How to Plan an International Trip: Travel Tales and Tips : China Trip Report Day 12: Shanghai; Day 13: Day trip to Suzhou and water town Tongli

Day 12, March 27, 2018, Tuesday:

Suzhou Garden

We took the early morning flight by Shanghai airlines Guilin Shanghai at 7.15 reaching Shanghai at 9.30.

We left our Guilin hotel at 5am, reached the airport by 5.40 am. There was a huge crowd, no signboards in English. We stood in line to check in, and then went to join a long lines for security. There was a shorter line for urgent boarders, the security looked at our ticket, typed out in his translation app that we need to wait till 6.35 to approach for speedy line. Surprisingly we made it thru the regular line at that time. We boarded our flight which had a heavy tour group crowd. Shanghai was also filled with foreign tour group crowds, in contrast to their absence in the other places we had visited.

At Pudong airport we wanted to draw some money from the ATM. The one on GF caters to only local cards. Again no sign. We approached Info and learn that the ATM on 3^rd floor handles international cards. We went up and got our money. We walked toward Maglev/metro.

From Pudong airport, took the fast Maglev airport train to Longyang Rd. Station Line 2 . Maglev did not reach 450 km speed as advertised but only 300 km. We then switched to metro 2 and reached our East Nanjing road station.

We had downloaded and printed out subway maps for Shanghai, Hangzhou and Suzhou.

This is Shanghai subway map with relevant stations circled for our use

Our hotel was an easy walk through Exit 5 or 6. We had seen street view here:

http://map.qq.com/#pano=10021049141001140133100&heading=227&pitch=-3&zoom=1

Fishinn Bund Hotel:

We stayed here for 3 nights March 27-30 and found it very comfy and convenient.

As said the hotel is on Line 2 near East Nanjing Rd metro station. Exit 5 or 6 is a short walk to the hotel. Same line 2 goes directly to Shanghai Hongqiao railway station for our day trip to the beautiful Hangzhou. The previous stop is Shanghai Hongqiao International Airport for our flight back home.

People square, Tomorrow square, Shanghai museum, Jade Buddha temple are all short metro stops away. Bund is a short walk away. So great connectivity for all our purposes.

Room was fine, comfy beds, big cupboard, table etc and we appreciated the couch.

Lots of shops near by to buy stuff for us vegetarians. Bread talk at metro exit 3 has great variety of breads

Staff speak English and it was a GREAT location for staying

We checked in and then took the metro to Yuyuan station. From there it was a confusing walk. Signs were quite misleading. We knew the garden closes at 4.30 and had to give up trying to reach it.

The classic square is pretty and terribly crowded

The guy in this shop started at us long and hard, then came over and asked which country are we from!!

Our plan had been to go to the Bund next. The Bund is at a walkable distance from our hotel. We thought it may be a better idea to go to the Shanghai main station and buy our day trip tickets. The station is on line 1 the red line and we went there.

We had planned a day trip to Suzhou and water town Tongli one day and Hangzhou on another day from Shanghai.

I had already got the timings of suitable trains from the ctrip site for all our day trips and noted return trip timings as well,

For example,

Shanghai-Suzhou

G7076 6.21 32 Min $6.24 (2nd class); 9.40 (1st cl)

G 7034 6.54 44 min

G7002 7.00 25 min

G 7004 8.00 25 min

G 7268 8.05 32 m

G 7206 8.25 41 M

Then,

SUZHOU to Shanghai

G 7243 18.06 25m, $6.25

G 7021 18.15 26m

D 955 18.21 32m; $4.04 (2ND CLASS)

G 7207 18.26 41m

G 7239 18.36 35m

G 7267 18.41 37m

G 7083 18.58 46m

G 7247 19.06 44m;

G 7023 19.14 25m;

G 7285 19.21 46M

G 7065 19.41 44M

G 7097 20.08 36M

We showed our choices at the counter and also our passports and bought the return tickets for Suzhou day trip for the next day 28th. We also bought Shanghai Hongqiao to Hangzhou East and return tickets also for the 29th.

The station can sell tickets for trains starting at another station in the city. The counter girl said our option of 7am train has only standing room tickets. We opted for 6.54 train which had seats!

This saved us so much time and energy on the day of travel.

We went straight back to our hotel and called it a day as we had an early train to catch the next day (6.54 am).

This is the hot n happening square near our hotel...

Day 13, March 28, 2018, Wednesday:

We took the metro to Shanghai train station,

showed our tickets and ID at the entrance, got into the station. Looked for our waiting room and then boarded our train.

Suzhou:

We landed at our station in Suzhou. 84 Km from Shanghai, 38 min by D trains

Founded in around 600 B.C., Suzhou is one of the oldest towns in the Yangtze basin, the city is referred to as the Venice of the East.

Suzhou was one of the few cities in China to escape the ravages of Mao Zedong's Cultural Revolution and its famous gardens survived almost intact. Zhouzhuang's simple, well-preserved architecture dates back more than 900 years. The majority of residences were built in the Ming and Qing dynasties, and nearly 100 classic courtyards and 60 carved-brick archways are still in use.

In this water village, locals live their life on the waterways, continuing to carry out everyday activities on the water, from washing clothes to shopping from vendors in boats.

Suzhou Railway Station is just on the north bank of the northern moat. It is about 2.2 miles (3.5 kilometers) to the city center, 1.3 miles (2 kilometers) to the Humble Administrator's Garden and 8.4 miles (13.5 kilometers) to the North Railway Station.

North Square
There is a long-distance bus station on the west side of North Square which operates coaches to Tongli, Wuzhen, Zhouzhuang,

South Square
It is right facing the Suzhou Ancient City. Passengers can have a close look of the ancient city once getting out of the terminal to this square. And take taxi to humble admin garden 2 km away, Take bus no. 40 or 313 and get off at Beiyuanlu Station.

