Nov 29, 2014: Ollantaytambo Ruin Hike:
SUMMARY: 7am-10am Ollantaytambo ruin
climb; 12.58 expedition train to Aguas Calientes.
Check in at Hostal Adelas river view room. Bought the
bus tickets to MP for the next day at the counter before retiring for
the day.
DETAILS:
This is our Hostal Iskay,
Ollantaytambo. We had had a great sleep , got up refreshed, had our free breakfast at the hotel which starts at 5.30.
They also have RO filter water available for guests which was AWESOME.
At 6.30 am, we were on our way to
Ollantaytambo ruins... early start to avoid crowds and heat!
At the northern end of the Sacred
Valley, Ollantaytambo is a massive citadel located 50 kilometers from
Machu Picchu. The citadel served as both a temple and a fortress.
HISTORY OF OLLANTAYTAMBO RUINS:
The name derives from the word Ollanta
(which is the name of an Incan Captain whose story is known through
literature) and the word tambo, a Spanish derivation of the Quechua
word tampu=inn; which means city that offers lodging, food and
comfort to travelers.
During the Inca Empire, Ollantaytambo
was the royal estate of Emperor Pachacuti who conquered the region,
built the town and a ceremonial center. Ollantaytambo is named after
Inka Pachacutec's General Ollanta (not his namesake modern-day
president, Ollanta Humala). Ollanta fell in love with the Inka's
daughter, Cusi Coyllor, but the Inca refused her hand; it was
impossible for a member of the monarchy to marry a commoner, even one
who was a military leader. Thus scorned, Ollanta rebelled against his
sovereign and defeated his troops with an army led by his lieutenant,
Rumiñahui. The Inca died in the fighting and was succeeded by his
son, Yupanqui.
Rumiñahui, deciding he had more of a
future as a loyal subject, betrayed Ollanta and took him prisoner. The new Inca, however, remembered
Ollanta's past heroism, showed clemency and even allowed him to marry
princess Cusi Coyllur.
This fortress/temple was started by the
Emperor Pachacutec mentioned above but work mysteriously stopped on
this huge project. History says that the inhabitants refused to pay
the taxes imposed by Inca Pachacútec, and they were murdered with
impunity.
Spanish conquest :
At the time
of the Spanish conquest of Peru it served as a stronghold for Manco
Inca Yupanqui, leader of the Inca resistance. After Manco Inca was
defeated by the Spanish at Sacsayhuaman following the unsuccessful
siege of Cusco (1536) he retreated to Ollantaytambo.
Spanish general Francisco Pizarro's
younger brother Hernando led a force of 70 cavalry, 30 foot soldiers
and a large contingent of natives to capture Manco Inca. The
Inca's forces, joined by neighbouring jungle tribes, rained down
showers of arrows, spears and rocks upon the unfortunate Spanish
troops. In an intelligent move the Incas flooded the plains below
their stronghold making it difficult for the horses to manoeuvre.
Hernando, uncharacteristically, ordered a hasty retreat.
Ollantaytambo became the only place ever to have resisted attacks
from the Spanish.
However, their victory was short-lived
when the Spanish returned with four times their previous force.
Manco Inca retreated to his jungle
stronghold in Vilcabamba and Ollantaytambo fell into the hands of the
Spanish.
MOUNTAIN Apu Pinkuylluna:
This is Apu Pinkuylluna, the mountain
that towers over the town.... in the shade... it houses the
granaries....
The likeness of Viracocha -
the creator god - is carved into the sacred mountain. (We got the pic the next day from a better vantage point) Legend has it that
after Viracocha appeared on earth, he began a journey that took him
through the Sacred Valley to Ollantaytambo, and later to Machu
Picchu. To honor him, the ancient people carved his likeness into Apu
Pinkuylluna, — a bit of symbolism that the creator is “watching
over his people."
There is another story....Tunupa is a
very important figure in the Incan Mythology, a pilgrim preacher of
knowledge. Tunupa was tall, stern and poorly dressed and he wore a
bonnet like a crown on his head and carried an impressive staff as a
sign of his authority. Tunupa turned to stone in Ollantaytambo and if
we look carefully at the mountain Apu Pinkuylluna behind Apu Lodge,
we see his face in the mountainside.
MORTARLESS CONSTRUCTION:
Note how stones are aligned at edges and seamlessly fit up as walls without mortar.... defying gravity!! Also note the openings are all trapezoidal... wider at the bottom to withstand the frequent earthquakes in the region.
