Tuesday, April 26, 2016

PARIS TRIP REPORT: DAY 2a Sacre Coeur, Musee d’orsay, Musee de l’Orangerie

May 17th, 2014, Saturday: Sacre Coeur, Musee d’orsay, Musee de l’Orangerie, Tuilleries, Rodin museum, Invalides, Nissim Camondo Museum.


DAY 2 a: Sacre Coeur, Musee d’orsay, Musee de l’Orangerie


is the video which contains activities of our day 2.

This post covers  Sacre Coeur, Musee d’orsay, Musee de l’Orangerie, Tuilleries and the next one will cover the rest of the day.

Woke up by 5.30 AM, excited about the long day ahead of us.

Europe celebrates Museum day once every year in May. As luck would have it, May 17 was museum day with all participating museums open till 12 midnight and all of them free in the evening.

We had the museum pass and were not concerned about the free part but were happy about the extra time.

Sacre Coeur:


Since our hotel is in the Montemartre area, decided to start the day with Sacre Coeur. It opens at 6 am and so does the funicular. We took the metro from Blanche and got down at Anvers—got to the foot of the hill by 8am… the serene white edifice towered over the landscape and it was an ethereal moment. Needless to say, no other tourist in sight.


 An interesting tidbit—the travertine stone used for building the cathedral exudes calcite—that’s why the exterior is so white, not affected by pollution.

Went towards the funicular and tried to use our used metro ticket as we had read it’ll work for the funicular as well. But it didn’t and the girl at the counter told us to use a new one. We got into the cable car with a couple of locals and went up.

On the funicular


Entered the basilica and a mass was on… soul stirring music added to the beauty as we admired the mosaic ceiling. I had been a little annoyed that we had not started the day earlier but the pleasure of being a part of the lovely mass was so worth it.

The altar...
Light from stained glass windows coloring hair and t-shirt...ha..ha..
Dome (83m high)... The apse mosaic, (1922) depicts Christ in Majesty and The Sacred Heart worshiped by the Virgin Mary, Joan of Arc and St. Michael the Archangel....





The site of this 19th-century basilica is associated with the beheading of the city's patron, Saint Denis, in the 3rd century.

According to legend, after he was martyred, Bishop Denis picked up his severed head and carried it several miles to the north, where the suburb of Saint-Denis stands today....

The triple-arched portico is surmounted by two bronze equestrian statues of France's national saints, Joan of Arc and King Saint Louis IX

Main portal with great bronze doors are copies of those of the famous Baptistry in Florence




Side altar with St Peter holding the key to Pearly Gates...His feet have a shine because of being constantly touched/kissed by devotees...



 Took some discrete pics and walked down to the rampart to admire the awesome view of the entire city sprawled under.


 Then we walked towards metro station Abbyss passing through souvenir shops just opening up.

Took the metro to Assemblee Nationale and walked to Musee d’orsay.

Musee d’orsay:


With our museum pass went in without a wait, checked in our day pack bags at the cloak room.

The museum is housed in the former Gare d'Orsay, a Beaux-Arts railway station built between 1898 and 1900.... Gare d'Orsay was the terminus for the railways of southwestern France until 1939.

By 1939 the station's short platforms had become unsuitable for the longer trains.

In 1970, permission was granted to demolish the station

 Instead it was turned to a museum creating 20,000 sq. m. of new floorspace on four floors to install  2000 paintings, 600 sculptures by 1986!




 We had a quick look at the open court sculpture gallery

3m high Statue of Liberty; original in the US is 46m high!
A small-scale model of the Statue of Liberty by Auguste Bartholdi (1834-1904) has been placed right at the start of the grand central aisle on the ground floor...

The original 46 m high Statue of Liberty installed in 1886 at the entrance to New York Harbor on Liberty Island  is a gift from France to the USA,  welcoming generations of emigrants as they arrived by boat in search of a better life.

In 1865, the academician Laboulaye first put forward the idea of France giving a prestigious gift to the United States to celebrate the centenary of American independence and to seal the friendship of the two nations.

This gesture also sent a message of opposition to the imperial regime of Napoleon III and to his foreign policy

This version, 3 meters high, was exhibited in 1900 at the Universal Exhibition in Paris. The sculptor expressed a hope that the State would buy it. The state did and we get to see it here!

We went straight to the Van Gogh special exhibition. It was crowded but the people moved in an orderly manner and we could gaze at the master pieces to our heart’s content.

Did not really like the focus on the suicide aspect but were thrilled to see so many Van Gogh pieces from all over the world—the Amsterdam museum for example.

All the self portraits were in chronological order and there were some English explanations as well—fair curating attempt. We bought a Starry nights souvenir and then went onward to the other galleries.

Impressionist paintings galore and we had a fill of Monet’s landscapes with his wife and her friends carrying parasols… https://tinyurl.com/lvo4x4u

Renior’s portraits of young girls, Degas ballet girls ... 

No pics allowed in 2014.

In 2015, they have started allowing pics without flash – a minister had taken some pics and posted on social media site and it had created a public uproar as to why she had special privileges. So the museum has started allowing pics by all visitors!

The website is a little convoluted. Wish I can get to have a relook at the awesome galleries we saw and admired!