There are five tourist buses connecting most sights in the city: 游1–游5 (or Y1–Y5: 游, pinyin you, pronounced “yo”, means 'tour'). These air-conditioned buses are usually CNY 2/person, but every March, April, October, and November they only charge CNY 1.

The taxi boarding stand of South Square is also on B1. There are clear direction boards showing its location upon arrival.

Tips:
1. As roads around the station are one-way, passengers going westward and southward are advised to board a taxi at the south square while those going eastward and northward board a taxi at the north square. Otherwise, there will be a detour of about 1.9 miles (3 kilometers).
2. The south square and north square are connected by an underground passage.

At Suzhou train station we followed bus signs but could not see any line pertaining to us. So we came back to the station, followed taxi sign to the SOUTH square and got one. showed him 拙政园 Humble Administrator's Garden (Zhuo Zheng Yuan) and he dropped us there in 10 minutes, 25 CNY by meter.

Humble Administrator's Garden Zhuo zheng yuan 卓正远:

March 1 to November 15: 07:30 to 17:30 CNY 70

Travelers can take the bus No. 40 (west line) and get off at Beiyuan Road, the 3rd stop. Then walk about 220 yards to get there. Passengers who take Tourist Bus No. 2 can get off at Suzhou Museum and then walk about 470 yards to get there. The bus duration is around 30 minutes. Taking a taxi would take about 15 minutes and the taxi fare is around CNY15-20.

Suzhou Great Four Gardens are all UNESCO World Heritage sites - Humble Administrator's Garden Zhuo Zheng Yuan 拙政园, the Lion Forest Garden 狮子林; Shizilin (close by near the museum), the Lingering Garden 留园; Liuyuan, the Garden of the Master of the Nets 网师园; Wangshiyuan

Humble Administrator's Garden is the most famous and the biggest.

These are Taihu rock sculptures

Water feature is the main background and its natural landscape includes small forests, hills and rock formations. It also has man-made pavilions, halls and parlors. Ming Dynasty building style.

There are bonsai shows in the aptly named Bonsai Garden (Penjing Yuan)

The garden consists of Eastern, Central and Western sections as well as some residences of the former owners.

The exhibitions have some nice paintings

After a stroll there, we decided to miss the others as we had been a little underwhelmed. The flowers had all been in pots and not very innovatively displayed. We had seen much better displays in other public spaces through out China, clever topiaries etc and were surprised at how little this UNESCO heritage site offers

Also we were not too impressed with the taihu sculptures we had seen at Beijing imperial gardens, so the Lion forest garden would not have been the fit for us. .

Ancient canal, Pingjiang Road 平江路:

We walked by the famous ancient canal Pingjiang Road 平江路. It was just OK.

Nice camellia tree in a private yard (as reader Joe points out in the comments)

We walked to the bus terminal (there are bilingual sign boards),

showed Suzhou train station in chinese 苏州火车站 Sūzhōu huǒchē zhàn to guys looking at the board and they pointed us to the right bus and said it's the 4th stop.

Very easy and pleasant communication with helpful strangers with few spoken words, few written and a lot of gestures and smiles !!

Got down at the train station,

Water town Tongli:

Water towns near Suzhou are Zhouzhuang, Tongli and Nanxun, which are three out of Jiangnan Six Great Ancient Towns. Seeing one water town is enough. Zhouzhuang and Tongli are just 40 minutes drive away from Suzhou. Nanxun is about 1 1/2 hours drive away from downtown Suzhou.

Zhouzhuang is the biggest with great reputation and Tongli is the most popular one with foreigners due to its typical scenery and less crowds. Nanxun is the most recommended by westerners living in China thanks to its cool buildings and long history. We chose Tongli for ease of visit.

In the Suzhou train station, we went to the metro and rode subway Line 4 right to the last station Tongli,

At the metro station bought the ticket to the ancient town at the counter and they offered us a free shuttle and put us on it. the shuttle left us at the entrance of the ancient city.

TONGLI 同里; 同里古镇Tónglǐ gǔzhèn /tong-lee goo-jnn/ tongli ancient town:

RMB 100 / person Entry

Located 25 km from Suzhou, on the eastern shore of Taihu Lake.

Tongli is “Oriental Venice” with its more than 1000-year-old history, authentic features of old buildings ancient structures from Song, Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties, rich old rivers.

Tongli water town is a 'museum of ancient architectures' as there are many houses and temples dating from the Ming and Qing Dynasties (1368-1911).

Built along the riversides and decorated with flying eaves, carved windows, porcelain furniture, figured clay bricks, dapper gardens and small stairs leading down to the water,

We toured around with our map and notes,

There were some lovely antiques and interiors

Terrific ceramic pillar and vase

Wood carvings

This is the Pearl Tower

Forty-nine stone bridges in a variety of styles join the seven islands created by fifteen rivers and five lakes upon which Tongli Town stands.

Each bridge has a name and these examples will give you an idea of the poetic nature of the inhabitants. The most notable are Peace and Tranquility Bridge (Tai ping Bridge), Luck Bridge (Jili Bridge) and Lasting Celebration Bridge (Changqing Bridge). These are known as Ternate Bridges as they cross three rivers at their confluence and form a natural ring road.

Taiping Bridge was built during the reign of emperor Jiaqing of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911); Jili Bridge is an arch bridge and inscribed with age-old couplets describing the beautiful painting-like views at either end; Changqing Bridge, also named Guangli Bridge, was originally constructed in 1470 and rebuilt by Xiezhen in 1704. Ternate Bridges are propitious symbols in the eyes of the local residents and they walk over them for good luck during wedding or birthday parties.