These nubs on the stones were for tying
a rope and levering them for moving... they were sanded off after
work completion.
SUN TEMPLE (TEMPLO DEL SOL):
The Sun Temple was constructed with huge red porphyry (pink granite) boulders.
HOW WERE THESE BOULDERS MOVED HERE?
The stone quarry is at Kachiqhata (Salt Slope) and is 4 km (2.5 miles) away on other side of the valley. The boulders were carved partially in the quarries, and taken down to the valley's bottom. To cross the river Quechuas constructed an artificial channel parallel to river bed for deviating water. While water flowed through one channel, the other was dry, stones were taken to valley's other side. The boulders were transported to the upper spot where the temple is erected using the inclined plane; its silhouette is clearly seen from the valley's bottom. They used log rollers as wheels, Llama' leather ropes, levers, pulleys, and thousands of men.
Military zone:
Temple of TEN WINDOWS seen below...
This is the Templo del Agua (WATER TEMPLE)
The sheer beauty of the site can't be seen in pics and videos. As we climb, there is a new angle from each corner and it's an awe inspiring sight!!
We left the site at 10 am and walked through the picturesque village which boasts of original Incan features everywhere.
Steps and the back entrance of Hostal Iskay... again all original features reinforced with some minor modifications for stability...
Common living area.
Kitchen for use...
Fresh yogurt set in a vessel kept in casserole to hold in warmth...this is our room ledge. Plated up our food here and ate on our terrace with the Apu Mountain towering benevolently at us!!
EXPEDITION TRAIN TO AGUAS CALIENTE:
Here we are at the station to board our
train to Machu Picchu, 12.58 expedition train to Aguas Calientes. (we
had bought the tickets after emailing Perurail as the site did not
work for us).
Beautiful coaches with glass in the ceiling too!
Beautiful coaches with glass in the ceiling too!
Lovely trip, our seats were on the
preferred left side along the river. It's the most expensive train ride in the world priced per km... not that we cared! There is no road to Aguas Caliente. Train is the only option if we can't do the Inca trail!
AGUAS CALIENTE (PUEBLO MACHU PICCHU)
At Aguas Calientes .. greeted by our Adelas Hostal girl...literal translation: aguas=waters; caliente=hot
Waiting for the train to move, so we
can cross over to our hotel which is right across...yes, the train tracks are right in the middle of the road, I guess kids are careful not to be in the way when a train chugs in!
Adela's Hostal river view room.
River view... by night the flow had increased... there was such a huge noise of rushing water as we slept... amazing!!
We had some food and then went out for a walk.
Aguas Calientes has been renamed Pueblo Machu
Picchu now. The town center is pretty...
Trapezoidal niche...Inti(sun) in the middle flanked by 2 Incan Crosses above the niche...
Note the Andean cross grill below...
ANDEAN CROSS: Also called CHAKANA in the Quechua language and INCA CROSS. It is thought to represent Pachamama or the Mother Earth. The Chakana is a three-stepped cross, similar to meaning to the Tree of Life and the World Tree in other mythologies.
In the ancient times, an Inca shaman journeyed through the central axis, in a trance, to the lower plane or the Underworld and to the higher levels, inhabited by the superior Gods, to find out the reasons for misfortunes on the Earth level.
Road leading to Machu Picchu starts here.
We walked to the main plaza with this fountain again with the Inca Pachacutec...took many pics from all angles to assimilate all the Incan inputs. In Quechua Pachakutiq means "he who shakes the earth".
Visited the church also.
Napoleon's hat flowers.
Condor perched on a medallion with
Inti and the Inca calendar.
The Inca calendar had 12 months of 30
days, with each month having its own festival of the agricultural cycle., and a five day feast
at the end, before the new year began. The Incan year started in
December, and began with Capac Raymi, the magnificent festival. Inca
had a calendar based on the observation of both the Sun and the Moon,
and their relationship to the stars. Names of 12 lunar months are
recorded, as well as their association with festivities of the
agricultural cycle.
Statue of Pachacutec again...
Here's a Stone figure with snake, puma and
condor and other symbols sacred to Incans.
The town is lovely...
We wanted to catch the 5.30 am first bus to Machu Picchu. We bought the bus tickets from the office in this market and retired early. Slept to the sound of rushing waters singing a lullaby!
Next post is at:
https://adventuretrav.blogspot.com/2017/06/peru-trip-report-day-4-machu-picchu_13.html
Next post is at:
https://adventuretrav.blogspot.com/2017/06/peru-trip-report-day-4-machu-picchu_13.html
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