Link gives a small replica of some of the pictures and info and you can zoom into the pic to enlarge it!

Here’s Monet’s Regattas: https://tinyurl.com/o68fuzd

 ENJOY the famous fragmented brushstroke!

Just now found the index and got a link to all of Monet’s masterpieces… yippee! https://tinyurl.com/5c5blo
Lets us enjoy 88 Monet’s!


Our bags with packed picnic lunch and snacks had been checked in and so we went to a cafeteria and after a wait of a few minutes approached the counter and gave an order for croissants, chocolate muffins and hot chocolates. Collected our trays and sat on high stools. The croissants were light and flaky, the muffin melted in the mouth and the hot chocolate was creamy and divine… DID NOT expect this at a museum café! Guess it’s PARIS magic!

We attacked the other galleries with renewed passion, took pics of the famous clock.



Admired the view of Sacre Coeur from its dial


and then went to the terrace.



Seine flowed quietly, boats filled to the brim with people floated by.


 We exited the museum. The square is full of lovely statues.


Statues in this square of the museum were made for the third Paris World's Fair, ( Exposition Universelle),  held in 1878 to celebrate the recovery of France after the 1870 Franco-Prussian War.




LOVE LOCKS:

Got out, crossed Passerelle Solferino with its hideous love locks—thought it was the infamous bridge Pont des arts but I guess the lock menace has pervaded everywhere.


Some people find it romantic to engrave their names on a lock, fix it over a bridge and throw away the key... they think their love will be locked in for ever… There are some guide books and even the city of Paris site itself promoting the love lock culture as romantic and there are pedlars selling them right on the bridge

The love locks look positively hideous, as they rust away... the panels fall off with the weight...so it’s really VANDALISM.



Walked through the Tuilleries ...


Braving a lion's bite!
With a more sedate lion!
Sat in the Tuilleries and had our picnic lunch.


The Eiffel tower stood a silent witness in the distant background and birdies chirped all around –
\
Rodin’s lovers were locked in an eternal kiss, in all their patina bronze glory, right near us!

Rodin's lovers locked in a Kiss

Musee de l’Orangerie


Walked to Musee de l’Orangerie—entered the highly acclaimed oval rooms with Monet’s Nymphéas bleus. WOW! Violins serenaded, a cool, gentle breeze caressed and calm peace descended! What an impact! We sat on the benches gazing awestruck, then moved from one end of hall to another… at strategic places, we could see the flowers swaying and the water rippling! Epiphanic! 

Again no pics but the lilies are imprinted in our memory!

This Walter-Guillaume Collection on the lower level of the museum is a wonderful bonus. .. Paul Guillaume was an important patron of the arts in Paris, and the museum includes these fascinating miniature dioramas of his study and collection....



This diorama shows a model of the study of Paul & Domenica Guillaume and the museum houses their collection.

The collection includes works by Renoir, Picasso, Modigliani, Marie Laurencin, Cezanne, Matisse, Rousseau, and other Impressionists and post-Impressionists up to about 1930.





The story of the collection is equally fascinating.

Paul Guillaume was a young man of modest means working in an auto garage when he found some African sculptures in a delivery of rubber.

 His display of them brought him to the attention of the poet Guillaume Apollinaire, who in turn introduced him to many of the artists of the day—Pablo Picasso, Marie Laurencin and others.

At Paul's death he asked that his collection be made public.

His widow Domenica, by then remarried to wealthy businessman and architect Jean Walter, insisted on including the names of both her husbands.

Domenica was a colorful character who after Paul's death adopted a son and was later accused of Paul's murder.

Some speculate that the murder charge was dropped in exchange for her donating the collection to the state.

You can see, on the wall, miniature recreations of some of the paintings in the museum! 

We walked out. Could see the obelisk, in Place de la Concorde, reminding of the guillotine it had replaced in the very spot!

Place de la Concorde...


In 1755, this area was decorated with statues and fountains and named Place Louis XV to honor the king at that time.

During the French Revolution the statue of Louis XV of France was torn down and the area renamed "Place de la Révolution".

The new revolutionary government erected the guillotine in the square, and King Louis XVI was executed here on 21 January 1793.

 Queen Marie Antoinette was also guillotined on this site

In 1795,  the square was renamed Place de la Concorde as a gesture of reconciliation after the turmoil of the French Revolution

The guillotine was replaced by this 3,300-year-old obelisk.

The center of the Place de la Concorde is occupied by this giant Egyptian obelisk decorated with hieroglyphics exalting the reign of the pharaoh Ramesses II.

The obelisk once marked the entrance to the Luxor Temple.

The Ottoman viceroy of Egypt, Mehmet Ali, offered the 3,300-year-old Luxor Obelisk to France in 1829.

It arrived in Paris in 1833.

Three years later, in 836, King Louis Philippe had it placed in the center of Place de la Concorde

It is one of two the Egyptian government gave to the French in the 19th century.

The other one stayed in Egypt, too difficult and heavy to move to France with the technology at that time.

In the 1990s, President François Mitterrand gave the second obelisk back to the Egyptians.

What history and what beauty all in one place!

http://adventuretrav.blogspot.com/2016/04/paris-trip-report-day-2-b-invalides.html
continues the report of our Day 2

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