bus to Taxco the previous evening online on 3 companies. there was availability. we did not want to commit to the time. decided to uber to the bus station in the morning and buy the ticket as we had done for Puebla last visit.

Busses bound for Taxco leave from the south terminal in Mexico City, often referred to as "Taxqueña." Estrella de Oro, Estrella Blanca and Costa Bus provide service on the route. 

our stuff was in the apartment. just hid the work laptop

took a small bag. 
when we reached the bus station by 6.30, there were no tickets till 10 am. we went to another company kiosk. nothing there. when we returned here, only 12 noon was available. we bought that and sat in the cold steel seats for hours!!!

then we saw even that bus was delayed, so after 12.30 we set off on the 3 hour trip.

cliff roads

Volkswagen Beetle taxi [red dot on side]... quite a lot of them in this area around Taxco. Look cute but terrible emissions from them

Surrounded by dramatic mountains and cliffs, Taxco's (tahss-ko) perfectly preserved colonial architecture is stunning.

The first sight of  white buildings scattered across the steep valley here:

Posada Joan Sebastian, Centro, Taxco

Our hotel was a lovely old building in the historic center, some 300 m walk from the bus station.
this is the reception room with mural of the Taxco church Santa Prisca de Taxco
 Location is 300 m from the Costaline bus terminal up a cobblestone street and the Zocalo with the church Santa Prisca de Taxco is 300 m away walk up some steps. The complex is very beautiful with a lot of excellent wall murals. The owners live on the premises and were very responsive and sweet. 
our room entrance
Even our room had lovely peacocks and flowers on all the walls.


kitchen.  There was a convenient gas stove in the kitchen and filtered water to drink. We had our own utensils.
terrace. The view of the Church Santa Prisca de Taxco towers from the terrace outside our room was amazing.
patio with the reception up the steps
Santa Prisca de Taxco mural in  Posada Joan Sebastian
entrance

outside the gate

Volkswagen Beetle taxi [red dot on side]

Taxco, in full Taxco de Alarcón, city, northern Guerrero estado (state), south-central Mexico. It lies on the slopes of Atache Hill, at 5,758 feet (1,755 metres) above sea level, in the Taxco Mountains.

The place was a mining centre in pre-Columbian times. The Indian settlement (Tlacho), together with the settlement founded by the Spanish in 1528, became the city of Taxco and was one of the first early mining centres to be inhabited by Spaniards. The city prospered in the 18th century, its silver mines producing great wealth
pretty sights on the climb up to the zocalo/centro

steps leading up







Santa Prisca y San Sebastian de Taxco

Santa Prisca is one of Mexico’s most beautiful and striking pieces of baroque architecture. Santa Prisca was a labor of love for town hero José de la Borda. The local Catholic hierarchy allowed the silver magnate to donate this church to Taxco on the condition that he mortgage his mansion and other assets to guarantee its completion. The project nearly bankrupted him, but the risk produced an extraordinary legacy. It was designed by Spanish architects Juan Caballero and Diego Durán, and was constructed between 1751 and 1758.
 Its standout feature (best viewed side-on) is the contrast between its belfries, with their elaborate Churrigueresque facade, and the far more simple, constrained and elegant nave. 

The rose-colored stone used on the facade is extraordinarily beautiful in sunlight – look for the oval bas-relief depiction of Christ’s baptism above the doorway.

At the center we see the Virgin Mary (behind glass), the Sacred Heart of Jesus above her, Saint Peter further above, and God the Father at the very peak. Other saints, including Prisca and Sebastian, are also noticeable. Paintings of varying sizes are found on most of the retablos





 Inside, the intricately sculpted, gold-covered altarpieces are equally fine Churrigueresque specimens. Santa Prisca has one of the few interiors that is original to the 18th century. Many churches were gutted and redone in a neoclassical style in the 19th century, so it is rare to experience one that is preserved. While the plan of the church is simple—a single nave with a transept (crossing)

The largest Virgin of Guadalupe in the world made of silver, 120 kilos of pure silver, 1.7 meters high






the inside compound of the church




we made our way back to the hotel.
nice hammock here
craft shop
down the steep path to our hotel




Back on our terrace with the lovely view of the church

Made food in the communal kitchen... filtered drinking water bottle visible



had our food on the terrace outside our room with this lovely view



Son went back to the church and enjoyed the night view


report continues    

1 comment:

  1. Thank you for sharing your trip to Taxco. We should be headed there for about 3 nts in December from CDMX, this report helps with logistics.

    ReplyDelete